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Old 04-18-2017, 11:24 AM   #1
tavo_80816
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B20A water pump and mount bracket problem

In the process of replacing the timing belt, my mechanic showed me this....cracked/broken block where engine mount goes and this gunk inside the water pump....


Per my mechanic, he thinks that the gunk is some kind of leak stop substance and the engine probably either has a coolant leak or overheated previously.

Regarding the crack and coil insert he thinks it could cause problems in the future since this engine tilt a lot during acceleration.

Anyone had these problems in the past?
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Old 04-18-2017, 12:37 PM   #2
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I would pull that current insert then add a helicoil to the deeper portion. Then use a longer bolt that makes use of those deeper threads.

For the cooling system I would try flushing as much of that out as you can, radiator is probably full of it as well.
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Old 04-18-2017, 01:05 PM   #3
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This engine is currently sitting on a pallet since it arrived from a Canadian engine company a few days ago. I put it on the bed of a pick up truck and had the mechanic change the timing belt but after his recommendation, I didn't change the belt because he thinks that these two problems will cause me a headache down the road.

I don't know if that gunk in the water pump is a big deal or not. I have never seen that before in any of my cars. It has the consistency of mud.
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Old 04-18-2017, 01:18 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MustardCat View Post
I would pull that current insert then add a helicoil to the deeper portion. Then use a longer bolt that makes use of those deeper threads.
It looks like using a same size but longer bolt will reach the deeper threads. I'm just worried that the crack will get bigger and cause problems later? Or will the other bolts on the mount be enough to hold it in place?

I would hate to ship back the engine to Canada cuz it would cost a lot of money.
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Old 04-18-2017, 02:55 PM   #5
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If you just bought it then send it back, it's a defective product. Why not just buy a used engine local?
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Old 04-18-2017, 03:07 PM   #6
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I called some of the Southern California engine places and no one has the B20A or b20a5. I'm planning on sending it back just sucks that I'm going have to pay the shipping back to Canada.... but I rather lose $300 on shipping than $1200 I spent on it
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Old 04-18-2017, 04:05 PM   #7
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Well you could just buy 1funryds B series swap mounts and then buy a B20b for less than $600 shipped.

But you may just need to call around more, are you under time pressure? I'm sure if you just called around once a week a B20a5 would turn up locally. Or maybe find a junk car with running engine on CL...
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Old 04-18-2017, 04:09 PM   #8
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That definitely needs to go back... or you get a substantial refund on it.
I'd also be claiming any costs back for you to return it, not your fault they've sold you worthless crap


And yes that is some stoplleak crap in it, that alone says the engine may have had problems.
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Old 04-19-2017, 10:11 AM   #9
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Company told me that if my mechanic could swap a new head gasket, that they would refund me the cost for it so I could have piece of mind regarding the stopleak issue.

Worth it?

Engine has good compression right now as it is.
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Old 04-19-2017, 11:08 AM   #10
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And what about the damage to the mountings?


As a mechanic I'd be charging double(slight exaggeration?) the normal cost for having to clean all that crap out of the engine. It'd be done properly rather than a quick fix but hey...

I guess it depends on exactly how much they'll be giving you back.
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Old 04-19-2017, 02:36 PM   #11
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Spent $900 plus $290 for shipping.

They offered to refund me $300
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Old 04-20-2017, 03:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Spent $900 plus $290 for shipping.

They offered to refund me $300
Wow Tavo!!! That is colossal mess right there.
I would have just invested into my B-Series swap kit and gone the B20b swap.

You would have not lost any power or torque and had better support for the engine and tranny.
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:52 PM   #13
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They offered to refund me $300
Personally I think that it pathetic. But ask your mechanic how much it'll cost to put everything right and you have a number to work with.
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Old 04-20-2017, 10:07 PM   #14
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I'd also be sending it back.
The sellers probably didn't know about the damage since it was all covered. At this point unless they're really slimey and would be willing to resell it without disclosing the issues it has, it's fairly worthless to them. So if you decide to keep it, you should be getting a lot more money back.
If the head is coming off, this might afford better access to repair the cracked mount. I'd be asking a machine shop if it could be welded and the block decked.
The broken mount is the bigger issue vs the cooling system crud IMO.
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Old 04-21-2017, 12:01 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1funryd View Post
Wow Tavo!!! That is colossal mess right there.
I would have just invested into my B-Series swap kit and gone the B20b swap.

You would have not lost any power or torque and had better support for the engine and tranny.
the swap kit alone is $700.

Im not doing this for power and torque, I just need my commuter car back on the road.
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Old 04-21-2017, 12:02 AM   #16
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Personally I think that it pathetic. But ask your mechanic how much it'll cost to put everything right and you have a number to work with.
I asked for $500 back....
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Old 04-21-2017, 08:44 AM   #17
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I'd accept nothing less. If they argue tell them you'll be sending it back for full refund of cost and shipping both ways.... it is not fit for purpose so entirely their probalem.
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:21 PM   #18
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lowest price for shipping I found was $800!!! I was like wtf. how can it be so much for freight services?

Still waiting for their decision....
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Old Yesterday, 04:10 PM   #19
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Curious as to what the resolution was here...

I'd have not even considered doing anything to that motor. As soon as the busted block part was spotted, time to halt and regroup with some other option.

As far as the gunk, electrolysis can and does whittle away at aluminum parts, so that may well be aluminum sludge that once was part of the water passages. Once the coolant is worn out the water content starts a rather evil work on the aluminum. Ignored long enough and a once proud engine is now fodder for the aluminum recycler.
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Old Yesterday, 11:34 PM   #20
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Curious as to what the resolution was here...

I'd have not even considered doing anything to that motor. As soon as the busted block part was spotted, time to halt and regroup with some other option.

As far as the gunk, electrolysis can and does whittle away at aluminum parts, so that may well be aluminum sludge that once was part of the water passages. Once the coolant is worn out the water content starts a rather evil work on the aluminum. Ignored long enough and a once proud engine is now fodder for the aluminum recycler.
I had the shop clean it up, install the new water pump and then I flushed the system. So far no problems.

As far as the bracket goes, I had to install my old B21 motor mount bracket because the one that came with the B20A6 did not line up. weird.
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