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  #1  
Old 03-26-2012, 11:49 AM
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1Slw4Dr 1Slw4Dr is offline
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KaizenSpeed BS Delete Kit

Alright so I had seen there was a review already posted for this product but decided to make another one with a little write up on installation if that is alright with the admins of the site. Today I recieved my kit and in the next few days plan on installing it and taking plenty of pictures each step of the way.

The kit came with everything I will need and that was listed on the site. Also came with quality instructions in my opinion and I even ordered the spacer for an extra $20 that lets you remove the BS tensioner pully for a cleaner look/install.

Well here are the pictures

Full contants of package


Came with some nice stickers, business card, and instructions.


Sealed and clean!


BS Tensioner pully delete spacer(not needed but for $20 why not)
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Old 04-01-2012, 02:40 AM
nusdogg nusdogg is offline
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Nice!

Have you install it?
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  #3  
Old 04-01-2012, 08:18 AM
1Slw4Dr 1Slw4Dr is offline
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Originally Posted by nusdogg View Post
Nice!

Have you install it?
Not yet been super swamped with work and side work. Plus with Honda Day in 2 weeks I probably won't get it done till after that. Sucks being the club mechanic. Hardly time for my own car. but on the bright side if I don't rush and take my time I can do a good write uP!
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  #4  
Old 04-04-2012, 12:11 PM
1Slw4Dr 1Slw4Dr is offline
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Dead day at work. Installing BS Delete kit today! Write up will be posted by this weekend. Taking TONS of pictures so I will sort threw them and see what works best.
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  #5  
Old 04-09-2012, 08:56 PM
1Slw4Dr 1Slw4Dr is offline
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Alright ladies and gents I have finally finished installing the BS delete kit and was actually surprised at how easy it was. Was a little unsure of myself at first but as long as you stay calm follow the instructions and torque everything to spec it should be fine. I didn't have a press so a rubber hammer, bench vice, and blocks of wood got all my plugs in and secure so don't let people fool you into thinking you need to fork over some retarded amount of money to some shop to press everything in. Well here is my write up!!! First ever so hope everyone approves!!!

Obviously start by having the motor out of the car of course. The shafts are about 2 thirds the length of the block so you aren't pulling them out while the motor is still in the car.


Second the oil pan, oil pump pick up, and splash shield must be taken off.


In the next few steps I remove the oil pump. I forgot to undo one of the bolts so when I pulled the pump I pulled a balance shaft with it. I had the motor upside down so we will refer to the balance shaft position by intake and exhaust side to avoid confusion I hope.

The exhaust side balance shaft has 2 bolts holding it in the block UNDER the oil pump. For now just pull the bolt that is visible so you can remove the gear. This will allow the pump to just slide off it.


Here is what it'll look like once you get the pump pulled off. Once you unbolt that the shaft slides right out and you can throw all that stuff out.


Now for the intake side balance shaft. A little more involved and if you don't forget to undo the bolt I did then the whole shaft will come out with the pump. Not a big deal just letting it be known.

Ok so on the intake side balance shaft you need to remove a bunch of bolts and a nut to pull the gear cover housing off. Should look like this when you're done.

Cover with nuts, bolts, etc


What it now looks like!


Bolt that needs to be removed to detach balance shaft.


Now for removal of pump. Common sense says find all the bolts and take them out. Pump will then come off with a slight bit of prying.


Now your block should look like this.


To get the balance shaft off that is stuck to the pump when I pulled it I just put it in a bench vice and then cracked the bolt loose and pulled it out. Easy! No fuss no muss or what ever crap that old guy used to say to me.

Now my pictures aren't super or anything but there better then half the shit I found online so bare with me if I skipped steps. I was alone and had to balance the oil pump, blocks of wood, and turn the bench vice so I never took pictures of how I pressed the stuff in.

Exhaust side plug pressed in!


Intake plug pressed in then picture of cover that goes over it! SO SHINY!!!



What the pump will look like on the block. Cover that goes over exhaust side plug gets bolted down once attached to block. You'll see what I mean when you do it.


Alright so now onto the fun part . . . NOT!!! Actually it isn't to bad just with out a press I had a hell of a time getting the plugs put in. For those who don't know the plugs are intended to keep the oil in those little tubes that feed the balance shafts that are now no longer there or some shit like that. This in turn keeps your oil pressure at proper rating and supposedly higher then stock in most cases I believe.

Crank cap oil galley thingy lol


Plugs once removed. They come out with little issue so long as you have a quality set of vice grips.


