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1997-2001 Prelude How-to Full Inspection & Tune-up

118K views 71 replies 42 participants last post by  Shiloh51933 
#1 · (Edited)
Send me some reputation!
I'm going to be making a complete Inspection/Tune up thread for the 5th gen Prelude. Everything will be in one thread and everything will be linked for easy access.
I'll start with the basics, then later on when I get better pics I'll get more detailed.
I'm not working on this 24/7 btw.

Maintenance Schedule (You are Here)


Prelude Security
Jack Support Points, Towing and Safety

Replacing the Engine Oil & Filter
Replacing the Manual Transmission Oil
Replacing the Air Filter
Replacing the PCV Valve
Replacing the Oxygen (O2) Sensors
Inspecting the Spark Plugs and Wires

Replacing the Distributor (and Wire Numbers)
Replacing the Fuel Filter

Replacing the Thermostat
Replacing the Timing Belt
Inspecting & Adjusting Valve Clearance
Inspecting the Radiator & Coolant
Inspecting the Suspension Components
Inspecting the Brakes
Inspecting the Brake Fluid, Power Steering Fluid & Clutch Fluid
Inspecting the Exhaust Pipe
Inspecting the Accessory Belts
Parts that need to be Lubricated Annually
How To Identify if your Prelude has ATTS (Type SH)
Prelude Recalls
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Maintenance Schedule for NORMAL Conditions
Page 1


Page 2

Maintenance Schedule for SEVERE Conditions (Canada, Antarctica, The Moon, etc.)
Page 1

Page 2

Lubrification Points
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Replacing the Engine Oil & Filter (SH & Base Models)

Follow the step by step instructions and use the pictures as a reference guide.
Page 1

Page 2


Page 3

Location of Drain Bolt

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While your oil drains, take the time to replace the oil filter.

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After you've replaced your oil filter, emptied the oil and put the drain bolt back in, you can fill the engine up.

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Use the Dipstick as a reference guide and stop when you reach the top mark.

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#3 ·
Very nice! BUT! I'd like to suggest something.

I see your using photobucket, you should get the thumbnail view for the images.
Check the box for the image
"generate html and img code"
use the "IMG clickable thumbnails for message boards - recommended " code
you'll end up with the images like my writeups :D
http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302157

Nice!
 
#8 · (Edited)
Replacing the O2 Sensors

*Go here to buy O2 Sensors for cheap.
www.sparkplugs.com
Get the NGK OEM ones for your Prelude, they're exactly the same as Honda ones but about 1/5th of the price. I got both of mine for exactly 100$ shipped.
*

Follow the step by step instructions and use the pictures as a reference guide.

The manual instructions make it look very easy to replace, but after several thousand miles on your prelude, they won't be that easy. You'll probably need a breaker bar with a long impact socket to remove both O2 sensors.
This is a breaker bar.

If you can't fit a breaker bar, use a wrench and A LOT of force (which is what I had to do).
You'll need to jack the car up high enough to have room to play with the breaker bar. If you can have access to a car lift that would be perfect, but since most of us don't you'll have to find the right position to work with.

Follow the wires to find the connectors

You may need to remove the Cat Heat shield if it's in the way. Mine was rusted enough so that I could push it out of the way luckily.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Inspecting the Spark Plugs and Wires

This section is useful for any type of car/atv/snowmobile/etc combustion engine.

How to diagnose a Spark Plug

Inspecting a Spark Plug (NGK/DENSO Part #, Proper Gap, etc.)

Inspecting Spark Plug Wires

How to remove and inspect the spark plugs.
There are 4 10mm bolts holding the spark plug cover on the H22 engine.

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Pull out the wires.

Use an extension with Spark plug socket to remove the plugs.

Spark Plug in Hand

Looking at the condition of the spark plug

Reinstalling the spark plugs

DON'T drop the plugs into the cylinder head, you can easily mess up the spark plug gap if you do.

Don't over tighten the spark plugs. They don't really need to be tight and it's easy to strip the threads in the head if you over tighten.

Inspecting the Spark Plug Wires

Look for open cuts or burn marks on the wire. Place your hand on the wires while the engine is running, usually if you get a shock, there's an open in the insulation somewhere and you should replace the wires. Don't pull on the spark plug end connections while the engine is running, you're almost sure to get a shock. Don't touch them if the wires are wet/humid.
 
#10 ·
How to identify if your Prelude has ATTS (a.k.a. Type SH, Active-Torque-Transfer-System)

Some people will swap a base model wheels with a Type SH wheels, door panel lights, etc.
Here are 3 easy ways to tell if a Prelude is actually a Type SH with ATTS.


Inside the Engine Bay, Type SH Preludes have two parallel hoses that connect the ATTS Unit with the radiator.

