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Old 01-08-2017, 11:16 PM   #26
SHLuding
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So a quick update on some of my plans, I am searching for an even more refined ride. As a result I am going to look into getting some Swift springs at potentially a lower spring rate as well. I am going to talk with some of the guys over at FRSport tomorrow for some advice. I have a friend who works there who can help with part prices as well so thats nice.

If you haven't heard of swift springs, i would recommend looking them up. They are making some pretty interesting claims. They say that their springs are able to increase ride quality even at the same spring rate. Here is the link to their website as they can explain it better than I can. http://www.swiftsprings.net/tech/advantage.html

I probably will end up getting a set of their springs and will be able to post my thoughts here in direct comparison with the BC's stock springs. Its will also be useful because BC will let you order their coils with Swift springs pre-installed. All the more things to think about.

In the mean time, here is an Integra Type R I found and took a few photos of. I have never seen one in person so it was cool to see such a legendary FWD car with my own eyes.







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Old 01-22-2017, 07:31 PM   #27
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Wash, Wax, and Wheels

A few days back I decided to give the car a really nice detail before I had to go back to college. I spent four hours washing, clay-baring, and waxing the old girl. It was a lot of work but wow. The results were incredible. It was my first time clay-baring a car and it was amazing to me how much dirt it was able to pick up. The paint would feel as smooth as if I had just waxed it when I ran the clay bar over it. Definitely worth the extra time.

These first two photos were right before I was about to remove the wax.





This was the next day once all the detailing was finished. The shine was just incredible. The whole car looked like that back pillar in this photo.



Then a picture of two JDM legends on the same driveway. Thats a 97 lexus SC300 factory 5 speed car in case any of you were wondering. I bought it and ended up selling it to my dad.



Then a bit of a snap decision. At my college, modified cars often times get broken in to. As a result I dont really want to get the white work wheels for my car until I graduate in a few years. If I were to put them on now, it would kinda make the car stand out a bit more than I want right now. Then when a saw these 17inch Acura RSX type S wheels for sale, I decided to go ahead and get them. They will look a lot better than stock but still look stock. A very subtle upgrade. I have always liked them too.

The specs are 17x7 with a +45mm offset. Really nice specs for our cars. Two of them have brand new Hankook ventus V12 EVO 2 tires on them which are sized 215-45-R17. I am gonna see how that size works. Its only half an inch larger in total diameter so I am not too concerned. Time will tell.



In other news, I am going to go ahead and order some swift springs for the car. I am also going to order the parts to make some adjustable sway bar end links soon. Once I get those and a camber kit for the front I will then take my car to get corner balanced. That will have all the suspension work finished. Thats all for the moment. Thanks for reading.

Last edited by SHLuding; 02-04-2017 at 12:46 AM.
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Old 01-25-2017, 04:20 AM   #28
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Great progress on the car - interested to see once the wheels have been fitted!
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Old 01-29-2017, 11:47 PM   #29
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The Brake Job

So, the other day when I was backing up, I heard a squealing coming from the rear of my car. It took me a few times of hearing it to realize that it was the metal brake pad tabs grinding on my rotors. This was naturally due to my brake pads being worn down. I finally got to install my full EBC rotor kit that I have had for probably 6 or more months just sitting in my garage.

The rotor kit is the one that you can order off of extreme prelude.com. It gives you 4 EBC USR slotted rotors and then 2 sets of EBC green stuff brake pads (1 set for the front and the other for the rear).

Here is the rear in its stock, worn out form.



The install is pretty basic. Nothing fancy. Just like doing a brake job with OEM parts. The fit of everything was good.

This is a picture of the rotor installed somewhat incorrectly. As you can see the holes for the rotor screws are obscured by the rotor. Thats because I initially forgot about the rotor screws and just put the rotor on randomly without trying to line up the holes. I went back and fixed it though.



The rear green stuff pads.



Front rotors and pads installed!



