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Old 01-08-2017, 10:16 PM   #26
SHLuding
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So a quick update on some of my plans, I am searching for an even more refined ride. As a result I am going to look into getting some Swift springs at potentially a lower spring rate as well. I am going to talk with some of the guys over at FRSport tomorrow for some advice. I have a friend who works there who can help with part prices as well so thats nice.

If you haven't heard of swift springs, i would recommend looking them up. They are making some pretty interesting claims. They say that their springs are able to increase ride quality even at the same spring rate. Here is the link to their website as they can explain it better than I can. http://www.swiftsprings.net/tech/advantage.html

I probably will end up getting a set of their springs and will be able to post my thoughts here in direct comparison with the BC's stock springs. Its will also be useful because BC will let you order their coils with Swift springs pre-installed. All the more things to think about.

In the mean time, here is an Integra Type R I found and took a few photos of. I have never seen one in person so it was cool to see such a legendary FWD car with my own eyes.







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Old 01-22-2017, 06:31 PM   #27
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Wash, Wax, and Wheels

A few days back I decided to give the car a really nice detail before I had to go back to college. I spent four hours washing, clay-baring, and waxing the old girl. It was a lot of work but wow. The results were incredible. It was my first time clay-baring a car and it was amazing to me how much dirt it was able to pick up. The paint would feel as smooth as if I had just waxed it when I ran the clay bar over it. Definitely worth the extra time.

These first two photos were right before I was about to remove the wax.





This was the next day once all the detailing was finished. The shine was just incredible. The whole car looked like that back pillar in this photo.



Then a picture of two JDM legends on the same driveway. Thats a 97 lexus SC300 factory 5 speed car in case any of you were wondering. I bought it and ended up selling it to my dad.



Then a bit of a snap decision. At my college, modified cars often times get broken in to. As a result I dont really want to get the white work wheels for my car until I graduate in a few years. If I were to put them on now, it would kinda make the car stand out a bit more than I want right now. Then when a saw these 17inch Acura RSX type S wheels for sale, I decided to go ahead and get them. They will look a lot better than stock but still look stock. A very subtle upgrade. I have always liked them too.

The specs are 17x7 with a +45mm offset. Really nice specs for our cars. Two of them have brand new Hankook ventus V12 EVO 2 tires on them which are sized 215-45-R17. I am gonna see how that size works. Its only half an inch larger in total diameter so I am not too concerned. Time will tell.



In other news, I am going to go ahead and order some swift springs for the car. I am also going to order the parts to make some adjustable sway bar end links soon. Once I get those and a camber kit for the front I will then take my car to get corner balanced. That will have all the suspension work finished. Thats all for the moment. Thanks for reading.

Last edited by SHLuding; 02-03-2017 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 01-25-2017, 03:20 AM   #28
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Great progress on the car - interested to see once the wheels have been fitted!
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Old 01-29-2017, 10:47 PM   #29
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The Brake Job

So, the other day when I was backing up, I heard a squealing coming from the rear of my car. It took me a few times of hearing it to realize that it was the metal brake pad tabs grinding on my rotors. This was naturally due to my brake pads being worn down. I finally got to install my full EBC rotor kit that I have had for probably 6 or more months just sitting in my garage.

The rotor kit is the one that you can order off of extreme prelude.com. It gives you 4 EBC USR slotted rotors and then 2 sets of EBC green stuff brake pads (1 set for the front and the other for the rear).

Here is the rear in its stock, worn out form.



The install is pretty basic. Nothing fancy. Just like doing a brake job with OEM parts. The fit of everything was good.

This is a picture of the rotor installed somewhat incorrectly. As you can see the holes for the rotor screws are obscured by the rotor. Thats because I initially forgot about the rotor screws and just put the rotor on randomly without trying to line up the holes. I went back and fixed it though.



The rear green stuff pads.



Front rotors and pads installed!



Then a picture after a quick initial test drive. Notice how the black coating wears off. The rotors now are silver just like every other brake rotor.



Whilst I was doing brake work I also flushed the whole brake system and put in some fresh Valvoline dot 3 and 4 brake fluid. The old stuff didnt look too bad but I still had no idea when it was last done. Figured I would do it just so I can keep a consistent interval on it for the future.

