Honda Prelude Forum banner

SHluding's OEM+ build

5th Gen_ 
26K views 95 replies 14 participants last post by  Prudz_lude 
#1 · (Edited)
ATTENTION: READ BEFORE THE REST OF THE THREAD

Here is an update. Many things have changed since I last posted in here. Looking back on this thread makes me sad in a lot of ways. Firstly, I wasted a lot of money modifying a car that I couldn't even drive. In stock form that prelude had a lot to offer me, but instead of learning to drive the car at the limit, I simply modified it thinking I knew better than honda and could easily change it to make it better. Funny thing is I had no idea what I was even changing or really why. It was simply what forums had led me to believe was necessary to have a car that "handles well". So I did it. I didn't know any better, but whats worse is that I posted about it and may have lead people who knew even less than I did in the wrong direction which I hate thinking about. Anybody who knows performance driving could read this thread and tell that I was clearly very ignorant about what I was doing.

So why the change of heart?
Well I have been Autocrossing a bone stock 1991 Acura Integra 4 door for the past six months and it has taught me an incredible amount about driving a vehicle at the limit. Not this bullcrap canyon driving where you can only endanger yourself and others and MAYBE poke the limit with a stick every so often. This is an environment where you can truly explore the outer limits of a vehicle and see what YOU can do with it. This car has oodles of body roll any most peoples first reactions would be to throw some higher rate springs on there with some good shocks, maybe tie it down more with sway bars etc. But in my case that would be silly. Because after 6 months of autocross, even a moderately decent driver can hop in that car and around the same AutoX circuit, shave two whole seconds off my time. I still can't even get the most out of that STOCK car. Which really brings me to my point.

If you are truly pursuing performance, like I claimed I was in the beginning of this thread, learn to drive your current car in its stock form at the limit so you can actually know what needs to be changed to go faster. Go find a local track day or AutoX club and go to a few events and feel what your car does. Not only will you have a blast, but you will learn an incredible amount about driving.

So where does this leave the prelude?
It leaves the Prelude where it should have been all along. Stock. I haven't autocrossed it yet although I do plan to try it at some point this summer. Just want to see how it does. I have no plans to modify that car. I am going to keep it as a mildly personalized survivor car. Something that I do not ever plan to sell. It really is a special car and I love it to death even after owning one for 4 years.

Hopefully this post sums up my thoughts well enough. As always, any questions feel free to post them below. When I do AutoX the prelude, Ill be sure to post it here though...

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE


The Name Of The Game:
The reason I am calling this build "OEM+" is because of the focus of the car and the look I am going after. This will be a car built with function above almost all else. Refinement following a close second. The function you ask? To devour a corner, but not rattle your senses to bits on the way home. So many cars seem to be built with either looks or just raw performance in mind. I am going for something more challenging. An OEM attention to noise, vibration, and harshness in addition to increased cornering performance. I want this car to be as if Honda released it to the masses.


The Car
The prelude I am starting with is a cherry. I drove all the way to San Francisco to buy her. Its a pearl white 2001 Sh prelude. It was purchased by a grandmother new and passed through the family. She had 103,000 miles when I bought her a few months back in September of 2016. Just had a new timing belt and clutch installed by a dealership up north. She was completely stock when I got a hold of her. Not anymore. I will post photos of the mods I have done and then update the thread as I do more.



Here are some photos of the car to begin with

1105161651 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1105161651a by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1105161651b by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1105161652 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1105161652a by Michael Russell, on Flickr
 
See less See more
5
#2 · (Edited)
First Mods, Interior Mods.

The first thing I do when I get a car for the first time is get the interior basics squared away. This prelude is no different. As such I installed a pioneer AVIC 5100NEX headunit with GPS and bluetooth. Firstly I love the way these headunits work and I love the way they sound and I love the way they look. Next I installed some 6.5 kicker speakers in the doors and some 6x9 kickers in the rear deck. Nothing crazy, just something so my Steely Dan comes through nice and clear. They were the perfect blend of Jazz and Rock you know. I am considering swapping to some component JBL's in the future. I then installed my wireless charging into the center console. Write-up link here: http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=443665

I then installed the optional OEM carbon fiber trim kit along with a nice metal shift knob and a Redline leather goods shift boot and center armrest cover with red accent stitching. The shift knob really improves shifting feel and shortens the throws a tad by being lower. Its red lettering also accents the shift boot quite nicely I think.


