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Old 07-28-2016, 12:42 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by cudaboy View Post
They look beefy! So a "TT" construction on the ends? with pipe connecting them?
The ends are T shaped. The vertical part is 1/4" and the horizontal laid over the top is 1/8". The center is solid 7/8" (22mm) 4130 rod.
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Old 08-02-2016, 07:16 PM   #52
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awesome job...looks good.
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Old 08-04-2016, 01:49 AM   #53
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Was asking what diameter, didn't realise you had already responded in a separate post. Any plans to produce a batch for sale? And do you think you would have to reinforce the sway bar mounting points for this? I know some 4Gs have had to reinforce theirs to accommodate for the greater forces with a larger rear bar.
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Old 08-05-2016, 03:01 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Austro View Post
Was asking what diameter, didn't realise you had already responded in a separate post. Any plans to produce a batch for sale? And do you think you would have to reinforce the sway bar mounting points for this? I know some 4Gs have had to reinforce theirs to accommodate for the greater forces with a larger rear bar.
I haven't had any problems with the current 22mm bar so I don't think these will rip anything.

I might do some kind of swaybar kit in the future. But it would be a different design that uses pre-made splined torsion bars.
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Old 09-24-2016, 10:41 PM   #55
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Talking

Got the anti-roll bars power coated and installed. Here is the finished product:







Going with black for as many parts as I can to keep the stealth look.

I also replaced the brake master cylinder as it had given up last time I drove it.
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Old 12-13-2016, 08:28 PM   #56
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Got a hold of all the stuff I need to convert the belts to non-USDM:
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Old 12-13-2016, 09:58 PM   #57
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Sweet! I'm very jealous.
Looks like you got the sills too, going to delete that extra clasp/pin thing thing?
I was thinking of leaving mine in when I convert. Those are the only parts I'm missing.
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Old 12-13-2016, 10:07 PM   #58
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Love the look of the powder coated pieces. I have been looking for a local powder coater, there are exactly none. I might just have to build a small powder coat shop so I can do it...so torn...
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Old 12-13-2016, 10:21 PM   #59
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Sweet! I'm very jealous.
Looks like you got the sills too, going to delete that extra clasp/pin thing thing?
I was thinking of leaving mine in when I convert. Those are the only parts I'm missing.
Yeah I'm taking those out as well. I've got some JDM replica door sills to install and they wont work with the USDM sills.



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Love the look of the powder coated pieces. I have been looking for a local powder coater, there are exactly none. I might just have to build a small powder coat shop so I can do it...so torn...
There must be some place? Any place that builds things out of metal will be getting stuff powder coated now and then, you could try asking a place like that.
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Old 12-14-2016, 11:36 AM   #60
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There must be some place? Any place that builds things out of metal will be getting stuff powder coated now and then, you could try asking a place like that.[/QUOTE]

Local guy closed down a couple years ago, no biz...next closest is 50-60 miles away...am asking but it just might be cheaper and easier to build myself a small setup...do it for myself, maybe help a few others then sell the entire thing...those are my thoughts...
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Old 01-11-2017, 12:41 PM   #61
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Just caught up on with the videos you have up on youtube. Ever consider doing a 4ws swap video? that would be awesome. Thank you for all the work you do for the community!

Still lovin my short shifter man.
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Old 01-13-2017, 02:03 AM   #62
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Just caught up on with the videos you have up on youtube. Ever consider doing a 4ws swap video? that would be awesome. Thank you for all the work you do for the community!

Still lovin my short shifter man.
Yeah I might, if I ever get another 4WS system to swap.
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Old 04-16-2017, 10:09 PM   #63
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Maybe I will actually get around to converting those belts sometime...


Anyways, my crappy Four Seasons rebuilt compressor died last year and I'm not keen on paying the huge premium for another (rebuilt) 3G lude compressor. (They are $308 on Rockauto.)


I'm going to try and fit the compressor from a 1G CR-V, which also came on some other Hondas so it is cheap and common (It is a Sanden TRS090 type). I bought a brand new Denso unit for only $210! Rockauto had other brands for only $140.

Anyways here are some pictures of step one, adapting the compressor to an 88-89 alternator/compressor bracket:






The Prelude bolts are too long so I still need to get some from a CR-V. Next step is the more annoying one as I will have to braze/adapt the ends from the CR-V compressor lines onto the Prelude lines. I will also (probably) need to do the wiring conversion to use a single wire compressor.
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Old 04-18-2017, 10:13 PM   #64
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Neat. I'm surprised the suction and discharge ports are different sized from the Prelude.

Hopefully that compressor is more efficient than the Prelude one as well? I haven't had working A/C in a Prelude since forever, but I remember it feeling like the car lost 30hp whenever the clutch engaged. Newer cars are so much better in that regards.
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Old 04-19-2017, 02:05 AM   #65
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hmm seems interesting. I got a reman from ebay. I have a spare bracket for 90-91 on my spare engine. I wonder what the similarities are between the 90-91 stock sanden tr70 turborotor is and the sanden tr90 in the crv? I will install the reman this year finally. I did buy a field coil from honda and the bearing plus an aftermarket shim kit for the clutch and a stock oem honda shim kit.
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Old 04-19-2017, 01:59 PM   #66
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The TR70 and TR090 are very similar size wise. But the line fittings, bolt pattern, and # of pulley ribs are different.
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Old 04-21-2017, 09:31 PM   #67
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Some more info.

