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Old 01-29-2013, 09:56 PM   #176
fawada28
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How to: Replace Oil Cooler O-Ring

Thank you so much this saved my car for sure. God bless you and your family this was such a useful tutorial
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:57 PM   #177
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Originally Posted by fawada28 View Post
Thank you so much this saved my car for sure. God bless you and your family this was such a useful tutorial
0.o

Never thought I'd get my family blessed for replacing an o-ring, but sure!

Glad to have helped.
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:00 PM   #178
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Originally Posted by dtt02278 View Post
Question about the 30mm deep socket. I don't have one. I'm looking on eBay for one. Should I get a 6pt or a 12 pt 30 mm socket? Does it matter?
Just want to comment on this one, if a bolt is a 6pt bolt then use a 6pt socket. this ensures there are no undue pressure points on the bolt head and reduces the chances of stripping the bolt. This goes along with my warning for using the right tool for the right job in my original post.
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Old 02-14-2013, 04:09 PM   #179
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very helpful
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:09 PM   #180
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Re: How to: Replace Oil Cooler O-Ring

I have an 88 2.0Si and my oil cooler or the freeze plug that the one cooler hose goes to is starting to seep coolant. I've bought a new o-ring so I can take it apart and look at it. Could possibly be one of the steel lines of the cooler starting to corrode through and if that's the case I'll weld on some new ones. If it's the freeze plug fitting, I'm not sure what to do then. Does it thread in with an o-ring seal or is it like a normal freeze plug and just pressed in? Also, are they still available? Anybody else, ever have this problem?

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Old 03-09-2013, 03:48 PM   #181
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Re: How to: Replace Oil Cooler O-Ring

Sorry, just noticed this is 5th gen forum. Put it in 3rd gen forum.

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Old 03-15-2013, 03:41 PM   #182
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Finally changed my Oil cooler o ring while changing the oil and oil filter. I used a short socket. Worked just fine. I didnt have too much trouble putting the new o ring in and keeping on, I just had to hold it in place with my fingers and carefully lay it on. I started to engine when I was done and I do now see any leaks anymore. But I will check again next week. Thanks for the write up guys.
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:06 AM   #183
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Oil Cooler O-ring: Type SH

I hope nobody minds, but I just did this on my Type SH, so I thought I'd add the Type SH version to the writeup.

The SH takes the same o-ring as the base, so no problems there. It is probably a bit more of a PITA than the base, but in the end, it really wasn't too bad.

I went out and got my o-ring and 30mm deepwell socket:


I already had it, but a 3" extension also helps with this, as you'll see in a minute. Remove the oil filter and you can just see the oil cooler bolt behind the block.

Note: So far all of this is best done from above (but you probably already knew that).



Get your socket and 3" extension and remove the bolt. It's hard to get the socket square on the bolt, just keep rocking it around until if feels like you have good engagement. Luckily the bolt isn't super tight, even after 170k miles.



You can see the extension helps get your ratchet wrench off the back of the block.

Remove the bolt.



Pull the oil cooler back from the block. It's only attached by rubber hoses now, and they have a bit of flex. Just don't overdo it.

The next parts I found to be easier to do through the wheel well. Take off the driver's side front wheel and you'll be able to see right through to the o-ring side of the oil cooler. Remove the o-ring. You'll probably need a pick of some sort to do this, as the o-ring is hard plastic now and very difficult to remove. Just be careful not to damage the groove with your pick.



This is the view through the wheel well with the oil cooler pulled back a bit. I've already got the o-ring out.



Now I may step into it a bit here, but I highly recommend you DO NOT use gasket maker or anything like that to hold the o-ring in. Yes it'll probably work, but odds are good your o-ring leaks at least a little bit now, even if it's no longer a catastrophic leak. This is my input as a professional engineer that actually designs o-ring seals.

What I recommend instead is assembly lube:



Glob on as much as you want: it holds it well and won't affect the o-ring seal.



You can see I have the o-ring in the groove in the above picture. MAKE SURE IT IS STUCK IN THE GROOVE. Do this by pressing the oil cooler against the block where it mounts a few times. If it falls out, then the o-ring was not in the groove the whole way. If you don't have it in very well, it will slip out and you will pinch it when you put everything back together. You will find this out when you start the car up and it still gushes oil. Then you will have to buy a new o-ring and repeat the process!