1105161739 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1105161739b by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1105161740 by Michael Russell, on Flickr
 
#3 · (Edited)
Lighting and Exhaust

Next I purchased used some depo headlights which had been retrofitted with morimoto projectors. I also bought some OEM JDM foglights and an Apexi WS2 catback exhaust. The headlights have 35W ballasts with 6k bulb temperatures. I chose the exhaust because of the fact that its a very subtle yet very nice sounding unit. Its relatively quiet which means you hear it when you want to but when you are just cruising on the highway, it goes away. It doesn't drone at all just like an OEM exhaust but sounds great too. The best of both worlds. The headlights were a tad hazy so I wet sanded and clear coated them to give them a brand new and long lasting finish. I did the same with the foglights.

1120161159 by Michael Russell, on Flickr


1118160917 by Michael Russell, on Flickr
 
#4 · (Edited)
Feel free to comment on this list or give recommendations. Some parts I already have. Most I do not. The ones bolded are the ones I have installed on the car currently.

Intended Parts List: Completed on page:
Suspension:
-BC racing BR coilovers Pg. 1
-ST suspensions rear sway bar Pg. 1

-Type S strut bar
-Superpro Rear Sway Bar Endlinks Pg. 3
-Performance alignment Pg. 1
-Swift Springs Pg. 2

- SPC front upper camber ball joints

Brakes:
-EBC USR slotted rotors Pg. 2
-EBC green stuff pads Pg. 2

-Stop Tech steel braided brake lines

Engine:
-Vibrant header
-Type S intake
-Apexi WS2 Catback Pg. 1
-Mfactory 10lb flywheel
-Mishimoto Radiator with slim fans

Transmission:
-Synchrotech trans w/ carbon synchros
-Torco conventional MTF
-Exedy OEM clutch

Wheels and Tires:
-17x7 +47 Work CR Kiwami wheels in GT Silver
-Michelin Pilot Super Sports size 205/45/R17

Exterior:
-OEM optional side skirts. Maybe Lip.
-Mugen Rep flush mount wing
-Retrofitted headlights Pg. 1
-JDM foglights Pg. 1
-Clear sidemarkers Pg. 3
-Tint Pg. 3
-Fixing dent on front left fender Pg. 3


Interior:
-ITR recaro seats OR s2000 seats with adapted rails
-JDM carbon fiber dash kit Pg. 1
-Redline leather goods shift boot, center armrest, and door panel covers with red stitching Pg. 1
-Pioneer AVIC 5100NEX headunit w/ GPS and bluetooth Pg. 1
-Wireless charging Pg.1
-JBL component speakers Pg. 2

-Alpine 5 Channel amp 75Wx4 250Wx1 both RMS
-8 Inch subwoofer underneath rear trunk
-Sound deading? Maybe. Not sure.
-Digital oil pressure gauge
-LoJack system
-Viper Alarm
 
#6 ·
Engine wise, nothing crazy. Really just bolt on's for the most part. I need to keep that Honda reliability. Maybe once this engine wears out Ill do a Type S swap but keep it OBD2 to save myself from the pitfalls of aftermarket tuning. Also I love honda NA engines so no supercharger or turbo for me.

Suspension wise, I am getting the coilovers partially as a Christmas gift and I have an appointment to get an alignment done Tuesday the 27th. I think that will determine the performance there. The place is called West End Alignments and they do corner balancing and all sorts of suspension wizardry to get the car to rotate better and just feel more sporty. They explained some of it briefly to me on the phone and it really sounds like they know what they are doing. I also have an ST suspensions sway bar which I have already purchased but am waiting to put on until after the alignment. If they work their magic and I want still more rotation then I can always add it after the fact.

I really just want the car to be an epic canyon cruiser. Maybe do the occasional track day. At the end of the day, my goal is to gain a good increase in performance while keeping an OEM like refinement and quietness.

But to put the ball in your court, based on your picture it looks like you have tracked your car. What is the best thing you feel you have done to it performance wise?
 
#9 ·
To really get the most out of corner weighting, you need to set the corner weights without the sway bars connected, then install the sway bar end links so that there is no preload on the bars at static ride height (with you in the car, of course, just like when you do the corner weighting and alignment).
 
