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Old 09-18-2006, 11:46 AM   #1
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Prelude of the Month
Beginners guide to H22 Engine Modifications PT. 2

BOLT ON's

Bolt on performance parts consist of things like a header, intake, exhaust, intake manifold...etc. Pretty much anything on the outside of the engine is a bolt on. Bolt on's are only as good as the money you put into them. Don't want to spend much? Well then dont expect much power. It sucks, but thats the truth. If you really want to make REAL power with bolt on's, you must break your wallet. These quality (sometimes custom) parts are not for everyone. If you are just wanting to buy a header to buy it and say you have a header, megan racing makes decent products...kinda but are VERY easy on the wallet. I'm a quality guy myself, so megan and all those other products are worth didly squat to me.
A very cheap bolt on setup might go like this:
stock intake and K&N filter with all resonators and baffles removed, stock header, Magnaflow cat, Apex'i WSII or RSR exhaust
all that can be aquired for under 1000 dollars. It will sound good and look good. You will gain slight performance, but this setup is mostly for people who dont want to waste money.

A bolt on setup geared towards performance might go something like this:

AEM cold air intake, BPi flowstack and filter, Ported and port matched Euro R intake manifold, 68-70mm Throttle body, RMF/SMSP/Hytech/SSR custom header, test pipe, 2.5" exhaust (3" for more power)
this setup will cost around 2000 dollars and will likely be loud and obnoxious. The headers listed are all in the price range of 850 to 1000+ a piece.

Intakes and filters:
an intake is an intake
------i used to believe this statement. But i dont anymore. Well let me rephrase that. An intake is an intake if you are planning on buying a regular ole intake like the AEM v1. If you are looking at the AEM V2, which is a nice intake and serves a purpose, there are ways to get the same effect as the V2 but not hurt you wallet as much. The V2 is a good intake, its just too expensive for my taste. It's purpose is to increase flow, allow for less resistance which in turn increases power. I have a simple and cheaper solution which has been tested. It's called the BPi Flow stack.
My review can be found here:
http://preludepower.com/forums/showt...ight=flowstack
Here's a word from Bryan Pendleton, engineer of the flowstack
Quote:
A velocity stack benefits automotive applications for two main reasons.

1) Is the abillity to tweak and alter the air velocity profile and air velocities. Now this is a big benefit in ITB applications and various other racing applications, but as you did mention most of these benefits are dampened due to intake length and a plenum manifold.

2) The next major benefit is through the prevention of seperation at the entrance. The entrance of your intake can cause a significant head loss or loss of energy. These effectively creates a choke, due to the turbulent vortices and eddies created at the entrance. The severity of this head loss is dependant on the internal geometry of your filter, but can represent a significant restriction. Due to the nature of turbulent flow, you cannot calculate losses analytically, but experimental data has been provided to correlate to. We can estimate head loss (ie. how restrictive) of the entrance geometry based on emperical data that exists. If we dig up head loss coefficents for plan ended pipe, square shoulder entrance and a radius entrance they are as follows: .78, .5 and .2-.04 (depending on radius) respectively. So head loss can be reduced by a factor of nearly 20 by running a stack over plan ended pipe.
Reference: Potter & Foss, Fluid Mechanics. Or you can run a search for head loss for viscous internal flow.
Interesting enough though, I just received some results from a customer with a 85mm B motor, that compared a Injen Velocity Stack Filter and the BPi Flow Stack. Gains of 2-3 ft-lb through almost the entire engine operating range. I will post us the result in the next several days or so.
This intake setup can be had for around 150 dollars, which is about a 100 dollars cheaper than the V2. Use that 100 bux and take your girl out or something

The everlasting Header debate:

