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Old 03-20-2006, 11:58 PM   #26
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the main diffence from h22a1 and h22a4 is h22a1 is close deck but is a stonger block and it has the manual tensioner for the time belt as to h22a4 is the weaker block. the pistons are coated with some type of cemical so it;s not abrasive to the cylinder walls and has the auto tensioner for the time belt which has fail causing the time belt go loose. best case if u go boost the 92-96 h22a1 is the ideal block. and if ur going all motor get the manual tentioner swap from a later modle h22.hope that gives you mor info about that.
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Old 03-21-2006, 12:38 AM   #27
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Ugh... I really hate to do this, but I am in the mood tonight after reading 20 posts with more misinformation on it than I can stand...

Quote:
the main diffence from h22a1 and h22a4 is h22a1 is close deck but is a stonger block and it has the manual tensioner for the time belt as to h22a4 is the weaker block. the pistons are coated with some type of cemical so it;s not abrasive to the cylinder walls and has the auto tensioner for the time belt which has fail causing the time belt go loose. best case if u go boost the 92-96 h22a1 is the ideal block. and if ur going all motor get the manual tentioner swap from a later modle h22.hope that gives you mor info about that.
To the last poster... Research before you spit out BS like that... NO h22 came with a manual tensioner... You are simply stupid when it comes to the engine in your car, no offense...

Heres the deal.. h22a1 is a USDM 92-96 motor as posted above. Its a closed deck design vs the h22a4 with the open deck design... The difference in decks is actually coolant passages.. Open deck has a coolant passage that essentially surrounds the entire "sleeve" and the closed deck has several ports designed to cool it.. The open deck should be more efficient on a stock motor and that explains the change to open deck... search for pics for more clarification if you need it...

All H series motors come with FRM sleeves.. FRM= Fiber reinforced Matrix(or material).. These sleeves are chemically injected and layed during casting. They are actually aluminum ALLOY sleeves instead of the common iron sleeve. They essentially have the same affect as a ceramic coated header(they dissipate heat better)..

The H22 series motors came with auto tensioners for timing belts... They have been known to be prone to failure.. Some last 200 miles, other last 90k miles... When the autotensioner fails, it causes the timing belt to become loose... Thus, it will slip teeth and bend valves... Many people do a conversion to a h23 manual tensioner to avoid this, especially those running aftermarket cams and SPRINGS...

Af far as motor specs... Very little changed between the h22a1 and the h22a4 which is somewhat depressing to me... The h22a1 is designated at 190hp and the h22a4 is designated at 195 (years 97-99) and 200 (00-01)(I may be off by 1 year on that)... The h22a is 200hp (jdm motor).. Compression for the h22a1 and h22a4 is 10:1.. h22a is 10.6:1...

The h22a1 is OBD1 as stated above, with exception of the 1996 model which is a obd2 compliant motor.. Several sensors are located in different places between the two models (ie. crank angle, etc.) The h22a1 has adjustable Ignition timing through the distributor...



Heres my take on this whole thing... Now, I have given you all the info you probably could care to have, and there is more out there...

HERE IS THE PROBLEM... California has very strict rules about engine swaps.. One of them states the engine must be as new or newer than the vehicle (someone correct me if I am wrong).. Does anyone see a problem with an engine swap and a BIG bodykit?
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Old 03-21-2006, 01:12 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by JTCdudeman
Ugh... I really hate to do this, but I am in the mood tonight after reading 20 posts with more misinformation on it than I can stand...



To the last poster... Research before you spit out BS like that... NO h22 came with a manual tensioner... You are simply stupid when it comes to the engine in your car, no offense...

Heres the deal.. h22a1 is a USDM 92-96 motor as posted above. Its a closed deck design vs the h22a4 with the open deck design... The difference in decks is actually coolant passages.. Open deck has a coolant passage that essentially surrounds the entire "sleeve" and the closed deck has several ports designed to cool it.. The open deck should be more efficient on a stock motor and that explains the change to open deck... search for pics for more clarification if you need it...

All H series motors come with FRM sleeves.. FRM= Fiber reinforced Matrix(or material).. These sleeves are chemically injected and layed during casting. They are actually aluminum ALLOY sleeves instead of the common iron sleeve. They essentially have the same affect as a ceramic coated header(they dissipate heat better)..

The H22 series motors came with auto tensioners for timing belts... They have been known to be prone to failure.. Some last 200 miles, other last 90k miles... When the autotensioner fails, it causes the timing belt to become loose... Thus, it will slip teeth and bend valves... Many people do a conversion to a h23 manual tensioner to avoid this, especially those running aftermarket cams and SPRINGS...

