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Benny's UKDM BA2 Prelude - Project Shakotan.

49K views 319 replies 35 participants last post by  cboutilier 
#1 ·
Hello everyone! I'm Benny and I've just taken ownership of one of my favourite Honda's so far!

Give you an idea of my Previous Honda's Here's my DC2 (USDM Style)





And my most recently completed and Mag featured HellaFlush CRX del sol









Now onto the good stuff!

1987 BA2 Mk2 Prelude 2.0i-16

One of the last Mk2's made it has a non-VTEC B20 engine, Cool as fark factory single wiper, Shagpile carpets, SUPER comfy seats, optional amazing squidgy spoiler and . . . . . FLIPPY LIGHTS!!!!! Haha

Actually LOVE this car already. It drives like new, no really, it does.

54K on the clocks and it's pretty much the definition of immaculate.



Plans are:

To lower ASAP

Source an HKS Windmaster exhaust

Find some temporary track wheels

Source some old skool Deep dish SSR wheels 15x8 ET's in the minus's

Then get them to fit lol


Time for some pics!










Retro wheels!



Single wiper! + weird bonnet spoiler thing



LOOOOVE the spoiler





Interior is IMMACULATE



Woot! :D





My questions to you lovely people are:

Will 3G suspension fit?

As BC Racing make a Coilover Kit for the 3G and not the 2G.

How can I avoid the UCA Fouling the body without cutting the struts up?

Thanks in advance!
 
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#2 · (Edited)
BA2 Lude

Damn where did you find this car and how on earth did I not see it for sale!!

Hmmm well nice to see another UK lude fan!! Where abouts are you based? Near london as you've been to Ace cafe at hangar lane junction or you just went for a one off get together? I'm in Kent and South East London.

As for suspension all you can get is lowering springs from AVO, PI, Spax but there all pretty naff to be honest and rust pretty quickly best ones I had were Jamex and still have them 15 years later but sadly discontinued. As a result I've actually had some proper coilovers made up by Gaz with adjustable damping and full height adjustment from sensible to silly low any lower and the bottom of the chassis will scrape along the floor.

Also I've got 3 BA2's (two for spares) the one that isn't is a full on restoration but if I'd seen yours I would have bought that instead! lol! The other two are a mint low low miles EX in red and the other is my first car that I bought when I was 19 which is a DL, this one is stripped out full on road/track racer with a heavily modified 12 valve 2.0l engine and the full on race coilover suspenion setup I had made up, I've also got modified front camber, and poly bushes in the front suspension. I've also got excellent contacts for exhaust's I've had a few done all custom made by a excellent company in Ashford. I do all my own engine work and currently have a couple of engine projects on the go with some serious headwork for both types of engines B20A and A20/A18 hybrids.

My DL lude is currently running 14.1 second 1.4 mile at the Pod with terminal speed of 99.96mph with street tyres 195/50/15 Vredestein sportrac 3's open diff and no fancy electronic traction control. Next time hopefully will have at least a nice set of sticky semi slicks with a 205/50/15 size which should see me nicely into the 100mph and high 13's but need to get the cylinder head reassembled and bolted back on in next couple of weeks and pass an MOT as it failed on a dodgy rear hand brake mechanism. Shouldn't be too hard have a new caliper already and the head just needs a bit of work to finish.
 
#3 ·
Damn where did you find this car and how on earth did I not see it for sale!!

Hmmm well nice to see another UK lude fan!! Where abouts are you based? Near london as you've been to Ace cafe at hangar lane junction or you just went for a one off get together? I'm in Kent and South East London.

As for suspension all you can get is lowering springs from AVO, PI, Spax but there all pretty naff to be honest and rust pretty quickly best ones I had were Jamex and still have them 15 years later but sadly discontinued. As a result I've actually had some proper coilovers made up by Gaz with adjustable damping and full height adjustment from sensible to silly low any lower and the bottom of the chassis will scrape along the floor.

