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How to: Replace Oil Cooler O-Ring

184K views 202 replies 97 participants last post by  twinsmilies 
#1 · (Edited)
Alright here's the deal. I know that myself and a few others are having some oil leak issues. For myself, it is the oil cooler O-ring. To determine whether or not this may be your problem, jack up your car, start it up and get underneath. Use a flashlight to look up at the oil filter, and the oil cooler (the part which the oil filter screws on to). For me, there is a constant drip coming from between the block and the oil cooler, so it was pretty easy to determine the cause of my problem.

-A quick note before we begin. Using the right tool for the job should be paramount. I can't tell you how many times I've come across friends who have used the wrong tool for the job, and got themselves into deeper shit than they started in. Common mistakes are wrong sized screw drivers, which often lead to stripped screws, or wrong sized sockets, which lead to stripped bolts. Always do yourself a favor and make sure you USE THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB

(image originally linked by THEJGB3)


In the picture, the oil cooler is part #16(base model) #17(type SH). The oil cooler O-ring itself is part #32.

The listed part number @ LINK is 91316-PT6-003

I purchased mine from Herb Chambers Honda in Seekonk MA. The Honda part number is 91316-PE7-730


Here's how I'm doing it. First and foremost, drain the oil. Your car could use an oil change anyway. Don't argue with me, just drain it. After the flow of oil has stopped, remove the oil filter. This exposes the bolt which you need to remove.


^Oil Filter (keep in mind gentlemen this is not a BRAND DEBATE, just keep making remarks about my having to stop halfway through this write-up and leave the brands out of it! :D ) You can see the little drip of oil there on the oil cooler itself.

The bolt is a 30mm, and you'll do better with a deep socket. Please, please, please, save yourself the trouble. DO NOT USE ADJUSTABLE WRENCHES ON THIS. It will only strip this bolt and make you cry a little on the inside. Removing the bolt is pretty straightforward, so do it. Lefty loosey righty tighty.


^Bolt removed

At this point the oil cooler is free, and you can swivel it around a bit.


^There you can see how much you can move the oil cooler, and where the old O-ring sits.

To remove the old O-Ring, I ended up using a razor, stuck it into the side of the O-ring, and used leverage to pry it out.


^My old O-ring was very brittle, it snapped coming out

Putting the new O-Ring on: Just like the oil filter O-ring, stick your finger in some oil and lube this baby up. The oil on the O-ring will help it stay in place while you're fiddling around lining up the bolt.


^New O-ring in and sitting pretty.

At this point, you've got the new O-ring on, and are ready to tighten down the 30mm bolt. If you've got a torque wrench handy, torque the sucker down to 54 lbs-ft. If not, keep in mind you can damage components by over-tightening.

Now that I've finished, tiny bits of rep are appreciated. Take your cheap shots in the rep too, as well as the thread ;)

-=PHOTOS=-


 
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#169 ·
Go to Lowes and pick one up one for like $4-6. It doesn't really matter which one you get. 12 point is useful for tight spaces due to more ways to turn the socket to connect, but it has a tendency to strip bolts, and the opposite is a 6 point. I think autozone has a 30mm socket which is like $14-$15 and it's a deep socket. I don't think you need a deep socket for this.
 
#180 ·
I have an 88 2.0Si and my oil cooler or the freeze plug that the one cooler hose goes to is starting to seep coolant. I've bought a new o-ring so I can take it apart and look at it. Could possibly be one of the steel lines of the cooler starting to corrode through and if that's the case I'll weld on some new ones. If it's the freeze plug fitting, I'm not sure what to do then. Does it thread in with an o-ring seal or is it like a normal freeze plug and just pressed in? Also, are they still available? Anybody else, ever have this problem?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
#182 ·
Finally changed my Oil cooler o ring while changing the oil and oil filter. I used a short socket. Worked just fine. I didnt have too much trouble putting the new o ring in and keeping on, I just had to hold it in place with my fingers and carefully lay it on. I started to engine when I was done and I do now see any leaks anymore. But I will check again next week. Thanks for the write up guys.
 
#183 ·
Oil Cooler O-ring: Type SH

I hope nobody minds, but I just did this on my Type SH, so I thought I'd add the Type SH version to the writeup.

The SH takes the same o-ring as the base, so no problems there. It is probably a bit more of a PITA than the base, but in the end, it really wasn't too bad.

I went out and got my o-ring and 30mm deepwell socket:


I already had it, but a 3" extension also helps with this, as you'll see in a minute. Remove the oil filter and you can just see the oil cooler bolt behind the block.

Note: So far all of this is best done from above (but you probably already knew that).



Get your socket and 3" extension and remove the bolt. It's hard to get the socket square on the bolt, just keep rocking it around until if feels like you have good engagement. Luckily the bolt isn't super tight, even after 170k miles.



You can see the extension helps get your ratchet wrench off the back of the block.

Remove the bolt.



Pull the oil cooler back from the block. It's only attached by rubber hoses now, and they have a bit of flex. Just don't overdo it.

The next parts I found to be easier to do through the wheel well. Take off the driver's side front wheel and you'll be able to see right through to the o-ring side of the oil cooler. Remove the o-ring. You'll probably need a pick of some sort to do this, as the o-ring is hard plastic now and very difficult to remove. Just be careful not to damage the groove with your pick.