There are MANY headers out for our motors. But there are not many that actually do what they are intended. These headers consist of a stock-like design. These designs included: Dc sports, Megan, OBX and all the other Ebay crap. As they are designed like the stock header, they do not gain much on our motors. If you are just wanting something cheap and dont care about the power, these are your best choices. Dc sports and Megan are fairly comparable in quality however the Megan header is much cheaper. I would never suggest anyone to get OBX products. I have never believed in their product and never will.
Now, on to better exhaust manifolds, the next step up. There arent many in this category that you can get new anymore, but some of them consist/consisted of Prospeed, ANR, Kteller (custom). Some other non custom header are mugen and T1r. I havent heard many reviews about the T1r product but i hear they are very nice and also cost a pretty penny. Same goes for the mugen header. If you have the money to purchase these headers, then you might want to look into buying a custom header which i will talk about now.
RMF/SMSP/Hytech/SSR all make the best H22's headers, they range from 850 to 1000+ dollars and usually have a long wait to get one. Which one you end up going with is all a matter of who you like more honestly. I chose RMF because of his original designs and knowing his background. Whenever one of these products gets mentioned, there is usually a big debate on which one is better blah blah blah, but i honestly think they all make the same amounts of power.
I wont go into more advanced stuff like exhaust pulsing, the use of merge collectors and scavenging in this post simply because this is a BASIC intro after all and i'm not fluent on that topic.

Exhaust
Deciding on an exhaust really depends on your goals and if you are aiming for performance or whether you just want an exhaust that sounds good.
I'll start off talking about the mild exhaust setups that are more for sound and retaining that overall stock look.....kinda, lol.
Chambered exhausts like the Apex'i WSII, RSR EXMAG are quiet and relatively stock looking granted the polished piping and different muffler. They are chambered which means the exhaust is quiet. The chambers in the muffler slows down the velocity of the exhaust which in effect restricts power.
Straight through exhausts like the Apex'i N1, Tanabe Racing Medallion and so forth are just that. They do not have the chambers to hold back the exhaust flow. These exhaust typically will gain more power and allow for the other parts on the engine to work more efficiently.
In all honesty, the greatest exhaust is going to be one that you make yourself. Here's an example. www.kteller.com sells exhaust piping kits for our cars, even full exhaust that sound decent. But you can build your own.
For instance, 2.5" exhaust piping with two magnaflow resonators. With that you could buy pretty much any muffler you wanted and the sound would be pretty decent for a 2.5 exhaust. There's all sorts of combinations you can do when making your own. Thats what makes it so nice. Don't have the tools to put it together? A muffler shop can do that for you.


High Flow Catalytic Converter and Test Pipe
I am a relatively environmentally friendly guy so i'm always going to suggest a high flow cat over a test pipe. A high flow cat still has the capability to catch all the bad gasses that would pollute the air in its absense. A test pipe is just a straight pipe that replaces the cat. There are two kinds. Resonated and non resonated. The resonated test pipes are basically just resonators to keep the noise down while acting as a straight pipe. Test pipes do not catch the pollutants, however they do gain more power than high flow cats. How much? I dont know. I doubt its that much more, but every little bit helps. Test pipes make the exhaust VERY VERY loud, but some people dont mind it.

Tuning:
There are a few ways to gain extra power through tuning the ecu or manipulating it to work in your favor
The most basic tune is the VAFC, however, this is considered a hack in the tuning world as it is lieing to the ecu.
Here is an article by David Blunder, the creator of PGMFI.org, explaining what a VAFC really does.
http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/view/...PiggybacksSuck
A vafc does not have the ability to manipulate the ignition timing indepently. Fuel tuning, which all the vafc is capable of (besides changing the vtec crossover), will only do so much. Tuning the ignition timing is how the real power is made. I would only suggest going the VAFC route if you have very mild bolt on's and dont plan on going any farther.
The Vafc is a pretty decent option for the SH ludes considering there isnt much out there that would allow the ATTS to still be functional. I believe the greddy emanage and AFC's can be used with them and still have a functional atts system.

There is a solution to those who want a more complete tune; there are programs like Crome, Hondata, Neptune, Uberdata, etc which use the stock ecu as a basis. These programs are setup to where you can change nearly everything about how the engine runs without having any problems with the stock coding of the ecu. These programs require OBDI Ecu's which are from 92-95 model years that have been socketed to accept an aftermarket eeprom chip that stores most of the ecu's memory. These programs can independently adjust the ignition, fuel, vtec crossover, cold start fuel, rev limiters and MUCH much more.
Here are some links to helpful tuning sites:
www.pgmfi.og
www.phearable.net
www.evans-tuning.com
www.efi101.com
www.hondata.com
www.tunewithcrome.com

Other tuning solutions involve standalone engine management systems which completely replace the factory ecu. These ecu's have the ability to control pretty much anything and everything you would want to control. You can even add things to the program to monitor or adjust.
These programs include:
AEM EMS, Haltech, Motec, F.A.S.T.
There are a few more but thats what i got off the top of my head.