Af far as motor specs... Very little changed between the h22a1 and the h22a4 which is somewhat depressing to me... The h22a1 is designated at 190hp and the h22a4 is designated at 195 (years 97-99) and 200 (00-01)(I may be off by 1 year on that)... The h22a is 200hp (jdm motor).. Compression for the h22a1 and h22a4 is 10:1.. h22a is 10.6:1...

The h22a1 is OBD1 as stated above, with exception of the 1996 model which is a obd2 compliant motor.. Several sensors are located in different places between the two models (ie. crank angle, etc.) The h22a1 has adjustable Ignition timing through the distributor...



Heres my take on this whole thing... Now, I have given you all the info you probably could care to have, and there is more out there...

HERE IS THE PROBLEM... California has very strict rules about engine swaps.. One of them states the engine must be as new or newer than the vehicle (someone correct me if I am wrong).. Does anyone see a problem with an engine swap and a BIG bodykit?
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Old 03-21-2006, 01:26 AM   #29
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Old 03-21-2006, 02:09 AM   #30
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nice post JTC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JTCdudeman
You are simply stupid when it comes to the engine in your car, no offense...
sorry, but that was funny as hell
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Old 03-21-2006, 06:12 AM   #31
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more info to know. but for some reason i bought a jdm h22. i didn't have to swap over my manual tensioner coversion to my new motor. i took the used h22 block and put the my current head in the car on it from the blown motor in the car. any suggestion as to why the used h22 has a maual tensioner. i bought the motor at japannes engine depot.
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Old 03-21-2006, 12:56 PM   #32
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h22

h22a-jdm
h22a4-97-01
h22a1-92-96si
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Old 03-21-2006, 01:32 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by illuded1
more info to know. but for some reason i bought a jdm h22. i didn't have to swap over my manual tensioner coversion to my new motor. i took the used h22 block and put the my current head in the car on it from the blown motor in the car. any suggestion as to why the used h22 has a maual tensioner. i bought the motor at japannes engine depot.
someone must have swapped it over before you bought it.
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Old 08-05-2008, 05:19 PM   #34
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If its a fifth gen swapped to a a1 or an a how do you change the filter. I have an 88 with the h22a jdm swap the filter on it is in the back and as I recall the filter on a fifth gen is up top. is there clearance or was the filter set up swap
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Old 07-13-2009, 12:05 AM   #35
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hey I having problems with my timing belts, the balancer belt is rubbing over my time belt
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Old 07-13-2009, 12:12 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by preludegurl98 View Post
hey I having problems with my timing belts, the balancer belt is rubbing over my time belt
Rubbing Over?

For me(just me) to help, maybe a tad bit more information could be given out?
Is it a new timing belt, or an old timing belt? did it start recently?
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Old 07-13-2009, 12:17 AM   #37
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its pretty new
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Old 07-13-2009, 12:20 AM   #38
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its pretty new

well it been making a noise for a cuople days, then yesturday timing belt broke when i turned the car on.
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Old 07-13-2009, 12:24 AM   #39
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JTCdudeman definitely rep for you my man!
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Old 07-13-2009, 05:00 PM   #40
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Holy old thread batman. Also how did the topic go from h22a1 to h22a4 differences to worn timing belts?
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Old 07-14-2009, 10:51 PM   #41
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:05 PM   #42
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need some help

i have a 90 honda prelude. it have a b21 in it, that burns oil like no other. i want to put in the h22. what do i need to find to make this work?
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Old 07-16-2009, 10:18 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123me456you View Post
i have a 90 honda prelude. it have a b21 in it, that burns oil like no other. i want to put in the h22. what do i need to find to make this work?
Search for the answer instead of posting your question in a thread that is completely unrelated. I would start in the 3G section.
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Old 07-14-2011, 05:42 PM   #44
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if i remember correctly... everything is the same, vtec engagement point is the same and so is redline.
Hey you seem to know alot about preludes, I have a 93'' Lude H22 with Vtec at how many RPMs does the vtec kick in.
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Old 07-14-2011, 05:46 PM   #45
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^ Worst nooblet first post for July 2011 goes to this guy.
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Old 07-15-2011, 04:56 PM   #46
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The reason he probably swapped the older motor in is the same reason I did it.

You tack on another $800-$1200 to get a factory OBD2 h22. You can swap the required parts to make the motor OBD2 over from the old motor.
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Old 07-15-2011, 05:34 PM   #47
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For answering a question before noticing the thread was a 5 year old revival:

+rep to Psud3ity
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Old 07-16-2011, 01:18 PM   #48
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^lmao^ Funny how entertaining a FRIGGIN OLD post can be when new guys find a random thread to post their un-related questions to.. Then Kronn finds it...
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Old 07-16-2011, 05:34 PM   #49
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Lol.
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Old 07-16-2011, 11:45 PM   #50
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