Also I've got 3 BA2's (two for spares) the one that isn't is a full on restoration but if I'd seen yours I would have bought that instead! lol! The other two are a mint low low miles EX in red and the other is my first car that I bought when I was 19 which is a DL, this one is stripped out full on road/track racer with a heavily modified 12 valve 2.0l engine and the full on race coilover suspenion setup I had made up, I've also got modified front camber, and poly bushes in the front suspension. I've also got excellent contacts for exhaust's I've had a few done all custom made by a excellent company in Ashford. I do all my own engine work and currently have a couple of engine projects on the go with some serious headwork for both types of engines B20A and A20/A18 hybrids.
Twas on eBay dude! Haha. Been waiting for a minter to come up!

I'm 100% looking for coil overs really. And I'm looking to slam it. It's gonna drag, I'm used to that tho.

So how much we talking for Custom Gaz ones and do you think you could give me a reference number so they can replicate the ones you had made?

Are they shortened shocks compared to normal?

How do you stop the UCA hitting the body when you get REAL low?

I'm guessing you can't just stick a VTEC head on it and start bombing around then? :(

Many thanks for your reply!



Oh Oh and one last thing, How do you take the front bumper off correctly? I can see the big headed pozi bolts that are inbetween the headlights but I can't see how you get the corners off?
 
#4 ·
The is nothing better than a EDM Lude!!!



Hey welcome to the site there is alot of info here and some really cool peeps too !

Car looks mint !!!

I recon you have 2 choices here on what to do is either speak to Alex and get some rare parts and option this lude out or make it into a bit of a street car

  • B16 Vtec head - I once read some where that that the B20a and B16 gaskets were similar check out your local spare shop to compare and maybe you can do a b20 frankjob
  • 3G lude suspension I am currently busy with this check this out - http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=340645

Aslo the B20A motor can use the following parts
*B16 Pistons
*h22 Valve Springs
*B20B Cams
*B18B intake
*H22 exhaust mani
*B16 Cam Gears

etc

check with us first before buying these some parts need some moddification
 
#5 ·
Gaz coilovers

You can get them replicated easy enough I've had another member have a set made. If you check out some of the pics of my car it's about as low as I can go with the humps that are around my area before the subframe on the front grinds out, I am running smaller tyres though 195/50/15 so with 205/50/15 which is correct size you could go a little lower. If no humps around for track use or drag you can go way lower on the front and about 1cm maybe 2cm lower on the rear still. Shocks are designed to work to pretty low ride height so should be fine.

Vtec conversion on the block won't really work without major expense and headaches, as we have a few spares available to us (I have a quite a bit too), makes more sense to modify the B20A very capable of upto 250bhp depending howmuch cash you got to splash, more modern Vtec parts can be used e.g. rods, pistons, valves, springs, retainers etc. Expensive is the exhaust you'd have to get made up and header but I've got contacts for some really nice fabricators that can do the whole lot and even custom inlet manifold for ITB's or Webers like mine.

Stock B20A with exhaust, headers, some decent head work, Cold air induction, Fuel pressure regulator, mild cams, with stock ECU should get upto around 170bhp but then your at the limits of the ECU, anymore than that and you'll be needing aftermarket ECU, then you can run ITB's, better cams, big valves, more head work higher compression etc. and then you'll be easily able to get into the 200bhp mark.

check out my myspace page will give you some idea what I get upto with all 3 of my ludes!!

www.myspace.com/rjudgey
 
#6 ·
nice car mate - looks mint.

Since most of your questions have been answered I will try and answer the front bar question.

You need to remove the front grille between the headlights and do so while the headlights are popped up. There will be some screws on the bottom corners of the grille which attach to the corners which will then need to come out and there are 3 screws which take the corners off. The first two being on the covers and the third under the lense.

Once the grille and the corners are off with the lights raised there are some big screws holding the plastic cover to the re-bar. There may be a couple of other random screw holding things down so just have a peek around the edges...

There are things you can do to this engine and I believe HKS even made a turbo kit for it once upon a time but good luck trying to find one as I'm sure they were mainly in Japan.