________________________________________
OK, still not finished...sorry guys. I'm trying to make this as basic as i can.
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Old 09-18-2006, 12:42 PM   #2
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Nice info, as always blake.
I don't know what I'd do with out you! haha
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Old 09-18-2006, 12:49 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2.2L View Post
High Flow Catalytic Converter and Test Pipe
I am a relatively environmentally friendly guy so i'm always going to suggest a high flow cat over a catalytic converter. A high...
Typo? did you mean test pipe?
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Old 09-18-2006, 12:59 PM   #4
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Nice info.... we should create a thread like this for me and the rest of the turbo guys.
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Old 09-18-2006, 02:13 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by shinjimae View Post
Typo? did you mean test pipe?
yes, thank you for reading everything and finding mistakes
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Old 09-18-2006, 02:20 PM   #6
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Nice info, as always blake.
I don't know what I'd do with out you! haha
prolly find some other schmuck......
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Old 09-18-2006, 02:41 PM   #7
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awesome, now every new header and exhaust thread can have a link to this thread and be locked

great info
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Old 09-18-2006, 05:59 PM   #8
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im going to finish it later tonight. Got a night off work, goin out to eat, then trying out the paint scheme on my stock wheels to get an idea of how its gonna look with the new wheels.
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Old 09-18-2006, 06:20 PM   #9
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Could anyone tell me where I could get a nice resonated test pipe, then? I'm tired of my exhaust being loud as all hell. Previous owner hollowed out the catalytic converter.
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Old 09-18-2006, 06:35 PM   #10
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Could anyone tell me where I could get a nice resonated test pipe, then? I'm tired of my exhaust being loud as all hell. Previous owner hollowed out the catalytic converter.
ebay has them.
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Old 09-19-2006, 12:17 AM   #11
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more added.
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Old 09-20-2006, 10:33 AM   #12
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E-bay is always the best place to start.
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Old 09-20-2006, 10:42 AM   #13
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not really. Ebay is full of junk. Every now and then you can find decent parts.
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Old 09-20-2006, 08:28 PM   #14
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Good to know
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Old 09-23-2006, 03:44 AM   #15
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I'm pretty doubtful on the BPI flow stack..... seems like another gimmick to me.
And $50 for a rubber adapter seems pretty pricy for something that looks like you could make yourself
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Old 09-23-2006, 09:48 AM   #16
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I'm pretty doubtful on the BPI flow stack..... seems like another gimmick to me.
And $50 for a rubber adapter seems pretty pricy for something that looks like you could make yourself
you think its a gimmick because you dont understand fluid dynamics, thermodynamics, or physics.

If you dont think its worth it, dont buy it.
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Old 09-25-2006, 07:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
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you think its a gimmick because you dont understand fluid dynamics, thermodynamics, or physics.

If you dont think its worth it, dont buy it.
I have a basic understanding of those concepts (I'm studying mechanical engineering, plus I'd read textbooks about that shit ever since I was 6), and I realize how well it works and that sheer volume is not the only concern to consider when looking at an intake charge, I am simply wondering whether or not this mod really is worth those 50 extra bucks, I'll probably wait to see your dyno graphs, besides, I should probably get an exhaust first anyway.
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Old 09-25-2006, 07:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
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you think its a gimmick because you dont understand fluid dynamics, thermodynamics, or physics.

If you dont think its worth it, dont buy it.
Hurry up and get your butt on a dyno so we can see the results.