Line O.D. sizes:
CR-V: Suction 5/8" - Discharge 1/2"
Prelude: Suction 9/16" - Discharge 1/2"
Wall thickness ~1/16"

Here are the stock lines attached to the TR70:


Here are the stock lines on my CR-V attached to the TR090:



As you can see the CR-V lines exit the fittings in the wrong place. I got lucky because the other end of the CR-V discharge line (left) has the exact same fitting, only it exits on the opposite side, meaning it will line up real good with the Prelude line.



The CR-V suction fitting is what will take the most work. I cut it off flush with the top of the fitting then cut a 90 degree bend out of another portion of the suction line and here is where I'm at with that:


Connecting the Prelude discharge line to the CR-V discharge fitting will be easy because I can use a bit of the 5/8" suction line slipped over each end, kind of like this:



I practiced brazing lines together with some of the spare bits from the discharge and suction lines but each time the filler would crack down the middle as it cooled. So I think I'm just going to go with my original plan and TIG weld them. I did another test and it welds fine:





Here is a comparison of the 88-89 (right) and 90-91 (left) A/C brackets. You can see the 90-91 has the compressor mount surface raised/further from block so it would provide much less room to make an adapter. I'll be sticking with the 88-89 bracket for this conversion.



Also here are some pictures showing the TR70 and TR090 side by side:

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Old 04-21-2017, 10:34 PM   #68
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Great info. Thanks Dave! Yeah if I ever see another prelude at the yard I might get the bracket if it is an 88-89. From what I remember from like 10 years ago was there wasn't a lot of room for ratchet on the tr70 bolts. Both my brackets would be the same. One is for the spare b20a5 but it came out of 90-91. The other being the stock b21a1 in it.
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Old 04-22-2017, 11:14 PM   #69
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I've been searching around and I believe our condensers have been discontinued on the aftermarket. Major outlets don't seem to have them and I just bought one on closeout off ebay (This project is starting to break the bank!). If you don't have a new one already you may want to snatch one up while you can.

I have flush and a flusher for all the other components coming. I'm going to tear the whole thing apart, flush all the lines, and replace all the O-rings. It's also getting a new dryer, expansion valve, and AC thermostat.

I also found a filter made just for the TR090 suction line. (The joys of having good support):


For the discharge side I found this universal inline filter:


I'll be installing that one before the condenser as it will hopefully keep debris out of it if I ever have another compressor failure.
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Old 04-29-2017, 09:53 PM   #70
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After test fitting with the original adapter I felt the compressor was too low and far away from the block. I redesigned the bracket today and here is what the new one looks like:






Tomorrow I will make a heat shield for the compressor and get this adapter painted and installed on the car. After that I will start adapting the Prelude lines to fit it.
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Old 04-30-2017, 08:12 PM   #71
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Got the compressor installed today:





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Old 05-06-2017, 08:21 PM   #72
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I've finished adapting the Prelude lines to the TRS090:




I was wrong about the Prelude discharge line, it's not 1/2". It's actually 12mm which means the fittings on that universal filter wouldn't work. So I skipped them and welded the body right to the discharge line. It still unscrews in the middle so I can get to the filter screen.


Tomorrow is pulling every single component and flushing them.
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Old 05-13-2017, 12:10 PM   #73
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I got this conversion finished yesterday and the A/C is working great!





Here are the tutorial videos showing how to do it:

Part 1: https://youtu.be/8YwUKV0IR9s
Part 2: https://youtu.be/MaHLhNM7KNw
Part 3: https://youtu.be/vHeX154tLd8




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Old 06-02-2017, 05:18 PM   #74
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Cleaned the bay and deleted the antenna:






For those who were wondering about HP loss with this A/C compressor engaged, I tested that today by turning it on during acceleration. I didn't really notice a difference TBH. I'm sure this compressor is more efficient but it could also be because I'm using Envirosafe (propane) refrigerant which runs with lower pressures than R12 or R134a, so maybe the compressor just isn't having to work very hard.
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Old 06-26-2017, 01:10 AM   #75
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Talking

I did a thing!




Finally installed the Canadian belts. It was more work than I anticipated and involved some fabrication. (Might have involved a 1 3/4" hole saw as well, but you didn't hear that from me. It ALSO might have involved the discovery that Honda doesn't use metric threads for the retractor mount bolts... wtf Honda?)


However if you install the Canadian belts before removing the USDM belts you will find yourself in this hilarious situation:



After I got rid of the USDM sills I was able to install my JDM reproduction sills:





This last winter really killed my exhaust. Water pools in this one section and since I only drive the car occasionally it ate through it real quick:



I'm planning on doing a 2.5" stainless exhaust sometime in the future so I decided to do a dirty patch job for now:

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