Then a picture after a quick initial test drive. Notice how the black coating wears off. The rotors now are silver just like every other brake rotor.



Whilst I was doing brake work I also flushed the whole brake system and put in some fresh Valvoline dot 3 and 4 brake fluid. The old stuff didnt look too bad but I still had no idea when it was last done. Figured I would do it just so I can keep a consistent interval on it for the future.

I wish I could tell you how I liked the brakes. But EBC recommends a 1000 mile break-in period before doing any sporty or hard braking. So I will report back on anything I find after that milestone has passed. I will be curious to see how long the pads last and how much dust they produce too. Either way I will find out, but for the moment that is all. Thanks for reading.
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:02 AM   #30
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Very nice looking car!

You were asking what made the biggest difference earlier..... a big one is tires! Good tires can make all the difference on a car.

I'm using Bridgestone RE760's. I love them. I gave them a try because Honda tends to supply Bridgestones as OEM's. I think they really do match well to the car. I had some BFGoodrich (their really aggressive tire from a number of years back) and Falken 612's (one of my favorite tires) on previously. The Bridgestones are a marked improvement over either of those.
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:09 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by BA5 View Post
Very nice looking car!

You were asking what made the biggest difference earlier..... a big one is tires! Good tires can make all the difference on a car.

I'm using Bridgestone RE760's. I love them. I gave them a try because Honda tends to supply Bridgestones as OEM's. I think they really do match well to the car. I had some BFGoodrich (their really aggressive tire from a number of years back) and Falken 612's (one of my favorite tires) on previously. The Bridgestones are a marked improvement over either of those.
Thank you! Yeah tires make a pretty big difference, however when I bought the car it had a brand new set of "thunderererereres" on it. Only Taiwan's finest set of rubber. As a result I almost feel compelled to wear them down. When I finally need to put tires on I plan on going with a nice set of performance Michelins. Ever had any experience with any of their super sport tires? Heck tires make more of a difference than coil overs I bet. I appreciate the input.

Last edited by SHLuding; 02-02-2017 at 12:12 AM.
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Old 02-05-2017, 03:00 AM   #32
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Custom Sway Bar Endlinks

So today I spent my time making the custom sway bar endlinks. I got all my info off of this thread http://www.preludeonline.com/f60/mak...t-rear-255186/

I ordered 8 of the studded female rod ends off of MSC's website part #73202160. That was easily the most expensive part. For those 8 links it was 90 dollars. They seem to be quality though, they have nylon races as opposed to metal on metal like some others and they are rated for 3000lbs of force so they are plenty strong.

Then for the grade 8 threaded rod and all 24 washers and 16 nuts it cost me another 24 bucks at my local industrial hardware store. I also bought a can of paint to spray the threaded rods so they wont rust.

All in all for 4 endlinks I paid $120 dollars tax and all. Not too bad honestly. If you have any questions about how to make them or where I bought my parts feel free to ask. I am happy to help.
ST sway bar after being removed from the car.


The mighty endlinks.




After the initial test drive they are not making any noise so currently they are good. I think the real interesting part will be seeing how long those endlinks last before starting to make noise. The car is currently at 110,140 miles on the clock so ill start counting the miles. We will find out. Overall A successful day.

Last edited by SHLuding; 02-05-2017 at 03:10 AM.
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Old 02-09-2017, 02:28 AM   #33
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Cam Cap Seal and Timing Belt Fun

So, I have a leaky cam cap seal because why not. These seem to start leaking around the 100k mark so I figured I would replace it. Its the last oil leak on the car that hasnt been resolved.

The start


Some stuff removed


Valve cover off


At this moment I notice my timing belt was right on the edge of the cam gear. I pushed it back to center just out of instinct and didnt think much of it.


Cam retainer plate removed


Golden Eagle Cam seal compared to the old dried out stocker


Re-torqued the plate in 3 steps with my new favorite tool. Its a CDI 3/8 torque wrench and it works very well. Way better than the stupid craftsman microclicker one that broke on me after 20 or so uses.


