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Old 05-07-2017, 03:08 PM   #1
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Ol Rusty

Following the write-off of my last car I bought this one. It's my third 3rd gen Prelude, fourth if you count a parts car.

A one-owner '88 2.0Si.

Acquired May 6, 2017 with 163,000km on it

Old and new

The SR will be stripped of everything I can use.

Some of the first things I hope to tackle are moving the AC and cruise from it into the new car.
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I think in '87 the engineers at Honda got the bean counters drunk on sake before having them sign off on the Prelude design.
"W-wait! Why are the shifter cables adjustable? No one is ever going to..."
"A toast to your health!
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Old 05-07-2017, 03:55 PM   #2
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nice! which front bumper are you going to run? I would save the front fenders and hood and headlights plus front bumper If you have room. They are already the right color. I guess the fenders would have that decal at the bottom that wouldn't match but other then that.
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Last edited by cudaboy; 05-07-2017 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 05-07-2017, 04:20 PM   #3
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You should drill out the rear sheet metal for the tail lights as well. You could do the light conversion and wouldn't even need to do any real paint work, just the bit that is hidden by the bumper and lights anyways.
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:36 PM   #4
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nice! which front bumper are you going to run? I would save the front fenders and hood and headlights plus front bumper If you have room. They are already the right color. I guess the fenders would have that decal at the bottom that wouldn't match but other then that.
Definitely going to rock the 88 front end, since I haven't had it before. The paint on the bumper is in good shape and it has the fogs. I am definitely taking at least one fender off the 90 to replace a rusty one on the 88, and everything else will depend on finding storage space.

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You should drill out the rear sheet metal for the tail lights as well. You could do the light conversion and wouldn't even need to do any real paint work, just the bit that is hidden by the bumper and lights anyways.
That's a great idea, it will be a bit lower priority for me, but I'll try to save it - again, if storage is available to me. I'm in a 680 sq. ft apartment with my wife currently

Was glad to find wiring for cruise control:

And for A/C.

The engine bay is dirty but complete.

The coolant and oil look clean.

I went back to the junkyard today just in case the black clock I saw a month ago was still there. To my surprise it was! I think it needs a new LED because it's only lighting up very faintly. Side note: these two clocks are from different suppliers, and I wonder if that's why only one of them has a broken cover.

The OEM equalizer is cool. I wish I could keep this look, but I drive too much not to put in my modern stereo.

Someone went to real effort to make sure the directional wheels are backwards, complete with directional tires mounted the wrong way.

I'm enjoying seeing stock wheels for a change. I'd run these on one side and the sawblades off my parts car on the other side, if only there were more good tire options!
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I think in '87 the engineers at Honda got the bean counters drunk on sake before having them sign off on the Prelude design.
"W-wait! Why are the shifter cables adjustable? No one is ever going to..."
"A toast to your health!
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Old 05-09-2017, 08:30 PM   #5
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Sweet!

The clock is an '88 thing I think....I came cross the same thing last year. I picked up an '88 clock that has a cover, but doesn't work. I tried swapping the guts with a couple other newer clocks I have but they don't quite fit. The '88 clock is made by Rhythm Watch and the newer ones by Nippon Seiki. A little project for another day...
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Old 05-12-2017, 06:25 PM   #6
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Interesting, the clock in my car might not be original because it's stamped NSE. The dysfunctional one with a cover, from the junkyard, is definitely Rhythm Watch though! Haha. Looks like it might work if I can just get it to light up... I have 4 clocks on my desk right now - 2 blue ones sold and needing to be mailed off, and the 2 black ones.
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I think in '87 the engineers at Honda got the bean counters drunk on sake before having them sign off on the Prelude design.
"W-wait! Why are the shifter cables adjustable? No one is ever going to..."
"A toast to your health!
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Old 05-12-2017, 07:17 PM   #7
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Hi Andrew. Great news on the wiring harness. When you swap in your 90-91 a/c switch to that yellow clip harness let me know if it clips together because I don't know if they are truly different or not. The online parts manual has different part numbers but states the latter one supercedes the first one when the first 88-89 is not available. So it should be plug and play or it might mean you have to cut off the clip and solder on the corresponding wiring harness clip.
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Old 05-17-2017, 12:08 PM   #8
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Yeah it's looking like some wiring will be required. Good thing it's not supposed to be a really hot summer this year.