I wish I could tell you how I liked the brakes. But EBC recommends a 1000 mile break-in period before doing any sporty or hard braking. So I will report back on anything I find after that milestone has passed. I will be curious to see how long the pads last and how much dust they produce too. Either way I will find out, but for the moment that is all. Thanks for reading.
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:02 AM   #30
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Very nice looking car!

You were asking what made the biggest difference earlier..... a big one is tires! Good tires can make all the difference on a car.

I'm using Bridgestone RE760's. I love them. I gave them a try because Honda tends to supply Bridgestones as OEM's. I think they really do match well to the car. I had some BFGoodrich (their really aggressive tire from a number of years back) and Falken 612's (one of my favorite tires) on previously. The Bridgestones are a marked improvement over either of those.
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:09 PM   #31
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Very nice looking car!

You were asking what made the biggest difference earlier..... a big one is tires! Good tires can make all the difference on a car.

I'm using Bridgestone RE760's. I love them. I gave them a try because Honda tends to supply Bridgestones as OEM's. I think they really do match well to the car. I had some BFGoodrich (their really aggressive tire from a number of years back) and Falken 612's (one of my favorite tires) on previously. The Bridgestones are a marked improvement over either of those.
Thank you! Yeah tires make a pretty big difference, however when I bought the car it had a brand new set of "thunderererereres" on it. Only Taiwan's finest set of rubber. As a result I almost feel compelled to wear them down. When I finally need to put tires on I plan on going with a nice set of performance Michelins. Ever had any experience with any of their super sport tires? Heck tires make more of a difference than coil overs I bet. I appreciate the input.

Last edited by SHLuding; 02-01-2017 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 02-05-2017, 02:00 AM   #32
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Custom Sway Bar Endlinks

So today I spent my time making the custom sway bar endlinks. I got all my info off of this thread http://www.preludeonline.com/f60/mak...t-rear-255186/

I ordered 8 of the studded female rod ends off of MSC's website part #73202160. That was easily the most expensive part. For those 8 links it was 90 dollars. They seem to be quality though, they have nylon races as opposed to metal on metal like some others and they are rated for 3000lbs of force so they are plenty strong.

Then for the grade 8 threaded rod and all 24 washers and 16 nuts it cost me another 24 bucks at my local industrial hardware store. I also bought a can of paint to spray the threaded rods so they wont rust.

All in all for 4 endlinks I paid $120 dollars tax and all. Not too bad honestly. If you have any questions about how to make them or where I bought my parts feel free to ask. I am happy to help.
ST sway bar after being removed from the car.


The mighty endlinks.




After the initial test drive they are not making any noise so currently they are good. I think the real interesting part will be seeing how long those endlinks last before starting to make noise. The car is currently at 110,140 miles on the clock so ill start counting the miles. We will find out. Overall A successful day.

Last edited by SHLuding; 02-05-2017 at 02:10 AM.
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Old 02-09-2017, 01:28 AM   #33
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Cam Cap Seal and Timing Belt Fun

So, I have a leaky cam cap seal because why not. These seem to start leaking around the 100k mark so I figured I would replace it. Its the last oil leak on the car that hasnt been resolved.

The start


Some stuff removed


Valve cover off


At this moment I notice my timing belt was right on the edge of the cam gear. I pushed it back to center just out of instinct and didnt think much of it.


Cam retainer plate removed


Golden Eagle Cam seal compared to the old dried out stocker


Re-torqued the plate in 3 steps with my new favorite tool. Its a CDI 3/8 torque wrench and it works very well. Way better than the stupid craftsman microclicker one that broke on me after 20 or so uses.


Then when I went to put on the new valve cover gasket I noticed some small rubber shreds on this part the valve cover. I remembered how the timing belt was kinda far over on the cam gears and I began to worry that the belt was rubbing on the valve cover.




Then I went back to look at the timing belt and although it is normal to see some of the bands on the side of the belt, these looked as though they had been rubbed against.


Here is the other side of the belt for reference.