#10 ·
Thank you for the info. After I found a couple articles on how they adjust it, it became clear that that was what your concern was. As a result I am going to pick up some adjustable ones before I get the corner weighting done. This is exactly the kind of info I was hoping I might come across in creating this build thread.

I found some progress rear ones. I just need to find fronts.

Thanks again for the info.
 
#12 ·
#13 · (Edited)
The BC's Have Arrived!

Here they are in all their glory. Nothing special setup wise on these guys. Simply what BC gives you from the factory. They are BR series coils with 10K front 5K rear springs with shocks valved to match. No extreme low option selected because I don't hate myself. Also it has the rubber bushings because ride quality is still a concern of mine. Here are some pictures.

1215161039_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1215161043_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1215161101_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1215161101a_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1215161101c_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

For some reason the top hats on the front coils have 5 studs. Maybe its a 4th gen thing. I dont know. I called BC and they said it was for a strut tower bar. Either way, my car does not need them nor does it have the place for them so the two smaller studs need to get pressed out according to them. The rep claimed they come out relatively easily. We shall see.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Depends on what strut bar I decide to go with. If i dont go with the type s then I am going to press the studs out.
 
#18 ·
Thanks. I will definitely post my thoughts on what they are like on here once installed.
 
#21 · (Edited)
I am installing them on Christmas day, the 25th. I will be able to give at least initial impressions on mine a day or two after that.

I have seen your prelude. It is truly a beauty. I love white on these cars, especially when they have been well taken care of. You also take much better pictures than I do too lol.
 
#22 · (Edited)
So, the install.

1225161530_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1225161542_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Setting the preload on the BC's. You basically wind the spring collar by hand until you cant tighten it anymore and then you tighten it 4mm from there. The width of the wrenches is 4mm for your convenience.


1225161717_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

First BC in.

1225161750_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Front BC in.

1225161750a_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Decided not to press out the studs. I peeled off the stickers and the holes were there. I like the design of the type s strut bar best and I will eventually pick one up. Hence why I am keeping the studs.

1225161857_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Front wheels after BC's were installed.

1225161857a_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Rear wheels after BC's installed

1225161857b_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

This photo was after I lowered the car on the ground right after I installed the BC's for the first time. I wound them up a decent amount because I was comparing the two suspensions at full droop on the jackstands, and the BC's have way less droop than stock so that made me concerned. But naturally the BC's stiffer springs dont compress as much under the weight of the car which resulted in my temporary SH to base model right height conversion.

1225162134_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

This was how I measured the ride height before and after. This measurement was on the front wheels after I lowered the shocks more. Stock suspension at full droop measured from the same points was 16 inches. The rear was 15 stock and 13.25 at the final ride height I settled on.

1225162149 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1225162149_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1225162226 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1226161247 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Not really great photos I know. After the car was lowered, it came in at a perfect 2 finger gap up front and about a 2.5 finger gap in the rear. I realize that's not the most scientific way to go about it but I forgot to write down the measurements I had. I will take some more later and update this post. UPDATE: Between from the bottom of the lower adjusting ring to the bottom of the upper adjusting rings on the BC's is roughly 3.75 inches on rear of my car currently. Here are the measurements for the front.

0118171215 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

As to how it drives? Good. On power I didn't notice much of a difference. I am gonna attribute that to the ATTS system. But off power, the car was quite different. I noticed distinctly more front end grip and the rear was slightly more willing to rotate. Also it felt more tied down over mid corner bumps, which made it feel more secure in handling.

Comfort wise, well, depends how fast you are going. I had the adjuster at number 7 out of 30 all the way around. That felt pretty good to me. On the freeway the car feels almost the same. A tad choppier but not anything to write home about. Around town, it is noticeably choppier. It transmits the bigger bumps to the cabin as oppose to ironing them out. Is it bad or uncomfortable? No. Is it as smooth as other people told me it would be? No. I feel that its a worthwhile compromise though. If you were going from blown suspension this would probably be a slight comfort improvement, but from good suspension like mine, it is slightly less comfortable overall. If you would like me to elaborate further on any particular area, just ask and I will do my best.

1224161500_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Then some basic maintenance. This is my first oil change on synthetic. The car burns a small enough amount of oil for me to consider trying it. Based on all the research I could suffer, synthetic oil also provides better protection for higher revving engines, which was my main reason for switching. They also claim it makes less carbon when it burns which should be better for my EGR ports. We shall see. I also got a mobil 1 oil filter because I buy into marketing wank I guess.