Discovery: 88 turn signals look different than 89 ones. Went to replace one and it clashed haha.

Worse discovery. Car bogs and stumbles at low rpm, and sometimes even dies at idle, but only when the tank is below about 1/2. Gas pump issue?
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I think in '87 the engineers at Honda got the bean counters drunk on sake before having them sign off on the Prelude design.
"W-wait! Why are the shifter cables adjustable? No one is ever going to..."
"A toast to your health!
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Old 05-17-2017, 12:26 PM   #9
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Maybe. Could also be rust/debris in the tank blocking the pick-up.

What wiring is missing?
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Old 05-17-2017, 02:55 PM   #10
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I took another look at the engine bay and the plug I thought was for cruise, isn't. It's empty on the 90 as well. As far as I can see, the harness by the fender on the 88 is missing the connector for cruise.

I might at least try to remove both AC and cruise parts from the 90 to see how involved it is. It's good learning, just can't have my daily down for too long.
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I think in '87 the engineers at Honda got the bean counters drunk on sake before having them sign off on the Prelude design.
"W-wait! Why are the shifter cables adjustable? No one is ever going to..."
"A toast to your health!
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Old 05-17-2017, 02:57 PM   #11
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Oh and I would believe the rust thing. It's pretty rusty around the filler. I guess I could swap gas tanks too, and save some sheetmetal from around the filler area in case it becomes a real need.
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I think in '87 the engineers at Honda got the bean counters drunk on sake before having them sign off on the Prelude design.
"W-wait! Why are the shifter cables adjustable? No one is ever going to..."
"A toast to your health!
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:52 PM   #12
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Here's the difference between 88 (on car) and 89 front turn signals.

Today I swapped wheels for safety. Now I'm on winter-biased tires in May, but at least the sidewalls aren't dry rotted. I didn't want to roll on my summer 16's on at stock height.

Those tires are both 195 wide. I guess millimeters have gotten larger since 2004.

That ground clearance though.

Of course I had to throw a stock wheel on the lowered car to see what it looks like.

More fun discoveries: the right rear UCA bushings are shot, so the wheel has half an inch of free play. Fixing that's going to be a high priority.
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I think in '87 the engineers at Honda got the bean counters drunk on sake before having them sign off on the Prelude design.
"W-wait! Why are the shifter cables adjustable? No one is ever going to..."
"A toast to your health!
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:30 PM   #13
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Parts cars are fun, aren't they?

How are you liking the 88/89 overall compared to the 90/91?
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Old 05-19-2017, 09:18 PM   #14
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I don't find it to be a substantially different ownership experience. While I do like the '90 rear end better, I don't hate the taillights, and I don't really notice the slight differences in the interior. OBD0 isn't bothering me and probably never will. I think my only year-specific beef so far is with the mechanical speedometer. It's 10% optimistic, while the one in my '90 was quite accurate (both checked using the same phone app and on the same set of tires).

I do notice there's less power with the B20A5 vs. B21A1, but the difference is felt mostly below 3000 RPM, so I just downshift more often. Part of what I'm noticing might be the gearing with that more highway-friendly D2J5.
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I think in '87 the engineers at Honda got the bean counters drunk on sake before having them sign off on the Prelude design.
"W-wait! Why are the shifter cables adjustable? No one is ever going to..."
"A toast to your health!
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Old 05-20-2017, 12:44 PM   #15
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Congrats on the new ride! Now you can use that uber rare 3rd gen wing you found a while back for that naked trunk
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Old 05-20-2017, 07:35 PM   #16
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Yeah, except I sent it off to 1funryd in January 2016 for him to make replicas. I kind of want to ask for it back, but not at the expense of everyone else being able to get one...
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I think in '87 the engineers at Honda got the bean counters drunk on sake before having them sign off on the Prelude design.
"W-wait! Why are the shifter cables adjustable? No one is ever going to..."
"A toast to your health!
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Old 05-21-2017, 06:39 AM   #17
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Glad to see you managed to pick up another 3G! Still sad to see the other one go though, it was cool for sure. You'll find that tyres of the same designated numerical width can differ a lot in actual width depending on manufacturer/model etc.


