[zelseman]

There are quite a few threads on the H23V swap. You need to use all of the pulleys and gears from the timing belt side of your h22a4 motor. The cam gears are the only things that can stay from the h23V. You should essentially use just the block and head from the H23V.

[BBnineone6]

Originally Posted by zelseman

There are quite a few threads on the H23V swap. You need to use all of the pulleys and gears from the timing belt side of your h22a4 motor. The cam gears are the only things that can stay from the h23V. You should essentially use just the block and head from the H23V.

okay excuse my inexperience as this is my first car, but by ALL the pulleys and gears are you reffering to ps, alternator, a/c, water pump.. ? because i deleted my a/c so is it possible to run the h23a alternator and water pump with the a4 ps and crank pulley?

[BBnineone6]

cars all done... wouldnt start. apparently i have to buy a obd2a-->obd2b conversion harness. its in the mail scheduled to come on thursday. one thing after another -_____-

[zelseman]

Originally Posted by BBnineone6

okay excuse my inexperience as this is my first car, but by ALL the pulleys and gears are you reffering to ps, alternator, a/c, water pump.. ? because i deleted my a/c so is it possible to run the h23a alternator and water pump with the a4 ps and crank pulley?

There is a write-up on this site that addresses all of your issues. You can still use all of your accessories and their pulleys but all of the crank pulleys have to be switched over.

Originally Posted by BBnineone6

cars all done... wouldnt start. apparently i have to buy a obd2a-->obd2b conversion harness. its in the mail scheduled to come on thursday. one thing after another -_____-

This was in the write up as well. You either use an obd1 distributor and use the conversion harness that you have coming. Or you could switch out the oil pump to the h22a4 pump and use the stock oil pump sensors. Either way will work.

[BBnineone6]

yeah the write up i think you are referring to is the one with the h23a vtec and h22a and euro r. it wont show up on my browser and a few others have posted on it saying it wont show up either.

[BBnineone6]

alright well i know this is probably the worst build thread ever haha so i apologize..

anyways, there have been countless problems and long story short its been a little over a month and the things not been fired up yet. everything was in the car after 3 days but couldnt get it to start. after tons of ecus, conversion harnesses, distributors, oil pumps breaking, dizzy adapter harnesses not working blah blah blah im finally trying the original plan of swapping the oil pump with sensors and old a4 dizzy option... the first time the balancer belt pulley was swapped over but not the timing belt drive pulley. car wouldnt start due to the sensors not being able to read correctly im assuming. my mechanic is busy in the moving process looking for a house etc so he never has time to work on it.

anyways heres a pic of the bay just since i havent posted forever..


Hopefully ill get this last job done and the car will start up within a week.

[lorby]

wtf is with the porn pic on the first page lol

[BBnineone6]

Originally Posted by lorby

wtf is with the porn pic on the first page lol

hahahh what the heck?!?!? that was a picture of my clearance to the ground i have no idea how that changed.. idk how someone would hack unless it was a mod..

[JFinn]

Lookin good man!

[BBnineone6]

Originally Posted by JFinn

Lookin good man!

thanks dude its just such a long frustrating process having a middle man do the work.. if only i had the time and tools one day... but anyways my buddy from works brother is gonna come over tuesday and put in the lower timing gear that i need to get the ckps and tdc working.

[BBnineone6]

Okay well the car finally starts!!!! but... its not driveable haha. The skunk2 IM wasnt set up correctly.. theres no iacv and one of the power steering plugs was plugged into the IAT spot.

The guy who came over to swap the lower timing gear found a ton of problems that the original "mechanic" did, like these sensor mix ups. he deleted a ton of vacuum lines and left like 3 sensors just hanging. the IAT sensor plug needs the wires to be extended to reach the manifold.

The oil pressure plug doesnt reach either.

What do most people do with the IACV with the h22 skunk2 IM? theres a bracket in the instructions but i dont have one included.

I'll have pictures later.



Oh yeah, also it turns out the original mechanic didnt even swap the oil pump or the balancer belt pulley, but took my money for doing it lol. he wont answer any texts or calls. BUT on the bright side, the new guy who actually knows what hes doing is going to continue helping me with the manifold problems.

right now the car starts up quick, but revs crazy up and down in idle, then eventually dies if i give it any air.

[BBnineone6]

so on tuesday i had to buy the balancerbelt pulley, the timing belt drive gear, and a new oil pump


(old crank and tdc sensor)


And my buddy mike started helping me with the motor and got all those in there. Now all i gotta do is fix the mess with the intake manifold.

[BBnineone6]

okay so i ordered the hardware set for the intake manifold from skunk2 even though i only need the IAC air bypass bracket and some hoses to run to the back of the manifold.. I asked and they said they only sell the hardware that i need with the whole kit so essentially i spent 40 bucks on a little metal plate.. oh well this is what the hobby entails i guess. so far ive spent about 1400 on parts and stuff just FIXING the mistakes that the original mechanic made...

but here are little things left that i have to do:

-Install air bypass bracket and hoses for my IAC and plug it in
-put the ecu plate back on and my interior back together
-buy knock sensor and install
-buy power steering pulley and bleed ps system
-adjust tps(throttle is very jumpy and funky, not sure if this has to do with iac)
-connect pcv valve hose to intake
-tighten loose endlink... dont know why it was loosened.
-buy cotter pins for front suspension that were taken out and never put back in..

theres probably more issues but these are the ones before the car is even driveable..

also: when the car reaches around 3k it trips out and buckles and bogs and surges etc. is this possibly from the bad knock sensor? or iacv? car never did this before swap so i doubt its anything with the dizzy or fuel pump (which were switched over)

[BBnineone6]

alright well a bit o an update..