1226161501 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Then an engine bay shot because this thread hasnt had one yet. Thats all for the time being I suppose.
 
#23 · (Edited)
The alignment and the fix of the dreaded rear clunk

So on Wednesday I went and got my alignment done. I went to a place called West End alignments. They have an amazing reputation in my area and after my experience I can see why. I basically gave him full control over ride height and said, set it up for the style of driving I do. He did exactly that. I ended up with 1.5 degrees of camber on both sides in the rear and 1.1 degree of camber on the front left and 1.5 degrees in the front right. He recomended I get a camber kit for the front wheels which would be able to let him adjust the front so the camber would be exactly equal.

1228160810c by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1228160810 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

After they did the alignment.

1230161052 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

I think the ride height is perfect. It was the exact functional look that I was going for. I would tell you how it handles but I haven't had many opportunities to test it. I will say the front end feels much more willing to change direction it seems.

The night I got home from the alignment I decided I wanted to try and fix a clunking noise I have had coming from the right rear of the car. It sounds exactly like shock knock but, I have coilovers so it couldnt be that. My bushings all looked good too. The noise only happened when I was going over uneven bumps or through drainage ditches at angles so I thought it must be sway bar related. In an effort to isolate the issue I removed the rear sway bar entirely. Much to my frustration the issue was still there clear as day. So completely baffled I did some more research and decided to give this a try.

1230161050 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

I dont know the technical name for this bar between the rear seat and the trunk but it clearly is quite important structurally. It is bolted in with a bunch of 10mm bolts and over time they work themselves loose. I found a few of mine were just slightly loose on the right side. I was skeptical but I tightened them up, went for a test drive and boom. The noise was completely gone. I was so happy to find the solution.

This noise had been with me since I bought the car and my mechanic had told me it was just my shocks. After I replaced them with coils and the noise was still there I was worried. But now that its fixed I figured Id share it in case someone else runs into the same issue. It took me all of 15 minutes to fix.

Now I just need to put my rear sway bar back on and all will be good in the world of prelude.
 
#24 · (Edited)
ST Rear Sway Bar install

A couple days after I had my alignment done, i tried to install my ST suspensions rear sway bar. In the midst of this attempt I discovered that the outlet for the Apexi WS2 exhaust is at the top of the muffler as oppose to the stock one which was at the bottom of the muffler. This meant that the Apexi came into direct contact with the ST rear sway. Today I took the car down to the muffler shop and they were easily able to remedy the issue. A quick reroute of the pipe and I was good to go.

0103171146 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Huge shout out to the guys over at Muffler Man in Placentia, CA. They are absolutely great to work with and their prices are reasonable. I highly recommend them if you are in the area. I use them for all my exhaust work.


Here is a picture of the sway bar installed. I had to get some whiteline sway bar collars to keep the bar from moving around. The clearance between the bar and the back left coilover is a tad tight but it doesn't appear as though it will be an issue. Suspension looks good with ST rear bar and the BC's installed though IMO.

0103171313 by Michael Russell, on Flickr


The ST bar is a good upgrade. The stock bar is a 23mm hollow bar while the ST bar is a 25mm solid bar. The handling is noticeably better. As you would expect you get better rotation, but you also get a very mild lift off over steer which is quite fun. It really is a great "bang for your buck" upgrade. It also doesnt compromise ride quality or comfort at all which is always nice. Paired with the BC's coils it works very well.

An update on the BC's as well. I don't know what it is but they have become quite a lot more comfortable. Maybe they broke in or something but I swear they ride more smoothly now. Very nearly as smooth as stock on the full soft setting. As a result, I am even more pleased with the purchase and would recommend them to people who are concerned with ride quality but want a stiffer suspension.
 
#26 · (Edited)
So a quick update on some of my plans, I am searching for an even more refined ride. As a result I am going to look into getting some Swift springs at potentially a lower spring rate as well. I am going to talk with some of the guys over at FRSport tomorrow for some advice. I have a friend who works there who can help with part prices as well so thats nice.

If you haven't heard of swift springs, i would recommend looking them up. They are making some pretty interesting claims. They say that their springs are able to increase ride quality even at the same spring rate. Here is the link to their website as they can explain it better than I can. http://www.swiftsprings.net/tech/advantage.html

I probably will end up getting a set of their springs and will be able to post my thoughts here in direct comparison with the BC's stock springs. Its will also be useful because BC will let you order their coils with Swift springs pre-installed. All the more things to think about.