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Old 09-25-2006, 08:07 PM   #19
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Hurry up and get your butt on a dyno so we can see the results.
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Old 09-28-2006, 09:13 PM   #20
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Good begginner info but someone should go into deeper modifications like cams, ignition, fueling, pulleys, and maybe porting.
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Old 09-28-2006, 09:48 PM   #21
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Good begginner info but someone should go into deeper modifications like cams, ignition, fueling, pulleys, and maybe porting.

i could go into that, but that would be one hell of a long post....
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Old 09-28-2006, 11:56 PM   #22
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Good begginner info but someone should go into deeper modifications like cams, ignition, fueling, pulleys, and maybe porting.
No offense to you or anything, but stuff like that is usually pretty general, there's just a few specifics that pertain to certain cars. What you need to do is get some good textbooks on this stuff and study them until you understand it. Once you feel you have a good general understanding of this info, you just need to learn a few more basic things before you can apply it directly to an H22. This is a great place to learn all kinds of stuff about Ludes, and Blake is one of our most informative posters, he's written quite a few tech articles for us already. He's also a really good resource if you've got alot of in-depth questions. Yet a detailed yet general overview of basically how an internal combustion engine works and an explanation of what every single common NA mod does and why it works is a little beyond the scope of a single post. Now don't get me wrong, he understands all this shit better than just about all of the rest of us on here, but you can't expect him to write you a textbook. His car is heavily modified for an NA Lude, sure, but that's not why he knows all this stuff. Throwing money and parts at your Lude won't really teach you that much about it. My car's engine is stock save a K&N drop-in filter, and not to brag, but I would say I have at least a basic understanding of internal combustion engines in general, as well as many of their modifications. Its b/c I look for tech. articles on the internet, buy/borrow and actually read textbooks, read and re-read the complicated tech. articles in car magazines no matter how cryptic they may seem at first, and then surf quality forums (such as this one) and ask questions. Oh, and I do read everything 2.2L writes, haha. But you'll get a much better understanding of what's actually going on if you first read some books, I personally recommend the Sport Compact Car Engine & Driveline Handbook, its on Amazon as well as most major bookstores. There's also some good Honda specific tuning books, read those and follow the builds as well. Once you've got that down, go read everything in PGMFI.org's library and check out the forums. Then, everything Blake posts will make alot more sense and he can help apply it to H22's specifically. Don't get me wrong, I'm not hating on you, and this is basically directed at everyone, and Blake is of course a great resource, but nothing can really replace reading those textbooks and tech. articles back and forth until you actually understand them. Then, talking to experts is so much more helpful. 2.2L has posted alot of great general as well as H22-specific info, and he may one day focus on a general overview like you stated, but even if he doesn't, the info is still out there. He's still just as much of a student as you or I, he learned everything he knows, and so can you. Good luck and if you keep at it, you'll get it. It's alot of fun to learn about this stuff, enjoy!

BTW, this-> http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/ <- will give you some good tech. articles to get started on while you wait for some books to come in. Even try checking out your library, they should have some good stuff as well. Good luck!
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Old 10-26-2006, 08:11 AM   #23
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I have a basic understanding of those concepts (I'm studying mechanical engineering, plus I'd read textbooks about that shit ever since I was 6), and I realize how well it works and that sheer volume is not the only concern to consider when looking at an intake charge, I am simply wondering whether or not this mod really is worth those 50 extra bucks, I'll probably wait to see your dyno graphs, besides, I should probably get an exhaust first anyway.
We have quit a few data sets for the Honda applications (1 on which is an H22). All the dyno testing was performed by 3rd party dyno facilities and the car's owners. I say this to give confidence that the data is not biased or "doctored" to be favorable for BPi.

As for worth, that is something only you can determine. Keep in mind though that gains, while not large in magnitude, are present throughout the engines whole operating range, which cannot be said for all "breathing" modifications.
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Old 10-26-2006, 08:49 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by BryanPendleton View Post
We have quit a few data sets for the Honda applications (1 on which is an H22). All the dyno testing was performed by 3rd party dyno facilities and the car's owners. I say this to give confidence that the data is not biased or "doctored" to be favorable for BPi.

As for worth, that is something only you can determine. Keep in mind though that gains, while not large in magnitude, are present throughout the engines whole operating range, which cannot be said for all "breathing" modifications.
wow, never thought i would see you here

btw, i tested yours on my car when i dynoed this past weekend. Just waiting on the run files to be emailed to me.
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Old 11-07-2006, 01:12 AM   #25
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umm so how come i never see things like this on sfpoa.net or am i not looking hard enough
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