EDIT: lol typo
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Old 05-22-2017, 09:23 PM   #18
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It was a better car than this one. Ah well.

Trying to get my sunroof working so I took the motor out of the 90. This is what it looks like above the headliner:

This impressed me. I was expecting to find a sideways version of the standard window regulator found in the doors. Not so. Instead, it's a worm gear setup.

The gear on the motor inserts in between the two worms pictured here. I found this pretty fascinating, but will be more interested to figure out why the one in the 88 isn't working. The motor spins fine, but I can hear grinding like the teeth aren't making good contact. It also feels like the motor isn't bolted down tightly, and I wonder if it will be as simple as snugging up the nuts.
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I think in '87 the engineers at Honda got the bean counters drunk on sake before having them sign off on the Prelude design.
"W-wait! Why are the shifter cables adjustable? No one is ever going to..."
"A toast to your health!
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Old Yesterday, 12:26 AM   #19
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Well I read the helms. I will do this someday in the future but I got other stuff first. If you don't have a helms then use your adobe pdf of the online manual or just go to the online manual. There is a sunroof motor clutch adjustment. It states to replace the lock washer and adjust the motor clutch nut clockwise while looking up at it to increase force and counter clockwise to reduce force. Once it is adjusted you are to bend the new lock by folding it down on either side of the nut locking it in place. The desired force is 44-55 lb. They show using a spring scale to determine force needed to open and slide the glass back without the motor installed like you have now. They state it should be no more then 22 lb. They say to put a shop rag between the scale hook and glass to protect the sunroof so that or some rubber probably like a folded up bike intertube rubber. I would probably try this first to see if anything is binding up.

They show using same scale with the motor in and someone else pushing the close button while the sunroof is totally open and measuring the force applied by the motor. Again ideal is 44-55lb. You can double confirm all this with the online manual or paperback. You hook it on the front of glass and hold the scale and measure the force it takes to stop it and once stopped have your helper to stop pushing the sunroof motor close button.

They state if it takes more then 22 lb to open it that either the height shims aren't right under the glass or the side alligator teeth adjustment on either cable end near the glass need to be adjusted as it is binding up.

I will look to see if amazon or harbor freight has for scales. I would presume you could use an easy to read fish scale.

Mine may just need adjustment or it might of needed adjustment and I chewed the gears up or worm screws. I open and closed it manually and seemed to be getting worse. Mine started to go after cleaning the rails so maybe I got a piece of paper towel or dirt binding mine up or maybe they should have a light coating of like white lithium grease to smoothly operate. But yeah there is no mention of greasing the tracks in helms. Also I had replaced the sunroof glass before then and maybe I don't have it shimmed up correctly. The original got cracked up by hail damage.

I looked at hondapartsnow.com for the lock washer and couldn't find any mention of it. Worst case scenario just take the motor to the honda dealer to get a washer. If the parts guy doesn't know then I would ask the service adviser to ask the shop foreman and either he will know what they use or he can confirm with his technicians.

We use the same motor as the 89-91 Civic 3 door SI uses so feel free to search whatever gen forum that is or to mention to the shop foreman.

It is possible that a new lock washer is all that is needed. You could look at yours on your motor and use the allen key to turn it manually and see if it is allowing the nut to slip by. Or bolt it back in and have someone operate it while you watch it. Doctors have a saying. Don't go looking for zebras when it is probably a horse to begin with.
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Old Yesterday, 12:48 PM   #20
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If I can jiggle the motor around with the allen key manual crank, is that a good indicator of zebras?
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I think in '87 the engineers at Honda got the bean counters drunk on sake before having them sign off on the Prelude design.
"W-wait! Why are the shifter cables adjustable? No one is ever going to..."
"A toast to your health!
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