In the mean time, here is an Integra Type R I found and took a few photos of. I have never seen one in person so it was cool to see such a legendary FWD car with my own eyes.

1228160825 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1228160824b by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1228160824a by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1228160824 by Michael Russell, on Flickr
 
#27 · (Edited)
Wash, Wax, and Wheels

A few days back I decided to give the car a really nice detail before I had to go back to college. I spent four hours washing, clay-baring, and waxing the old girl. It was a lot of work but wow. The results were incredible. It was my first time clay-baring a car and it was amazing to me how much dirt it was able to pick up. The paint would feel as smooth as if I had just waxed it when I ran the clay bar over it. Definitely worth the extra time.

These first two photos were right before I was about to remove the wax.

0115171644a by Michael Russell, on Flickr

0115171644 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

This was the next day once all the detailing was finished. The shine was just incredible. The whole car looked like that back pillar in this photo.

0116171052_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Then a picture of two JDM legends on the same driveway. Thats a 97 lexus SC300 factory 5 speed car in case any of you were wondering. I bought it and ended up selling it to my dad.

0122171305 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Then a bit of a snap decision. At my college, modified cars often times get broken in to. As a result I dont really want to get the white work wheels for my car until I graduate in a few years. If I were to put them on now, it would kinda make the car stand out a bit more than I want right now. Then when a saw these 17inch Acura RSX type S wheels for sale, I decided to go ahead and get them. They will look a lot better than stock but still look stock. A very subtle upgrade. I have always liked them too.

The specs are 17x7 with a +45mm offset. Really nice specs for our cars. Two of them have brand new Hankook ventus V12 EVO 2 tires on them which are sized 215-45-R17. I am gonna see how that size works. Its only half an inch larger in total diameter so I am not too concerned. Time will tell.

0122171623 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

In other news, I am going to go ahead and order some swift springs for the car. I am also going to order the parts to make some adjustable sway bar end links soon. Once I get those and a camber kit for the front I will then take my car to get corner balanced. That will have all the suspension work finished. Thats all for the moment. Thanks for reading.
 
#29 · (Edited)
The Brake Job

So, the other day when I was backing up, I heard a squealing coming from the rear of my car. It took me a few times of hearing it to realize that it was the metal brake pad tabs grinding on my rotors. This was naturally due to my brake pads being worn down. I finally got to install my full EBC rotor kit that I have had for probably 6 or more months just sitting in my garage.

The rotor kit is the one that you can order off of extreme prelude.com. It gives you 4 EBC USR slotted rotors and then 2 sets of EBC green stuff brake pads (1 set for the front and the other for the rear).

Here is the rear in its stock, worn out form.

0129171450 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

The install is pretty basic. Nothing fancy. Just like doing a brake job with OEM parts. The fit of everything was good.

This is a picture of the rotor installed somewhat incorrectly. As you can see the holes for the rotor screws are obscured by the rotor. Thats because I initially forgot about the rotor screws and just put the rotor on randomly without trying to line up the holes. I went back and fixed it though.

0129171532 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

The rear green stuff pads.

0129171532a by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Front rotors and pads installed!

0129171722 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Then a picture after a quick initial test drive. Notice how the black coating wears off. The rotors now are silver just like every other brake rotor.

0129171902 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Whilst I was doing brake work I also flushed the whole brake system and put in some fresh Valvoline dot 3 and 4 brake fluid. The old stuff didnt look too bad but I still had no idea when it was last done. Figured I would do it just so I can keep a consistent interval on it for the future.

I wish I could tell you how I liked the brakes. But EBC recommends a 1000 mile break-in period before doing any sporty or hard braking. So I will report back on anything I find after that milestone has passed. I will be curious to see how long the pads last and how much dust they produce too. Either way I will find out, but for the moment that is all. Thanks for reading.
 
#30 ·
Very nice looking car!

You were asking what made the biggest difference earlier..... a big one is tires! Good tires can make all the difference on a car.