Then when I went to put on the new valve cover gasket I noticed some small rubber shreds on this part the valve cover. I remembered how the timing belt was kinda far over on the cam gears and I began to worry that the belt was rubbing on the valve cover.




Then I went back to look at the timing belt and although it is normal to see some of the bands on the side of the belt, these looked as though they had been rubbed against.


Here is the other side of the belt for reference.


I figured I would take it to the honda dealership and see what they had to say as it was still under warranty from when the previous owners had it done by the dealership up north. I subsequently buttoned up the rest of the job.





UPDATE:
I went and talked with my local honda dealer today and they were less than helpful. I need more concrete proof before they are willing to take warranty steps so I am going to pull the valve cover off again and check to see how close to the edge of the cam gears the belt really is and I am also going to clean out the small rubber shreds and see if they come back after a thousand miles of driving. If the belt is rubbing it isn't badly because there is no noise and if the belt was off the side of the cam gear it was only by a few mm at most. I will know exactly when I pull the valve cover off again tomorrow. Ill post some more pics then. Any input on the issue from you guys is always appreciated.

Last edited by SHLuding; 02-09-2017 at 02:42 AM.
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Old 02-09-2017, 10:28 AM   #34
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You're fine. The timing belts almost always ride to one edge or the other. It's probably not even wearing against the cover, it's probably just running against the guide further down. It's just flinging the tiny bit of rubber that gets rubbed off everywhere.
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Old 02-09-2017, 11:57 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by BA5 View Post
You're fine. The timing belts almost always ride to one edge or the other. It's probably not even wearing against the cover, it's probably just running against the guide further down. It's just flinging the tiny bit of rubber that gets rubbed off everywhere.
Well that makes me feel a bit better. I still want to make sure though. The thought of timing belt failure on this car scares me quite a bit.
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Old 02-10-2017, 03:30 AM   #36
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My old and new timing belt rubs very slightly in the exact same place on the timing cover.

Don't think it is an issue at all.
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Old 02-10-2017, 05:53 AM   #37
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Picture of the cam belt i just replaced, had 60 000KM on it.



You can also see some rubber dust in the cam cover

Belt also appeared in really good condition after 60K.
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Old 02-10-2017, 12:23 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Tintin10 View Post
My old and new timing belt rubs very slightly in the exact same place on the timing cover.

Don't think it is an issue at all.
Wow. Thanks for the photos. That really helps to put my mind at ease. I guess I probably dont have a problem then.
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Old 02-12-2017, 10:47 PM   #39
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More Timing Belt Fun

So I pulled the valve cover today to see if the belt was off the cam gears at all. This is what I found.


So as you can see that is how much the belt is off the cam gear. I realize its small. Maybe a mm. The question is, is this an issue? Thanks for the input.
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Old 02-13-2017, 02:08 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by SHLuding View Post
More Timing Belt Fun

So I pulled the valve cover today to see if the belt was off the cam gears at all. This is what I found.


So as you can see that is how much the belt is off the cam gear. I realize its small. Maybe a mm. The question is, is this an issue? Thanks for the input.
Mine runs about the same. Have read other threads where people have had the same story. Em pretty sure its not an issue.
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Old 02-16-2017, 02:12 AM   #41
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Swift Spring Install

I decided to go ahead and pull the trigger on these guys. Basically any component that claims to increase performance AND ride quality is something that I cant live without on my car. I did end up going with a 1k softer spring up front too in and effort to also help with ride quality. So my rates are now 9K front 5K rear.

Here they are in all their glory the Swift Springs.


I do like the color.


Here is the part number for the springs. The first number (65) references the diameter of the spring. The second number (22 references the length. The last number is the spring rate (050) or 5K. These are the rear springs.


Part number for the front springs.


