[ritzcracker]

I searched around and doesn't seem like anyone made a write-up for this yet. Most of your time will be spent on the right side of the car (U.S. that's the passenger side, everyone else: your driver side) The 4 bolts that are used on the mount are all 17mm.

Here is my new mount.

1. Using a hydraulic jack with a piece of wood on it (to prevent damage to your oil pan), support the engine with a slight amount of pressure. Depending on how low your car is, you may need to jack up your car first before you can support the engine.

2. Remove your intake piping from the throttle body.



3. From here you should be able to see the rear mount directly below the intake manifold. It is held on by 3 bolts going down to the cross member. Remove the one long bolt going through the mount horizontally.



4. Remove the 3 vertical bolts securing the mount. Use extensions and you should be able to get to the 2 rear bolts going straight down. The middle one towards the front gets a little tricky. With the help of numerous extensions (because i have no idea where my 6 inchers went) and a u-joint, it made it much easier.





5. Once you have removed the bolts, the mount will be blocked in by the heater hose. Remove the bracket attached to the firewall holding the temp adjusting cable. Slide the clip up holding the temp adjusting cable and remove it from the adjuster. This will allow you to move the hoses and adjuster above the mount.





6. Slide the mount towards the firewall to remove. It may require some twisting. Remove the mount from the vehicle.





My mount wasn't completely torn, but enough to bother me.

7. Install the new mount doing the opposite of removal. Line up the 3 bolts and get them threaded in but DO NOT tighten them down yet.

8. More likely than not, your mount will not line up with the bracket the first time. This is why you don't want to tighten the mount yet, this will give you a little bit of wiggle room. The long bolt has a rounded tip that will allow you poke around a bit and get it started. Once you have gotten it through, tighten it to 47 ft×lbs.



9. Now you can tighten down the rear mount to the cross member to 69 ft×lbs.

10. Check inside you car to be sure the temp slider on your climate control is all the way to cold.



11. Bring the heater hoses back behind the mount and secure the adjusting cable to the adjuster. Secure the bracket to the firewall.



12. Double check that all bolts are tight and re-install your intake.

13. Lower engine with the jack and enjoy your engine that is properly mounted.

[grushko]

Great write-up! repped.

Could you upload bigger pictures (like on photobucket or so) and tell us what is the part number for the mount?
looks like i found the part number: 50810-S30-000 MOUNTING ASSY., RR. ENGINE (MT) $82.33
number 2 on the picture

[ritzcracker]

what site did you get that price from? I use majestic honda www.hondaautomotiveparts.com and got this:

50810-S30-000 MOUNTING ASSY., RR. ENGINE 113.57 79.50

not a huge difference but a little cheaper

Also, all pictures included are clickable thumbnails to the full size pic.

[grushko]

I'm usually purchasing from www.hondapartsnow.com If you want buy just one item - it's cheaper, but if you want to buy a lot of parts - majestic honda best way. It's all about shipping costs.

[ritzcracker]

Originally Posted by grushko

I'm usually purchasing from www.hondapartsnow.com If you want buy just one item - it's cheaper, but if you want to buy a lot of parts - majestic honda best way. It's all about shipping costs.

oh I see, well I'm in Hawaii so I get raped on shipping no matter what lol

[Toxxic]

awesom writeup... could have used this yesterday when i decided to not do my rear mount yet. looked a bit more involved than the amount of time i had.

gonna be going out here in a few mins to do it though.

[98__SH]

Well done writeup!

[Toxxic]

Just finished the rear mount. Besides stuck bolts it was pretty quick. Thanks again.

[ritzcracker]

Originally Posted by Toxxic

Just finished the rear mount. Besides stuck bolts it was pretty quick. Thanks again.

Hopefully the write-up helped you get it done faster haha

Originally Posted by 98__SH

Well done writeup!

Thanks! It was my first one so depending on what other maintenance I have coming up I might be making more

[2_LuDE]

Great info, thanks for the write up. Two questions. Are you supporting the engine by putting the jack under the oil pan? How can you tell if you need a new engine mount?

[ritzcracker]

Originally Posted by 2_LuDE

Great info, thanks for the write up. Two questions. Are you supporting the engine by putting the jack under the oil pan? How can you tell if you need a new engine mount?

1. Yes, just make sure you use some wood on the jack so you don't dent/puncture your oil pan (see step 1)

2. I inspect my mounts from time to time but with the tearing that I had on mine, I could tell. Especially the back one since that will move when accelerating and decelerating. When I would let off the gas after accelerating, I would get a jerking motion. This is from the mount having too much movement because it is torn.

You could always just look at it and see if it looks torn or completely broken. Using a pry bar makes it much easier. Just wedge the pry bar between the mount and the bracket. Going side to side it should be quite obvious if it is torn or not. You will either notice way too much movement or visually see the torn rubber.