I had a feeling that the dude who started my swap didnt scrape off the old IM gasket, so i sprayed it with some carb cleaner while it was idling and sure enough it started raising rpms.

So after a long and grueling process of getting the intake manifold off, this is what i find:


he didnt even scrape off the old gasket, he just put the new one right over it... the finger is directed toward the liar who i shouldnt have let touch my car. and also toward having to scrape the gasket off haha

that water hose in the way was the worst part of getting to the manifold's lower bolts btw.



im going to scrape the gasket off, get a hondata gasket and bolt everything back up hoping the car will finally be driveable. still gotta replace knock sensor and then that should be it!

hoping the 3k surging was from improper a/f ratio from the huge air leak.

[BBnineone6]

100th post. woot woot lol

[BBnineone6]

scraped about half the old gasket off in about 2 hours -_____- not fun stuff. especially when the motors in the car.

so whats the best way to get it off? the local hardware shop didnt have gasket remover.. i tried some carb cleaner, didnt work too well. im not sure how effective soapy hot water will be. any suggestions? sand it off?

[vtec99]

Car looks good dude. You can buy a scraper tool at a autoparts store to remove the gasket. It's on a long handle and like a screw driver and has a think blade. I have used this tool for everything works great.

kris

[BBnineone6]

Originally Posted by vtec99

Car looks good dude. You can buy a scraper tool at a autoparts store to remove the gasket. It's on a long handle and like a screw driver and has a think blade. I have used this tool for everything works great.

kris

yeah dude ive got like a million different tools to scrape the crap off. ive been using brake fluid and bought a new pack of razor blades for the ultimate sharpness haha. but its been such a pain, its all almost off, i have no time to work on it.

hopefully tomorrow ill throw the new gasket and IM on and be good to go. hoping my type sh ecu doesnt trip out from lack of atts and knock sensor. thinking about gettin an ecu from phearable.net until i tune.

[dunw00dy24]

Hey man, sweet lude.

You commented on my similar build thread. (I'm doin the H22A4 to H23A Vtec swap right now, and forgot two switch the timing gears.)

She's running obd2 (with h22 oil pump, dizzy, balancer and timing gear, crank sensor, etc). The car originally wouldn't start, but after putting in the balancer and timing gears she started...Having that damn rev problem though. Car starts up and purrs, no timing issues, but at 3500 rpm goes crazy and stalls.

My mechanic says he thinks the throttle positioning sensor is dead, and it's throwing a TPS code. You got any ideas?

[BBnineone6]

Originally Posted by dunw00dy24

Hey man, sweet lude.

You commented on my similar build thread. (I'm doin the H22A4 to H23A Vtec swap right now, and forgot two switch the timing gears.)

She's running obd2 (with h22 oil pump, dizzy, balancer and timing gear, crank sensor, etc). The car originally wouldn't start, but after putting in the balancer and timing gears she started...Having that damn rev problem though. Car starts up and purrs, no timing issues, but at 3500 rpm goes crazy and stalls.

My mechanic says he thinks the throttle positioning sensor is dead, and it's throwing a TPS code. You got any ideas?

huh.. well you can easily test the tps with a voltmeter, but if its throwing a code im not sure. try to calibrate it, theres threads showing you how on here. basically you stick a voltmeter in one of the wires and it should read .5v at closed throttle and 4.5v at wide open throttle. is your knock sensor and o2 sensor in tact? which ecu are you using?

[BBnineone6]

also make sure MAP and TPS sensors arent switched; theyre both 3 pin plugs and relatively close. the car will stall and stuff if they are, and if its throwing a code thats most likely your problem. heres the wire colors for the map sensor, check out if the harness plug plugged into the map sensor ontop of the throttle body matches

[dunw00dy24]

I appreciate the info brutha. I just got off the phone with the mechanic, he's gonna check the volts and make sure the TPS and MAP sensors are plugged in correctly before we throw in the new sensor.

[BBnineone6]

Originally Posted by dunw00dy24

I appreciate the info brutha. I just got off the phone with the mechanic, he's gonna check the volts and make sure the TPS and MAP sensors are plugged in correctly before we throw in the new sensor.

yeup no problem, let me know what happens

[dunw00dy24]

Originally Posted by BBnineone6

yeup no problem, let me know what happens

Mechanic tried switching the MAP and TPS sensors, and he said it made the car fun significantly worse. He switched them back and did a volts test on the TPS sensor - completely dead. New sensor is going in today, and he's already adjusted it to be good to go.

Hopefully, I'll post some great news later in the day.

[dunw00dy24]

Originally Posted by dunw00dy24

Mechanic tried switching the MAP and TPS sensors, and he said it made the car fun significantly worse. He switched them back and did a volts test on the TPS sensor - completely dead. New sensor is going in today, and he's already adjusted it to be good to go.

Hopefully, I'll post some great news later in the day.

BAD NEWS:

New TPS sensor is in, car still won't rev past 3500 RPMS. Still throwing TPS code. Ideas anyone??