Swift front spring compared to the BC front spring.


Here you can see the difference in the two front springs. Notice how many fewer coils the swift has. It is shorter which isnt an issue in my case. The shock will still bottom out long before the spring will.


Noticeable difference in metal thickness as well.


Swift spring installed on the front BC coil. The spring swap is pretty straight forward.


I used this video for reference.

Front installed.


Rear installed.


I put jack stands underneath the control arms and lowered the car onto them with all the bolts in place but loose. Then once the suspension was at its static ride height, I torqued the bolts to spec. This is to prevent twisting your bushings.


I measured the ride height of the car before I removed the old springs and installed the swifts and made the adjustments accordingly to keep my alignment exactly how it was. The car is at the exact same ride height at all four corners.

How do they feel?
Well in case you can't tell I am a newb. The car definitely rides better. There were certain portions of the freeway that were quite bad that are noticeably smoother. Frankly the ride is the main reason I got the springs. It is not a night and day difference though. As far as handling goes, I do admit this could be entirely in my head, I think it does handle better. I cant put my finger on exactly what changed but I prefer whatever its doing now to whatever it was doing. That's honestly the best way I can put it.

Are they worth the money?
For 300 bucks, id say so. If your concerns are about ride quality they will help and daily comfort is hard to put a price on. Like I said, they do feel as if the car handles better too. So when you get an increase in performance and ride quality, that is a pretty hard combination to say no to.

Knowing what you know now, how would you order the coils from BC?
Eh, not sure I would actually order the coils from BC again. I think I would probably go with a Koni Ground Control setup. In fact I am actually considering switching. I just dont think I am gonna be able to get the ride quality I want out of these coilovers.

Well thats all for this install. If you have any questions just ask. I am happy to try to answer them as best I can.

Last edited by SHLuding; 02-16-2017 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 02-19-2017, 10:30 PM   #42
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Would You Like Some Rice with Your LED's?

Seems like I enjoy the small stuff most on these cars. It doesnt get much smaller than installing some simple LED lights just to help update the look of the car. I got all these ones off of amazon for 12 bucks. They seem to be good quality.

Here are the amazon links:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Before


After










Cleaning the license plate lens assembly










The car looks quite a lot better with all the lights matching. Its a small thing, but sometimes I think the little stuff is the most enjoyable. Just one more step forward to making my perfect prelude. As always, any questions, feel free to ask.
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Old Today, 12:21 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHLuding View Post
More Timing Belt Fun

So I pulled the valve cover today to see if the belt was off the cam gears at all. This is what I found.


So as you can see that is how much the belt is off the cam gear. I realize its small. Maybe a mm. The question is, is this an issue? Thanks for the input.
It actually is an issue. The oem tensioner pulley assembly tends to deflect from the pressure of the hydraulic tensioner, especially with some mileage on the motor. When I first found out on mine, there was half a belt left and my timing cover was worn through. In fact I first thought the whole center bolt might have been bent slightly, but I think the assembly may have just been exaggerated from having 200k on it. A few thousandths is all it takes. But ive seen this on multiple engines just from my work experience.

I solved this problem by converting to a manual tensioner setup. However its noted that installing new belts can be a pita because the tensioner pulley on the manual setup is slightly larger.

KSTuned has also documented this issue, though from a different reason. They created a manual tensioner for the auto setup, but they found the deflection issue when people started over tightening. They "solved" it with an add-on guide to the tensioner pulley that keeps the belt from slipping off track. But my issue is its still friction on the belt however minimal it might be. As I go through my own rebuild, ill personally be keeping my manual setup.
Hope this helps

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Old Today, 02:41 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Faulcun View Post
It actually is an issue. The oem tensioner pulley assembly tends to deflect from the pressure of the hydraulic tensioner, especially with some mileage on the motor. When I first found out on mine, there was half a belt left and my timing cover was worn through. In fact I first thought the whole center bolt might have been bent slightly, but I think the assembly may have just been exaggerated from having 200k on it. A few thousandths is all it takes. But ive seen this on multiple engines just from my work experience.