Type SH Preludes also have a wheel sensor wire in each of the front wheel wells. There is also a Yaw Rate sensor which is easily identifiable inside the trunk.

Here is the ATTS Unit Cooler Hose.

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For the Wheel Sensor, you don't need to take the wheel off to see the wire.

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Inside the Trunk, there's a small black cover in the corner. The Yaw rate sensor should be underneath. You can easily take out the carpet to make sure it's actually there.

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#14 ·
Replacing the Distributor (and Wire Numbers)

The Cylinders are numbered from one to four, one starting at the driver's side.

The wire numbers for the distributor are on the next image.

If you want to remove the whole distributor, follow these steps.

If you're replacing just the Cap & Rotor, follow these simple steps.

Take out all 3 Screws and pull out the Distributor Cap.

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The rotor is held on with a screw, then just replace the parts and reinstall in reverse order.

I can't go into much detail for this because I've never actually done it on an H22.
 
#72 ·
Replacing the Distributor (and Wire Numbers)

The Cylinders are numbered from one to four, one starting at the driver's side.

The wire numbers for the distributor are on the next image.

If you want to remove the whole distributor, follow these steps.

If you're replacing just the Cap & Rotor, follow these simple steps.

Take out all 3 Screws and pull out the Distributor Cap.

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The rotor is held on with a screw, then just replace the parts and reinstall in reverse order.

I can't go into much detail for this because I've never actually done it on an H22.
On this type of dizzy doesn't it just fit on one way because of the grooves on the dizzy end and cam shaft end?
 
#15 ·
Jack Support Points, Towing and Safety

These are the ONLY Support Points on Preludes. Never use anything else as a substitute.
Sides

Front & Rear

These are the only places you should hook onto to tow a Prelude.


Always use the proper equipment, anything else could result in major injury.
A proper jack set is a must.

*Always use the stands if you're getting underneath a vehicle.. if the oil pressure suddenly drops in your jack, the vehicle WILL crush you and you will most likely die. It takes about 2 minutes to set up the stands and if something ever happens (like hitting the jack with your feet) you'll thank your ass you put them there.

 
#16 · (Edited)
Inspecting the Suspension Components

When should you inspect these components?
Every year according to Honda. Luckily it's fairly quick to do.

Component Locations


Base Model Front Suspension Arms (Inspection)


Type SH Front Suspension Arms (Inspection)


Rear Suspension Arms for both Models (Inspection)


Lift the Car up and remove the wheel.

Here is a run down of what you're about to do. Also check all the Nuts and make sure they're tight and not missing. Check all joints. This is very fast to do.

Check the Tie Rod Ends on both sides of the car (Front Suspension)

Another view of the same Tie rod end.

Check the Tie Rod Boot, gear box end.

Check the Driveshaft Boot for tears. Transmission side.

Check the Driveshaft Boot for tears again on the Knuckle Side.

Check the upper Balljoint.

Check the Lower Balljoint.

Check the radius rod joint.

Follow the radius rod to the front of the car.

Check for play there also.


Rear Suspension

Everything is basically the same for the rear suspension except there is no driveshaft and there's no Steering linkage (Tie Rod). This makes it simpler and faster to check than the front suspension.. but no less important.

Check the upper balljoint.

Check the Lower B Arm Balljoint. There's also a Lower A Arm Balljoint.

I have no other pictures for the rear suspension, but you get the point. Look for anything that has a connection (joint) and check for play. Be sure to check for loose Nuts and missing Cotter Pins. If there are any loose nuts, torque them down to the correct specs. It's really just that simple.


Inspecting the Dampers (Shock & Springs) is a bit more complicated. The only thing you can really do without taking everything apart is checking the Spring to see if it's badly rusted.
There shouldn't be any oil leaks on the shocks since Preludes use gas shocks.
 
#17 ·
Here you go, add this into the suspension inspection:



(save to your own photobucket.. just in case ;) )

*add*: "if you suspect something is loose, torque it down with a torque wrench according to the helms manual torque specs"
or something along the lines.
 
#23 ·
If you guys think of anything else that could be useful for this thread just post your idea up and I'll think about adding it if it's any good.
Remember that this is a inspection/tune up thread so it has to do with general maintenance.. nothing like "What cai fits ma lude?" type of stuff.
I thought of a lot of stuff but I'm only one person and since I'm not perfect I forget to write it down.
 
#25 ·
awesome work luda, rep 4 u
 
#26 ·
Maint. or checking up on the shifter and cables..various leaks..light bulb replacement and sizes..replacing worn out gaskets and such.. the vtec solinoid.. cleaning out the idle air control valve and throttle body..preventative maint. stuff..GREAT THREAD BTW rep points added.. :top:
 
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