Put the bolt back through the cooler and tighten to 54 lb-ft of torque. Put an oil filter back on, start it up, and check for leaks.

Allowing your cat to steal the o-ring for whatever diabolical machine it is working on is optional.





It's not the worst fix to perform, but it is a bit of a pain. Good luck!
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Old 03-27-2013, 02:22 AM   #184
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Smile Many thanks!

I had to register just to say thank you! The instructions on this post were perfect and exactly what I needed. I actually have a an 1997 Odyssey, not a prelude. The part number was the same.

Thanks!!!
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:25 PM   #185
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Thank youu

[QUOTE=BA5;3063193]I hope nobody minds, but I just did this on my Type SH, so I thought I'd add the Type SH version to the writeup.

I just signed up today to say thanks to everyone who posted here. I was in a bind and thought my car was gonna need hundreds of dollars to fix it but the DIY guides brought this repair cost down to $5 and a little bit of effort...well a lot of patience keeping that o-ring in place!

thanks everyone!
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Old 12-10-2013, 10:27 PM   #186
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i had my 92 h22a prelude sitting on the driveway for 10min to warm up b4 i went to school. when i got home. i noticed an alarming amount of oil on the driveway. id say a shot glass full.

now i checked the dip stick and it was below both dots. i topped the oil off an put cardboard under the engine. its been sitting for 2 hours, and no oil has dripped anywhere. So if I turned the car on, I believe it would leak. ill let you know tomorrow. but what are these symptoms pointing to.

thanks
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Old 12-19-2013, 04:29 PM   #187
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Just replaced my O ring on my 1999 base model. The original was the square type and difficult to get out because access. I used a pointed knife to stab the seal and then pry it out. I used a 18in bar to push up on the adapter (part 17) to turn it down where I could see what I was doing. The bar allowed enough room go get my hand up there with the knife. At this time the O ring cost $4.95 from Honda.

Last edited by IanLude; 12-19-2013 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 12-21-2013, 08:59 AM   #188
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Just registered to thank xxfallacyxx for this great post. I had replaced the o-ring in my 1998 2.2 VTEC Auto prelude without any issue. The hardest part was to remove the oil filter! (my filter removal tool sucks!). I used a short 30 mm socket, it works fine and RTV to keep the oring in place. The oring failure was quite sudden, I was in a 50 km trip and suddenly saw a really sort flash in the oil warning light. When I stopped to check, the dipstick came dry!! almost all the oil was gone!! (I refilled oil and managed to get home). I always check the oil level and below my car when parked, but as this leak only happens when the car is running, I have learnt is a good practice to check below the car when the it is parked and idling

Thanks again
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Old 01-04-2014, 02:48 PM   #189
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Ok did this on mine today. Im going to guess either I pinched the oring which I checked it like 5 times that it was seated well and it appears I have a leak On the hose above the filter. Only leaks when it runs but the oill the oil does not go down the block and instead around the oil filter it appears at top and then comes down off it. Should I go ahead and do the oring and the hoses? Thoughts? Its a cheap part like 7.55 with tax at the dealership. What type of hose is that?
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Old 01-04-2014, 04:33 PM   #190
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If it's leaking oil, it's not the hoses. The hoses carry coolant. If it's leaking oil badly only when it's running, it's the o-ring. I've seen more than one o-ring get pinched during the install.
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:21 AM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 71dsp View Post
If it's leaking oil, it's not the hoses. The hoses carry coolant. If it's leaking oil badly only when it's running, it's the o-ring. I've seen more than one o-ring get pinched during the install.
I will do it again thanks for the info.
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:22 AM   #192
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I will grab another and redo it.
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Old 01-08-2014, 03:07 PM   #193
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Bad oil filter after new oring. I had Bosch went to fram won't make that mistake again.
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Old 01-15-2014, 06:57 PM   #194
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Nice write up, did it today thanks.
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:44 AM   #195
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I need to this on my SH too! hopefully later on today.
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Old 08-01-2014, 06:10 PM   #196
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I recently did this procedure on my 00 sh thinking it would fix it but after awhile I still had a leak present coming from that general area. If i may suggest, part #7 on the diagram, does that not sit on the back of part #13? It appears so to me and i would think that this gasket should be replaced as well. But of course this would only apply to the sh models. I am probably going to order it when I do my tune up. what do you guys think?
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