I solved this problem by converting to a manual tensioner setup. However its noted that installing new belts can be a pita because the tensioner pulley on the manual setup is slightly larger.

KSTuned has also documented this issue, though from a different reason. They created a manual tensioner for the auto setup, but they found the deflection issue when people started over tightening. They "solved" it with an add-on guide to the tensioner pulley that keeps the belt from slipping off track. But my issue is its still friction on the belt however minimal it might be. As I go through my own rebuild, ill personally be keeping my manual setup.
Hope this helps

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7Cz87VRoTw
Well this conflicts me even more. I took the car to the honda dealership and showed a mechanic the photo. I spent a considerable amount of time talking with him about the issue. In the end he said that if there was a major issue with the belt installation, it would have shredded itself a while ago. He basically said that since I had driven 7k on the belt and it was still fine, that it was good. He even came out and looked at the car to see if he could hear any abnormal noises coming from the timing belt area. He said it sounded good. He said he was confident it would go another 90k miles. So should I go back and argue with them some more? Mind you, I am not talking with the honda dealership that did the work. They are up in san francisco.
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Old Today, 01:38 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by SHLuding View Post
Well this conflicts me even more. I took the car to the honda dealership and showed a mechanic the photo. I spent a considerable amount of time talking with him about the issue. In the end he said that if there was a major issue with the belt installation, it would have shredded itself a while ago. He basically said that since I had driven 7k on the belt and it was still fine, that it was good. He even came out and looked at the car to see if he could hear any abnormal noises coming from the timing belt area. He said it sounded good. He said he was confident it would go another 90k miles. So should I go back and argue with them some more? Mind you, I am not talking with the honda dealership that did the work. They are up in san francisco.
In all honesty, this is the difference between dealership work, and private shop work. Allow me to explain, as im speaking from personal work experience:

Dealerships are vastly limited by the things they can and cant do. Perhaps not from a manufacturer standpoint, but more of an individual company policy, especially when it filters down at the technician level. 99% of the time, the dealer wont go out of their way to address an issue that isnt officially supported by the manufacturer like a TSB or Recall, and thats mainly because they are forced to at that point. OR, if they do, it'll be on the customer's dime, and even then they'll only use factory parts. Anything outside of that, and its basically invisible to them.

However, you can bring your own parts to the dealer and have them install it, but this gives them an excuse to take your money and not provide a warranty. And perhaps its rightly so as they cannot be responsible for what aftermarket parts do outside of factory specs. For example if you wanted them to install that belt guide, they would say hey, that alters the factory setup... we wont touch that.... at least not without making you sign a waver. Even though the manual setup comes from an H23, they'll dance around it and tell you oh well we cant look that up without a vin number blah blah blah

So at this point, the dealer technician wont tell you anything conflicting with the company standpoint even if he knows better. If he did, he could lose his job if he says something different than what the service writer says or anybody else. Or he simply may not know better lol. Technicians at the dealership are no more or less qualified than professionals at any private shop. A quick google search on H22 belt walk will show this isnt an isolated issue. I even found somebody else who was missing half the belt too.

Private shops have a bit more flexibility, especially performance driven shops. In fact a lot of them are fairly reasonable in price compared to other normal repair shops. In any case, its easier to deal with things like this with private shops. I would start having some conversations and find a reputable place.

Now, if you really want to push it with the dealer, common sense says that a timing belt should NOT be contacting anything other than the pulleys that drive it. If you have reason to believe that its rubbing against the cover or anything else, then its something I wouldnt ignore. Take pictures of your timing cover too if there are marks on it. If you push hard enough, you might be able to get them to tear it down, and install that belt guide on their own dime if you buy the part. You really gotta stand firm though. Dont give them any reason to say no. Even then.... you may not win.
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