I believe rjudgey will give you the details onthe GAZ coilovers he has and they are made locally so you shouldn't have too much trouble getting them. oh and I don't think the UCA will cause too much trouble - there is another member here who has his lude SLAMED - (rdnlude) who can probably give you some direction there.

I like the CRX and Teggy too.
 
#9 ·
Wow! Many thanks for all your replies! Already downloaded the workshop manual from one of the sites links. VERY helpful!

Well I'm gonna think about maybe fannying with the engine at a later date, I'm more of a wheels and suspension with a bit of body work kinda guy. Exhaust and intake is about as engine as I get lol

Very Interested in having proper coilover suspension. As I want to keep the standard struts and springs as it rides so lovely at the mo and I want to do European road trip later in the year so I want to be comfy!

Mr rjudgey yours is sat real nice and the coilovers look great. Did you modify your topcamber arms with larger holes? I'd ideally want to be about another 30mm lower all round if poss!

Arch gap is a big no no! Gotta be tucking!

I've just bought some really rare JDM wheels for it to go on it's 1st track day coming up in April. They are made by Work for another company. Should be getting delivered Friday!

The front bumper question was really about how the bumper comes apart at the ends, The manual says it slides forward but I tried this and I couldn't get it to budge.
 
#11 ·
bumper

Once you've got the main bolts out that hold it to the chassis just below each headlight, you can get access to them from the little grille covers under the indicators and from removing the indicators as well. The bumper should slide forward bare in mind it's a few years old so probably never been off so will be very stiff. They are like big bolt with a washer attached to it to help keep the bumper guide on it. So once the big bolts are off it will just slide forwards. Oh might be some little bolts and screws on the underneath you may have to take off as well can't remember what it looks like been ages since I've seen one that's stock!! lol!!

Lowering springs will easily drop you -30-40mm so the coilovers will have you sitting way lower than you are now!! And yes the stock suspension is very comfy yet surprisingly grippy still! lol!
Which trackday you planning on going to? Just make sure you put in a high quality synthetic oil before hand and change the tranny oil put in Honda MTF not engine oil as recommended by the manual it will eat the syncro's. You can also fit a B16 LSD inside these boxes as well if you get a bit more into the engine mods later on!!

As far as engine mods go never too late to learn they really aren't that hard to deal with!! Also I'd check out your cambelt chances are it's never been changed unless previous owner has a receipt for the work already. Where did the car come from still shocked to see one so clean and original most have been either trashed, butchered or full of rust. Saw one in Coventry not so long ago with similar mileage but had just a bit too much rust than I was prepared to deal with but engine and interior were like new.
 
#16 ·
Once you've got the main bolts out that hold it to the chassis just below each headlight, you can get access to them from the little grille covers under the indicators and from removing the indicators as well. The bumper should slide forward bare in mind it's a few years old so probably never been off so will be very stiff. They are like big bolt with a washer attached to it to help keep the bumper guide on it. So once the big bolts are off it will just slide forwards. Oh might be some little bolts and screws on the underneath you may have to take off as well can't remember what it looks like been ages since I've seen one that's stock!! lol!!

Lowering springs will easily drop you -30-40mm so the coilovers will have you sitting way lower than you are now!! And yes the stock suspension is very comfy yet surprisingly grippy still! lol!
Which trackday you planning on going to? Just make sure you put in a high quality synthetic oil before hand and change the tranny oil put in Honda MTF not engine oil as recommended by the manual it will eat the syncro's. You can also fit a B16 LSD inside these boxes as well if you get a bit more into the engine mods later on!!

As far as engine mods go never too late to learn they really aren't that hard to deal with!! Also I'd check out your cambelt chances are it's never been changed unless previous owner has a receipt for the work already. Where did the car come from still shocked to see one so clean and original most have been either trashed, butchered or full of rust. Saw one in Coventry not so long ago with similar mileage but had just a bit too much rust than I was prepared to deal with but engine and interior were like new.
Thanks for the bumper info! I didn't even need to take the grille out just the two main 12mm headed bolts and the whole thing slid forward.

Fitted my UKDM 1986 Integra Lip this evening. I'll post some pics soon.