I figured I would take it to the honda dealership and see what they had to say as it was still under warranty from when the previous owners had it done by the dealership up north. I subsequently buttoned up the rest of the job.





UPDATE:
I went and talked with my local honda dealer today and they were less than helpful. I need more concrete proof before they are willing to take warranty steps so I am going to pull the valve cover off again and check to see how close to the edge of the cam gears the belt really is and I am also going to clean out the small rubber shreds and see if they come back after a thousand miles of driving. If the belt is rubbing it isn't badly because there is no noise and if the belt was off the side of the cam gear it was only by a few mm at most. I will know exactly when I pull the valve cover off again tomorrow. Ill post some more pics then. Any input on the issue from you guys is always appreciated.

Last edited by SHLuding; 02-09-2017 at 01:42 AM.
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Old 02-09-2017, 09:28 AM   #34
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You're fine. The timing belts almost always ride to one edge or the other. It's probably not even wearing against the cover, it's probably just running against the guide further down. It's just flinging the tiny bit of rubber that gets rubbed off everywhere.
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Old 02-09-2017, 10:57 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by BA5 View Post
You're fine. The timing belts almost always ride to one edge or the other. It's probably not even wearing against the cover, it's probably just running against the guide further down. It's just flinging the tiny bit of rubber that gets rubbed off everywhere.
Well that makes me feel a bit better. I still want to make sure though. The thought of timing belt failure on this car scares me quite a bit.
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Old 02-10-2017, 02:30 AM   #36
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My old and new timing belt rubs very slightly in the exact same place on the timing cover.

Don't think it is an issue at all.
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Old 02-10-2017, 04:53 AM   #37
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Picture of the cam belt i just replaced, had 60 000KM on it.



You can also see some rubber dust in the cam cover

Belt also appeared in really good condition after 60K.
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Old 02-10-2017, 11:23 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Tintin10 View Post
My old and new timing belt rubs very slightly in the exact same place on the timing cover.

Don't think it is an issue at all.
Wow. Thanks for the photos. That really helps to put my mind at ease. I guess I probably dont have a problem then.
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Old 02-12-2017, 09:47 PM   #39
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More Timing Belt Fun

So I pulled the valve cover today to see if the belt was off the cam gears at all. This is what I found.


So as you can see that is how much the belt is off the cam gear. I realize its small. Maybe a mm. The question is, is this an issue? Thanks for the input.
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Old 02-13-2017, 01:08 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by SHLuding View Post
More Timing Belt Fun

So I pulled the valve cover today to see if the belt was off the cam gears at all. This is what I found.


So as you can see that is how much the belt is off the cam gear. I realize its small. Maybe a mm. The question is, is this an issue? Thanks for the input.
Mine runs about the same. Have read other threads where people have had the same story. Em pretty sure its not an issue.
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Old 02-16-2017, 01:12 AM   #41
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Swift Spring Install

I decided to go ahead and pull the trigger on these guys. Basically any component that claims to increase performance AND ride quality is something that I cant live without on my car. I did end up going with a 1k softer spring up front too in and effort to also help with ride quality. So my rates are now 9K front 5K rear.

Here they are in all their glory the Swift Springs.


I do like the color.


Here is the part number for the springs. The first number (65) references the diameter of the spring. The second number (22 references the length. The last number is the spring rate (050) or 5K. These are the rear springs.


Part number for the front springs.


Swift front spring compared to the BC front spring.


Here you can see the difference in the two front springs. Notice how many fewer coils the swift has. It is shorter which isnt an issue in my case. The shock will still bottom out long before the spring will.


Noticeable difference in metal thickness as well.


Swift spring installed on the front BC coil. The spring swap is pretty straight forward.


I used this video for reference.

Front installed.


Rear installed.


I put jack stands underneath the control arms and lowered the car onto them with all the bolts in place but loose. Then once the suspension was at its static ride height, I torqued the bolts to spec. This is to prevent twisting your bushings.


I measured the ride height of the car before I removed the old springs and installed the swifts and made the adjustments accordingly to keep my alignment exactly how it was. The car is at the exact same ride height at all four corners.

