Suspension Rebuild Issues – Spindle Nut stuck/LCA Ball joint ? / inner - outter tie rod assembly?
Hi y’all. I am in the middle of suspension rebuild. More on that later. But, here are my immediate issues.
Spindle Nut frozen – I am trying to release the spindle, instead of breaking free and screwing off the HUB MOVES WITH THE SPINDLE NUT – not sure why that would happen. Me and a friend have been using a long-handle ratchet with a breaker bar with elbow grease with no luck. We’ve tried with the wheel up, wheel down under load, both of us working the breaker bar…
1. How would I loosen and unscrew? (impact gun? Safe to heat with Butane torch?)
2. Do I need to loosen it to replace ball joint?
LCA Ball Joint removal/replace – from the reviewing the threads on removing and replacing these, it seems these have to pressed into the seat on the spindle. I have seen a thread where someone wrote that you can pull out the CV axle, remove the snapring, and use balljoint remover to pop it out, seat the new one and reinstall. It is a MOOG AMG K9385 (D28-54597). Given that the upper controls are off, the tie rods are off the spindle, and the radius arms are off the lca which is still attached by the A-frame and engine..
1. What is the best way to remove and replace? (remove the spindle and press-in? Remove spindle/lca and press in? seat in with snapring and reinstall?)
2. The MOOG balljoint doesn’t appear to have any grease and I don’t see a fill-hole or access to fill it?
Inner – outer tie rod replace? – I have the following MOOG tie rod parts – Tie Rod End ES2942RL, Inner Tie Rod EV194. Also have new hardware from Honda to replace on the inners.From looking at them, MOOG sent me two different inner tie rods with the same product number. I’ll have to work that out with them. But when I compare them to the inner tie rods on the Prelude with the MOOGs, they don’t seem to be the same. The one on the car – passenger side (haven’t looked at the driver’s yet) – has a ball & socket on the rack-side with no place behind to screw it out. It looks like it’s a straight shaft that goes directly into the Power Steering Rack?..
1. On the ’89 4ws are the inner tie rods different on the passenger and driver sides or should they be the same?
2. How do you unscrew them out ? Or do you have work through the PS Rack?
3. Does anyone have experience with the MOOG ES2942RL? Instead of a straighe shaft end, it is a ball/socket – so the suspension can pivot/flex around the tie rod end – with a zirkes to fill with grease.
4. After looking at the inner tie rods, they are tight and in good shape and would not need to be replaced other than I paid for the MOOG parts and would thing they would be stonger than the OEM parts assuming they are the right one for the car. So, replace or not/
Here’s the rest of the rebuild:
1. Cudaboy front / rear STBs (not installed)
2. New/used UCA with Prothane 8-204 bushings pressed in and MOOG upper ball joints (installed, not attached to suspension setup yet)
3. New/used LCA with Honda OEM bushings pressed in (not installed yet)
4. MOOG Ball joints (not installed yet)
5. MOOG inner/outter Tie Rods (not installed yet)
6. Whitline front sway bar (not installed yet)
I really want to get these issues figured out. Because of the price - and hopefully quality – of all these parts, it took me some time to get everything together. And, I have not been able to drive the car. I relly want to get it back on the road with the refreshed suspension.
Thanks for the help.
Hi y’all. I am in the middle of suspension rebuild. More on that later. But, here are my immediate issues.
Spindle Nut frozen – I am trying to release the spindle, instead of breaking free and screwing off the HUB MOVES WITH THE SPINDLE NUT – not sure why that would happen. Me and a friend have been using a long-handle ratchet with a breaker bar with elbow grease with no luck. We’ve tried with the wheel up, wheel down under load, both of us working the breaker bar…
1. How would I loosen and unscrew? (impact gun? Safe to heat with Butane torch?)
2. Do I need to loosen it to replace ball joint?
LCA Ball Joint removal/replace – from the reviewing the threads on removing and replacing these, it seems these have to pressed into the seat on the spindle. I have seen a thread where someone wrote that you can pull out the CV axle, remove the snapring, and use balljoint remover to pop it out, seat the new one and reinstall. It is a MOOG AMG K9385 (D28-54597). Given that the upper controls are off, the tie rods are off the spindle, and the radius arms are off the lca which is still attached by the A-frame and engine..
1. What is the best way to remove and replace? (remove the spindle and press-in? Remove spindle/lca and press in? seat in with snapring and reinstall?)
2. The MOOG balljoint doesn’t appear to have any grease and I don’t see a fill-hole or access to fill it?
Inner – outer tie rod replace? – I have the following MOOG tie rod parts – Tie Rod End ES2942RL, Inner Tie Rod EV194. Also have new hardware from Honda to replace on the inners.From looking at them, MOOG sent me two different inner tie rods with the same product number. I’ll have to work that out with them. But when I compare them to the inner tie rods on the Prelude with the MOOGs, they don’t seem to be the same. The one on the car – passenger side (haven’t looked at the driver’s yet) – has a ball & socket on the rack-side with no place behind to screw it out. It looks like it’s a straight shaft that goes directly into the Power Steering Rack?..
1. On the ’89 4ws are the inner tie rods different on the passenger and driver sides or should they be the same?
2. How do you unscrew them out ? Or do you have work through the PS Rack?
3. Does anyone have experience with the MOOG ES2942RL? Instead of a straighe shaft end, it is a ball/socket – so the suspension can pivot/flex around the tie rod end – with a zirkes to fill with grease.
4. After looking at the inner tie rods, they are tight and in good shape and would not need to be replaced other than I paid for the MOOG parts and would thing they would be stonger than the OEM parts assuming they are the right one for the car. So, replace or not/
Here’s the rest of the rebuild:
1. Cudaboy front / rear STBs (not installed)
2. New/used UCA with Prothane 8-204 bushings pressed in and MOOG upper ball joints (installed, not attached to suspension setup yet)
3. New/used LCA with Honda OEM bushings pressed in (not installed yet)
4. MOOG Ball joints (not installed yet)
5. MOOG inner/outter Tie Rods (not installed yet)
6. Whitline front sway bar (not installed yet)
I really want to get these issues figured out. Because of the price - and hopefully quality – of all these parts, it took me some time to get everything together. And, I have not been able to drive the car. I relly want to get it back on the road with the refreshed suspension.
Thanks for the help.