I've got two track sessions at the Spring action day at Castle combe and one session so far at Japfest at castle combe again.

B16 LSD! Noice, I'll be on the look out for one now! I Miss having an LSD!

Coilovers are a MUST.

Was the Coventry one white and on eBay? I've been watching a few!
 
#14 ·
Oo my goddddd emaculate 10 thumbs up
 
#15 ·
I would reply to your PM but apparently I haven't posted 10 times so it won't let me reply so I'll just reply on here.

'Aiight bro, First of all turn ya caps lock off, that shit's hard to read! lol

Yea I can take pics for ya no problem. These are pretty rare here and there isn't any here in the junk yards. My mate's about to scrap an 86 Integra so if there's any bits shared tell me now and I can save them for you!

What parts are different for a US car? I'd like some cup holders, Damn car doesn't have any! So annoying!'
 
#17 ·
B20A lude

Yeah in some dodgy car dealer! lol! Wanted way too much money for the rust it had!!
Worth keeping the teggy gearbox I might have it off you for spares as the internals will fit inside my 12 valves gearbox. I have one already but will probably need rebuilding in another 10-15k miles time so handy to have some spares if it's a good box already. Whats the mileage on the teggy?
 
#22 ·
Found my self a complete BARGAIN!

VERY rare set of Rennsport Carving Stark II's which are made by Work wheels Japan.

3 Piece split rims.

Refurbished and have brand new T1-Rs on.





Then fitted my coilover sleeves! Didn't even bother with the adjuster part on the rear, just swapped the springs lol

I LOVE the results! :D 100% happy chappie!








 
#27 ·
coilovers

Well they can go pretty low but I'd be definately changing the spring rates mine are for track and are 550lb fronts and 650lb rears not sure what that is in KG's I think for road use 550lb fronts and 400lb rears would be much better but still give excellent road use, if you wanted softer for comfort then 450lb front and 300lb rear but would get a bit of roll and also quite a bit of wheel movement on bumps and stuff and rear bogging down under hard acceleration.
 
#30 ·
Well they can go pretty low but I'd be definately changing the spring rates mine are for track and are 550lb fronts and 650lb rears not sure what that is in KG's I think for road use 550lb fronts and 400lb rears would be much better but still give excellent road use, if you wanted softer for comfort then 450lb front and 300lb rear but would get a bit of roll and also quite a bit of wheel movement on bumps and stuff and rear bogging down under hard acceleration.
They have said they will come with 450 front and 200 rear which equates to 8Kgs and 3.5Kgs.

Pretty soft! Might ask to have harder rears.

Sucks they are gonna take 3 weeks to be produced.

god damn i love ur lude hey is there any way u have extra parts laying around im in need of some parts
Thanks man. Umm only parts I have are ones I'll be taking off.

she's a beauty! :)
Many thanks! I LOVE it!





Anyone know how to get the standard Cassette Radio out?
 
#28 ·
god damn i love ur lude hey is there any way u have extra parts laying around im in need of some parts
 
#31 ·
springs

Yeah way too soft on the rear I'd definately want something stiffer on the back to dial out the understeer, also increasing the camber on the front to around -3 to -3.5 will help get rid of the nasty understeer on these cars too.

Probably start with springs around 500lb front and 400lb rear and see how that goes, if a bit too hard then go 450lb front and 350lb rear but I'd imagine 400lb would be fine mine are way harder and I can drive it on the road still although it does loosen fillings lol! also bit dicey in the wet if you have to emergency brake mid corner!! Great on race track though.

3 weeks is pretty good to be honest I had to wait longer as they had to make them up, you'll have to DIY some brackets to fit the hoses on, might be good idea to get some braided hoses too but again little bit of fab work needed on the front ones. On my coilovers I just zip tied the hoses to them! lol! Ghetto but works and is nice and light!! :)

It's nice being able to adjust the damping too without having to strip the shocks down, my previous Koni's were pain had to pull apart whole strut then sink the shaft down and twist to adjust harder/softer. Fine when you've found your optimum setting but then if you go to the track and find it's too soft you have to spend ages changing it again.
 
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