How do they feel?
Well in case you can't tell I am a newb. The car definitely rides better. There were certain portions of the freeway that were quite bad that are noticeably smoother. Frankly the ride is the main reason I got the springs. It is not a night and day difference though. As far as handling goes, I do admit this could be entirely in my head, I think it does handle better. I cant put my finger on exactly what changed but I prefer whatever its doing now to whatever it was doing. That's honestly the best way I can put it.

Are they worth the money?
For 300 bucks, id say so. If your concerns are about ride quality they will help and daily comfort is hard to put a price on. Like I said, they do feel as if the car handles better too. So when you get an increase in performance and ride quality, that is a pretty hard combination to say no to.

Knowing what you know now, how would you order the coils from BC?
Yes I would. As long as you dial in the settings on the knobs such that they match with the springs rates the whole setup rides decently. Obviously its going to be stiffer but I feel my car is quite comfortable for what it is. My mother even said she liked it and she is used to a Toyota Avalon so if that isn't enough proof for you I don't know what else is.

Well thats all for this install. If you have any questions just ask. I am happy to try to answer them as best I can.

Last edited by SHLuding; 04-17-2017 at 12:32 AM.
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Old 02-19-2017, 09:30 PM   #42
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Would You Like Some Rice with Your LED's?

Seems like I enjoy the small stuff most on these cars. It doesnt get much smaller than installing some simple LED lights just to help update the look of the car. I got all these ones off of amazon for 12 bucks. They seem to be good quality.

Here are the amazon links:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Before


After










Cleaning the license plate lens assembly










The car looks quite a lot better with all the lights matching. Its a small thing, but sometimes I think the little stuff is the most enjoyable. Just one more step forward to making my perfect prelude. As always, any questions, feel free to ask.
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Old 02-21-2017, 11:21 PM   #43
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More Timing Belt Fun

So I pulled the valve cover today to see if the belt was off the cam gears at all. This is what I found.


So as you can see that is how much the belt is off the cam gear. I realize its small. Maybe a mm. The question is, is this an issue? Thanks for the input.
It actually is an issue. The oem tensioner pulley assembly tends to deflect from the pressure of the hydraulic tensioner, especially with some mileage on the motor. When I first found out on mine, there was half a belt left and my timing cover was worn through. In fact I first thought the whole center bolt might have been bent slightly, but I think the assembly may have just been exaggerated from having 200k on it. A few thousandths is all it takes. But ive seen this on multiple engines just from my work experience.

I solved this problem by converting to a manual tensioner setup. However its noted that installing new belts can be a pita because the tensioner pulley on the manual setup is slightly larger.

KSTuned has also documented this issue, though from a different reason. They created a manual tensioner for the auto setup, but they found the deflection issue when people started over tightening. They "solved" it with an add-on guide to the tensioner pulley that keeps the belt from slipping off track. But my issue is its still friction on the belt however minimal it might be. As I go through my own rebuild, ill personally be keeping my manual setup.
Hope this helps

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Old 02-22-2017, 01:41 AM   #44
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It actually is an issue. The oem tensioner pulley assembly tends to deflect from the pressure of the hydraulic tensioner, especially with some mileage on the motor. When I first found out on mine, there was half a belt left and my timing cover was worn through. In fact I first thought the whole center bolt might have been bent slightly, but I think the assembly may have just been exaggerated from having 200k on it. A few thousandths is all it takes. But ive seen this on multiple engines just from my work experience.

I solved this problem by converting to a manual tensioner setup. However its noted that installing new belts can be a pita because the tensioner pulley on the manual setup is slightly larger.