I'm using Bridgestone RE760's. I love them. I gave them a try because Honda tends to supply Bridgestones as OEM's. I think they really do match well to the car. I had some BFGoodrich (their really aggressive tire from a number of years back) and Falken 612's (one of my favorite tires) on previously. The Bridgestones are a marked improvement over either of those.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Thank you! Yeah tires make a pretty big difference, however when I bought the car it had a brand new set of "thunderererereres" on it. Only Taiwan's finest set of rubber. As a result I almost feel compelled to wear them down. When I finally need to put tires on I plan on going with a nice set of performance Michelins. Ever had any experience with any of their super sport tires? Heck tires make more of a difference than coil overs I bet. I appreciate the input.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Custom Sway Bar Endlinks

UPDATE: These started making noise after about 3000 miles so I would definitely not recommend doing this. Go to the next page to see some off the shelf end links that will work much better.

So today I spent my time making the custom sway bar endlinks. I got all my info off of this thread http://www.preludeonline.com/f60/making-my-own-endlinks-front-rear-255186/

I ordered 8 of the studded female rod ends off of MSC's website part #73202160. That was easily the most expensive part. For those 8 links it was 90 dollars. They seem to be quality though, they have nylon races as opposed to metal on metal like some others and they are rated for 3000lbs of force so they are plenty strong.

Then for the grade 8 threaded rod and all 24 washers and 16 nuts it cost me another 24 bucks at my local industrial hardware store. I also bought a can of paint to spray the threaded rods so they wont rust.

All in all for 4 endlinks I paid $120 dollars tax and all. Not too bad honestly. If you have any questions about how to make them or where I bought my parts feel free to ask. I am happy to help.
ST sway bar after being removed from the car.
0204171704 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

The mighty endlinks.
0204171804a by Michael Russell, on Flickr

0204171804 by Michael Russell, on Flickr
After the initial test drive they are not making any noise so currently they are good. I think the real interesting part will be seeing how long those endlinks last before starting to make noise. The car is currently at 110,140 miles on the clock so ill start counting the miles. We will find out. Overall A successful day.
 
#33 · (Edited)
Cam Cap Seal and Timing Belt Fun

So, I have a leaky cam cap seal because why not. These seem to start leaking around the 100k mark so I figured I would replace it. Its the last oil leak on the car that hasnt been resolved.

The start
0205171550 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Some stuff removed
0205171600 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Valve cover off
0205171612 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

At this moment I notice my timing belt was right on the edge of the cam gear. I pushed it back to center just out of instinct and didnt think much of it.
0205171612a by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Cam retainer plate removed
0205171621a by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Golden Eagle Cam seal compared to the old dried out stocker
0205171623 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Re-torqued the plate in 3 steps with my new favorite tool. Its a CDI 3/8 torque wrench and it works very well. Way better than the stupid craftsman microclicker one that broke on me after 20 or so uses.
0205171647a by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Then when I went to put on the new valve cover gasket I noticed some small rubber shreds on this part the valve cover. I remembered how the timing belt was kinda far over on the cam gears and I began to worry that the belt was rubbing on the valve cover.
0205171652a by Michael Russell, on Flickr

0205171655 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

Then I went back to look at the timing belt and although it is normal to see some of the bands on the side of the belt, these looked as though they had been rubbed against.
0205171655a by Michael Russell, on Flickr

I figured I would take it to the honda dealership and see what they had to say as it was still under warranty from when the previous owners had it done by the dealership up north. I subsequently buttoned up the rest of the job.

0205171739a by Michael Russell, on Flickr

0205171739b by Michael Russell, on Flickr

UPDATE:
I went and talked with my local honda dealer today and they were less than helpful. I need more concrete proof before they are willing to take warranty steps so I am going to pull the valve cover off again and check to see how close to the edge of the cam gears the belt really is and I am also going to clean out the small rubber shreds and see if they come back after a thousand miles of driving. If the belt is rubbing it isn't badly because there is no noise and if the belt was off the side of the cam gear it was only by a few mm at most. I will know exactly when I pull the valve cover off again tomorrow. Ill post some more pics then. Any input on the issue from you guys is always appreciated.
 
#34 ·
You're fine. The timing belts almost always ride to one edge or the other. It's probably not even wearing against the cover, it's probably just running against the guide further down. It's just flinging the tiny bit of rubber that gets rubbed off everywhere.
 
#35 ·
Well that makes me feel a bit better. I still want to make sure though. The thought of timing belt failure on this car scares me quite a bit.
 
#38 ·
Wow. Thanks for the photos. That really helps to put my mind at ease. I guess I probably dont have a problem then.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top