This is the view through the wheel well with the oil cooler pulled back a bit. I've already got the o-ring out.



Now I may step into it a bit here, but I highly recommend you DO NOT use gasket maker or anything like that to hold the o-ring in. Yes it'll probably work, but odds are good your o-ring leaks at least a little bit now, even if it's no longer a catastrophic leak. This is my input as a professional engineer that actually designs o-ring seals.

What I recommend instead is assembly lube:



Glob on as much as you want: it holds it well and won't affect the o-ring seal.



You can see I have the o-ring in the groove in the above picture. MAKE SURE IT IS STUCK IN THE GROOVE. Do this by pressing the oil cooler against the block where it mounts a few times. If it falls out, then the o-ring was not in the groove the whole way. If you don't have it in very well, it will slip out and you will pinch it when you put everything back together. You will find this out when you start the car up and it still gushes oil. Then you will have to buy a new o-ring and repeat the process!

Put the bolt back through the cooler and tighten to 54 lb-ft of torque. Put an oil filter back on, start it up, and check for leaks.

Allowing your cat to steal the o-ring for whatever diabolical machine it is working on is optional.





It's not the worst fix to perform, but it is a bit of a pain. Good luck!
 
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#185 ·
Thank youu

I hope nobody minds, but I just did this on my Type SH, so I thought I'd add the Type SH version to the writeup.

I just signed up today to say thanks to everyone who posted here. I was in a bind and thought my car was gonna need hundreds of dollars to fix it but the DIY guides brought this repair cost down to $5 and a little bit of effort...well a lot of patience keeping that o-ring in place!

thanks everyone!
 
#186 ·
i had my 92 h22a prelude sitting on the driveway for 10min to warm up b4 i went to school. when i got home. i noticed an alarming amount of oil on the driveway. id say a shot glass full.

now i checked the dip stick and it was below both dots. i topped the oil off an put cardboard under the engine. its been sitting for 2 hours, and no oil has dripped anywhere. So if I turned the car on, I believe it would leak. ill let you know tomorrow. but what are these symptoms pointing to.

thanks
 
#187 ·
oil cooler o-ring not a hard job

easy fix just drain the oil, pull oil filter,remove 30mm bolt turn oil cooler very slightly put some vasoline or bearing grease on o ring to hold in place put nut on and snug up you can always tighten more if you dont have a torque wrench but mine went on with no problems. shop wanted $170-$200 for a repair that took me less than a hour and $5 o-ring and not one drop of oil lost good luck it not as hard as some of these postings and i am pretty good mechanically but not a mechanic. key is make sure o-ring stays in place a.k.a. vasoline and put some on your lips after you smile with success lol!!!!!
 
#188 · (Edited)
Just replaced my O ring on my 1999 base model. The original was the square type and difficult to get out because access. I used a pointed knife to stab the seal and then pry it out. I used a 18in bar to push up on the adapter (part 17) to turn it down where I could see what I was doing. The bar allowed enough room go get my hand up there with the knife. At this time the O ring cost $4.95 from Honda.
 
#189 ·
Just registered to thank xxfallacyxx for this great post. I had replaced the o-ring in my 1998 2.2 VTEC Auto prelude without any issue. The hardest part was to remove the oil filter! (my filter removal tool sucks!). I used a short 30 mm socket, it works fine and RTV to keep the oring in place. The oring failure was quite sudden, I was in a 50 km trip and suddenly saw a really sort flash in the oil warning light. When I stopped to check, the dipstick came dry!! almost all the oil was gone!! (I refilled oil and managed to get home). I always check the oil level and below my car when parked, but as this leak only happens when the car is running, I have learnt is a good practice to check below the car when the it is parked and idling :-D

Thanks again
 
#190 ·
Ok did this on mine today. Im going to guess either I pinched the oring which I checked it like 5 times that it was seated well and it appears I have a leak On the hose above the filter. Only leaks when it runs but the oill the oil does not go down the block and instead around the oil filter it appears at top and then comes down off it. Should I go ahead and do the oring and the hoses? Thoughts? Its a cheap part like 7.55 with tax at the dealership. What type of hose is that? :(
 
G
#195 ·
Thanks, but I couldn't take the bolt out :(

I tried this earlier today, but I couldn't remove the oil cooler bolt. it was too tight and i barely had any space or leverage underneath the car using the jack stands on both sides. I used a deep socket with a 1/2 wrench. i had to use my right hand to stabilize the socket and left hand is too weak to turn it. I was afraid i might strip the bolt at the same time. i was trying to see if i could reach it from the top of the hood, but there was no way i could get to it. this is on 2001 honda prelude vtec. how did u guys loosen the bolt... err.
 
#198 ·


I recently did this procedure on my 00 sh thinking it would fix it but after awhile I still had a leak present coming from that general area. If i may suggest, part #7 on the diagram, does that not sit on the back of part #13? It appears so to me and i would think that this gasket should be replaced as well. But of course this would only apply to the sh models. I am probably going to order it when I do my tune up. what do you guys think?
 
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