KSTuned has also documented this issue, though from a different reason. They created a manual tensioner for the auto setup, but they found the deflection issue when people started over tightening. They "solved" it with an add-on guide to the tensioner pulley that keeps the belt from slipping off track. But my issue is its still friction on the belt however minimal it might be. As I go through my own rebuild, ill personally be keeping my manual setup.
Hope this helps

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7Cz87VRoTw
Well this conflicts me even more. I took the car to the honda dealership and showed a mechanic the photo. I spent a considerable amount of time talking with him about the issue. In the end he said that if there was a major issue with the belt installation, it would have shredded itself a while ago. He basically said that since I had driven 7k on the belt and it was still fine, that it was good. He even came out and looked at the car to see if he could hear any abnormal noises coming from the timing belt area. He said it sounded good. He said he was confident it would go another 90k miles. So should I go back and argue with them some more? Mind you, I am not talking with the honda dealership that did the work. They are up in san francisco.
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Old 02-22-2017, 12:38 PM   #45
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Well this conflicts me even more. I took the car to the honda dealership and showed a mechanic the photo. I spent a considerable amount of time talking with him about the issue. In the end he said that if there was a major issue with the belt installation, it would have shredded itself a while ago. He basically said that since I had driven 7k on the belt and it was still fine, that it was good. He even came out and looked at the car to see if he could hear any abnormal noises coming from the timing belt area. He said it sounded good. He said he was confident it would go another 90k miles. So should I go back and argue with them some more? Mind you, I am not talking with the honda dealership that did the work. They are up in san francisco.
In all honesty, this is the difference between dealership work, and private shop work. Allow me to explain, as im speaking from personal work experience:

Dealerships are vastly limited by the things they can and cant do. Perhaps not from a manufacturer standpoint, but more of an individual company policy, especially when it filters down at the technician level. 99% of the time, the dealer wont go out of their way to address an issue that isnt officially supported by the manufacturer like a TSB or Recall, and thats mainly because they are forced to at that point. OR, if they do, it'll be on the customer's dime, and even then they'll only use factory parts. Anything outside of that, and its basically invisible to them.

However, you can bring your own parts to the dealer and have them install it, but this gives them an excuse to take your money and not provide a warranty. And perhaps its rightly so as they cannot be responsible for what aftermarket parts do outside of factory specs. For example if you wanted them to install that belt guide, they would say hey, that alters the factory setup... we wont touch that.... at least not without making you sign a waver. Even though the manual setup comes from an H23, they'll dance around it and tell you oh well we cant look that up without a vin number blah blah blah

So at this point, the dealer technician wont tell you anything conflicting with the company standpoint even if he knows better. If he did, he could lose his job if he says something different than what the service writer says or anybody else. Or he simply may not know better lol. Technicians at the dealership are no more or less qualified than professionals at any private shop. A quick google search on H22 belt walk will show this isnt an isolated issue. I even found somebody else who was missing half the belt too.

Private shops have a bit more flexibility, especially performance driven shops. In fact a lot of them are fairly reasonable in price compared to other normal repair shops. In any case, its easier to deal with things like this with private shops. I would start having some conversations and find a reputable place.

Now, if you really want to push it with the dealer, common sense says that a timing belt should NOT be contacting anything other than the pulleys that drive it. If you have reason to believe that its rubbing against the cover or anything else, then its something I wouldnt ignore. Take pictures of your timing cover too if there are marks on it. If you push hard enough, you might be able to get them to tear it down, and install that belt guide on their own dime if you buy the part. You really gotta stand firm though. Dont give them any reason to say no. Even then.... you may not win.
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Old 02-28-2017, 01:10 AM   #46
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Berkeley To San Francisco To San Jose To Home

So over the four day weekend I decided to take a road trip up to see my buddy who goes to college at Berkeley. It was a really fun trip and I got to spend some quality time alone with my car on the road. Its something I have wanted to do for a while. I put about 900 miles on the car round trip. It was everything I hoped it would be really. The car was comfortable the whole way there on the BC coils. Best of all I got the best MPG i have ever gotten in one of these cars. It came in at 28.5 mpg.

After I spent all of Saturday in San Francisco, I woke up early Sunday to drive to San Jose to meet up with one of my favorite YouTubers. His channel name is Zygrene and I would describe him as a kinda grass roots Matt Farah where he reviews cars in the canyons. He is a big honda fan too and he rolled up in an NSX so that was cool. I met him on top of a mountain in San Jose where I took a few photos.













After I took a few photos he started the review process on my car in its current state. He just posted the review today, so here it is.


He seemed to really like the car, frankly a lot more than I was expecting myself so that was cool. Overall It was a really fun experience and I would recommend anyone go check out his channel.

