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Old 01-09-2011, 04:43 PM   #151
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Stupid question. I assume if the auto tensioner fails completely then it is bye bye to the engine. Right?
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Old 01-09-2011, 06:34 PM   #152
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yep. happened to two of my friends
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Old 01-09-2011, 06:51 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKXR View Post
Stupid question. I assume if the auto tensioner fails completely then it is bye bye to the engine. Right?
i guess i was was lucky!

no values were bent, motor was fine
but the auto tensioner was completely gone
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:14 PM   #154
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I did this 3 months ago and couldnt be happier plus the peace of mind is worth every penny !
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:51 PM   #155
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Well does this sound like a tensioner going out to you all? Here is a link to the video. The first 33 seconds or so is the car immediately after a stone cold crank. The remaining time in the video is with the engine warm. The noise is dramatically worse at normal operating temperatures.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-TpM1QOjxM
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Old 01-10-2011, 07:24 AM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKXR View Post
Well does this sound like a tensioner going out to you all? Here is a link to the video. The first 33 seconds or so is the car immediately after a stone cold crank. The remaining time in the video is with the engine warm. The noise is dramatically worse at normal operating temperatures.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-TpM1QOjxM
With the autotensioner you can usually hear a rattle or vibration if you rev it to 3,000 rpms and then let off the throttle completely and as the rpms fall you hear the rattle sound from the timing cover area. it's easiest if you operate the throttle from under the hood while listening.

That ticking sound in your video sounds more like valves that are terribly out of adjustment. Have they ever been adjusted? Mine were out of spec at 60,000 miles!
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Old 01-10-2011, 08:59 AM   #157
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Funny that you speak of valve adjustment. I suggested it to the mech. The mechanic said it didn't sound like it needed a valve adjustment. A valve adjustment I know couldn't hurt. Seeing that I have a 1997 Base that sounded bad before the adjustment and much better after it was adjusted. Then again, the car had a totally different sound than this 2001 SH.
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Old 05-22-2011, 06:00 AM   #158
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when i got the manual tensioner conversion kit it came with another piece not shown in this write-up. i'll take pics and post it up but it goes in place of the auto tensioner. it's just a a spacer plate but you can adjust the tension with it too. the piece in the middle of the pic here:

Manual Tensioner Conversion Kit

thanks JLUDE for the link
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Old 05-22-2011, 03:34 PM   #159
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Got half of the H23 manual conversion misc from my F22B1 and the other half from Majestic Honda. Best Bang for the Buck and easy as pie with engine out.
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Old 05-22-2011, 04:28 PM   #160
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Old 06-06-2011, 01:15 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth09 View Post
The smaller spring, that goes on to the right (towards the rear of the motor) is very loose on mine. The guy who installed my belt told me that since it is so loose that we can just take it off, instead of risking it falling off and damaging the timing belt. He said it is the wrong one, but it is the one that came in my kit, and also I tried my old one and it was loose also.

Has anyone ran into this?
Its funny you say that because that little damn spring came off in my car and got wedged between the timing belt and the valve cover in front of the exhaust cam gear...how it got up there????? I HAVE NO FUCKING CLUE!

it pisses me off cuz i got the t-belt job done in fall of '09 and no probs since.

BUT, i get my front tires replaced at sears last week and now this...
when I pick up my car it's all sluggish/no power, whining noises, burning rubber smells coming from engine....hmmmm....feels shady or just plain bad luck!?! AHHHH!!!!
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Old 01-27-2012, 01:27 PM   #162
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h23 manual tensioner

hey man i had a quick ? about this conversion.
i got the conversion done but i hav a lil problem the belt seems to want to come off....
any suggestions?
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Old 01-28-2012, 02:40 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayydee View Post
hey man i had a quick ? about this conversion.
i got the conversion done but i hav a lil problem the belt seems to want to come off....
any suggestions?
you should not have any slack on the belt. where is it wanting to come off at? if youre talking about slipping off the crank gear, theres a washer that sits between the and the crank pulley bolt. a picture would definetly be more helpful so that we can give you a better answer.
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Old 01-28-2012, 05:37 PM   #164
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yes, there is supposed to be a given amount of belt deflection aka slack. If there was no slack at all, the belt would be pulling up on the crank and some serious shit would go down....in time.

if the belt is trying to come off, most likely at the cam gears, you need to make sure your tensioner bolt is not bent and that the eyelet on the tensioner is seated with the nipple that screws into the block.
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:33 AM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98vtec View Post
yes, there is supposed to be a given amount of belt deflection aka slack. If there was no slack at all, the belt would be pulling up on the crank and some serious shit would go down....in time.

if the belt is trying to come off, most likely at the cam gears, you need to make sure your tensioner bolt is not bent and that the eyelet on the tensioner is seated with the nipple that screws into the block.
i only say no slack because thats what ive experienced along with a few others. with ordering all the parts from honda to convert it to a manual tensioner, i had no play at all. what i had to do was little by little, slide the belt on each pulley and cam gears. i couldnt even get the tensioner to tighten down on the belt because i had no play.

HOWEVER......on my new built motor, i was able to tighten down the tensioner. it was as normal as any other timing belt installation. i dont know what the difference was. maybe 1 belt was longer or who knows but it worked just fine. i ordered off my old invoice so all the part numbers were the same.
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:40 PM   #166
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So I'm installing a manual tensioner, and I'm having trouble with the bracket on the timing belt adjuster pulley hitting the one of bolts holding on the little bracket that's not pictured in 98vtec's write up. The bracket on the pulley is hitting the bolt and not allowing full range of motion. Which makes the timing belt way too tight. I followed the steps exactly. What could be happening here, or is this normal. Ive read people saying there has been no slack in the timing belt, but holly #### this thing is tight!

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Old 05-14-2012, 06:44 PM   #167
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I'm ditching the H23 tensioner kit I just bought from IRP, and going with the KAIZENSPEED tensioner. The H23 tensioner kit is brand spankin new! Pm me if anyone is interested.
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:33 AM   #168
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i just ordered all the parts for off page one of this thread for the conversion and my block is out being built right now, and from what im reading that makes the job infinitely easier... are there any little tricks or things to look out for while doing this or has the build on page one had all corrections made to it by now
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:38 AM   #169
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KAIZENSPEED tensioner is the way to go. Its very easy to install and ive put nearly 6000 miles on mine no problems
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Old 09-07-2012, 04:57 AM   #170
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Pictures died.
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Old 09-18-2012, 08:54 AM   #171
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What happen to all the pictures???
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Old 08-06-2014, 04:42 PM   #172
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great write up!
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Old 08-11-2014, 02:34 PM   #173
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Would Anyone happen to know Part numbers for the H22 parts taken off and re used with the conversion. Some of these weren't on my prelude when I started the conversion.

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Old 05-06-2015, 02:11 PM   #174
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Do the bolts that hold the auto tensioner in place need to be re-installed? The photo's I've seen don't show them going back but I've seen where people say that they need to because they help hold the oil pump in place.
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Old 04-17-2016, 11:23 AM   #175
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Do the bolts that hold the auto tensioner in place need to be re-installed? The photo's I've seen don't show them going back but I've seen where people say that they need to because they help hold the oil pump in place.
You install part "14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER" to the location where the autotensioner was.
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