After that review I drove home and immediately felt the need to wash all 900 miles of road grime off of my car.





I am pleased to say the car ran like a top. Overall it was a great trip I got to take with the prelude and it will certainly be one for the books.
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Old 03-01-2017, 04:37 AM   #47
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Great post. I recently watched Zygrene's 1st prelude review and was impressed. I think smoking tire has also done a review of the prelude. It seems to get good reviews all round.

Its also great to see that there are a few good condition OEM+ preludes still running with relatively low mileage. I am so tempted to do the BC coils however the Rand/Dollar exchange is currently 13:1.
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Old 03-01-2017, 06:41 AM   #48
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i also see on your list of mods to do is Exedy OEM clutch kit. I have just installed one on my car which i imported from Rock Auto. My thoughts on the clutch is that it's slightly soft and would prefer a more solid engagement. It might be worth considering the OEM Honda pressure plate and clutch disk or the stage 1 from Exedy.

The OEM Honda disk has a slightly different pattern on it which means that the OEM one from Exedy is not the same one they supply to Honda (if they supply Honda OEM).

Below Honda disk i removed from my car with 150 000km on it:



this is the new Exedy disk:



Guys also recommend the Honda release bearing instead of the exedy, however i have used the Exedy one and haven't had any issues yet but only done 3000km.

I can't remember if you have done cam belt and water pump? If not it may be worth doing at some point. Oh and the tensioner!
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Old 03-01-2017, 11:53 AM   #49
SHLuding
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Thank you! Indeed it really does seem to get good reviews. It certainly does feel like a special car to me. Especially in comparison to the other ones I have driven. But yes the timing belt was done on my car by the dealership about 9000 miles ago. All new waterpump, tensioner, and belts. It was right before I bought the car actually.

As far as the clutch goes, I have had a few Exedy OEM clutches, they are a touch softer than OEM but I never did mind it. I had mine paired up with an Mfactory 10lb flywheel and once I got the thing installed right, I loved it. My car currently has a new OEM honda clutch in it, and if I remember right, the engagement seems to be about the same as the Exedy. So make of that what you will.

Yeah I understand about wanting the BC's. On my old car I wanted those the entire time I owned the thing, but it needed mechanical work so I could just never justify spending that when the stock suspension was decent. If I were you though, I would definitely call BC before you order the suspension and ask them to recommend you spring rates based on the sort of drivng you do mostly. I think the stock 10K front 5k rear is a bit stiff for daily driving. If you do that I think you will be quite happy with them. Also the swift springs are a good thing to consider as well.
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Old 03-21-2017, 02:02 AM   #50
SHLuding
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A Mild Audio Upgrade

I plan on doing a full speaker system in this car in the future. I want to go with a 5 channel amp and a small sub where the spare tire is etc. Part of that system involves putting component JBL speakers all the way around.

While browsing online prices a found a deal on these JBL club 9600 component speakers and decided to pull the trigger. They are a 6x9 component setup which include two titanium dome tweeters along with two crossovers and a bunch of mounting hardware. Upon pulling them out of the package I was amazed at how light they were. Especially compared to the 6x9 kicker 3 way DS series speakers they were replacing.

Here are some pictures of the crossover and its wiring into the stock system.






Here are the speakers mounted in their home.


Now with the odd spacing of the holes on the JBL speakers there isnt really a good way to get screws through all four holes, at least not easily. As a result I simply used one stock hole and drilled my own on another and used two diagonally opposite of each other. This seems to work well and the speakers do not vibrate at all.

Here is how the stock speaker grill must be cut to accommodate aftermarket speakers. I used a dremel and it was easy enough.



Here is how I mounted things below. Forgive the untidiness and the super long screw. I went back and fixed that the following day with some zipties and a cutoff wheel.



They sound really quite nice. I was amazed at how much bass I got back and just general clarity. Those kicker speakers did have bad reviews but I didnt realize there would be such a difference. It is most likely the difference between a cheap coaxial and a quality component speaker. I cant wait to hear how they sound once hooked up to a decent amplifier. Only time will tell I guess.

Last edited by SHLuding; 03-21-2017 at 06:00 PM.
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