Pictures of oil tube thing with pins removed.





Now the tricky part. Only part of the whole install I didn't like. The center crank cap needs to come off and on the exhaust side of the crank the hole closest to the crank needs a plug installed. A supplied tap/die thingy is included and so is the plug which requires an allen key to install. I've never done something like this before so I just said to hell with it and did it. As far as I can tell I did it right and I put a shit ton of loctite on the threads so hopefully it doesn't shake itself out. Hard to get good picture of install and all so here's best I could do.

Center cap removed


Hole that needs to be tapped and what not ha ha ha ha If you look hard enough you can kinda see the plug



Well that's all I got for now. I plan on editing this thread once I get the head back on and bolt everything together with some nice pictures of it all installed and what not so keep an eye out for that if your interested. Any questions just PM me or leave a message and I'll get back to ya when I can.

Also remember this is my first write up/review EVER so if you see any grammar and/or spelling issues let me know and I can fix it. I wont get mad or throw a fit. Also if any information I have posted seems untrue or inaccurate also let me know as I do not wish to feed anyone false knowledge.
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  #6  
Old 04-11-2012, 11:56 PM
1Slw4Dr 1Slw4Dr is offline
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There is ALWAYS some idiot that will ask, "Why can't this be done in the car?" or "Can I do this with the motor still in the car?" The answer is hell the f#ck NO!!! Here is a quick picture of why that is and also one of the pump installed on the block nice and shiny.

If you can fit a 1ft and couple inches long shaft between the block and frame then awesome. Otherwise my advice is just drop the motor.


Isn't it purddy!!!
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  #7  
Old 09-29-2012, 09:44 PM
mykep83 mykep83 is offline
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when do you put the car back in? nice thread
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  #8  
Old 09-30-2012, 08:49 AM
1Slw4Dr 1Slw4Dr is offline
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Originally Posted by mykep83 View Post
when do you put the car back in? nice thread
Week or 2. My Integra is a bitch and keeps taking money from the Prelude fund. Check out my build thread I'll be making updates here in the next few days.

http://www.preludepower.com/forums/s...hlight=popkorn
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  #9  
Old 10-01-2012, 11:23 AM
Apex1972 Apex1972 is offline
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wow, those pics are really good. what lens do you use?
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  #10  
Old 10-02-2012, 09:11 AM
1Slw4Dr 1Slw4Dr is offline
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wow, those pics are really good. what lens do you use?
I sense sarcasm in that statement lol
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  #11  
Old 03-19-2013, 10:42 PM
jsinher3 jsinher3 is offline
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sorry for bumping an old thread but, how is the motor running since you did this? im planning on doing this as well and im a lil nervous.. my main concern is because everything is torqued down im assuming bearings may have stretched and when i go to remove the caps i will need to replace the main and crank bearings or just the cap bearings because of that... if thats not the case and my stock bearing are still in good shape how can i make sure when everything is done that the bearings are installed right or wont fail because i removed the main caps?

my other concerns are is when removing the girdle how do i keep the main caps from coming out with it, and when you tapped the hole did you do this with the BS still in place or with it gone and how did you get the shavings out, or did you just leave them there?
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  #12  
Old 03-20-2013, 06:36 AM
1Slw4Dr 1Slw4Dr is offline
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Originally Posted by jsinher3 View Post
sorry for bumping an old thread but, how is the motor running since you did this? im planning on doing this as well and im a lil nervous.. my main concern is because everything is torqued down im assuming bearings may have stretched and when i go to remove the caps i will need to replace the main and crank bearings or just the cap bearings because of that... if thats not the case and my stock bearing are still in good shape how can i make sure when everything is done that the bearings are installed right or wont fail because i removed the main caps?

my other concerns are is when removing the girdle how do i keep the main caps from coming out with it, and when you tapped the hole did you do this with the BS still in place or with it gone and how did you get the shavings out, or did you just leave them there?
Motor started knocking on me. It is no longer in my car. I have yet to tear the motor down and determine if my installation of the kit was at fault. I think my oil pump just went bad honestly. The motor was used and I had no prior history of it so it could have been a number of reasons it failed.

I had the head off the motor and used compressed air to blow all the shavings out but I have seen other people that did it with the head still on so it should be fairly simple enough.

I removed the oil pump and shafts before doing all the tapping and such to keep the shavings from getting into the pump when blowing it out.

As far as replacing bearings and torque specs. The bearings will stay in place. If they do pop out though you can just place them back. The torque on the girdle is a "wet" torque so as long as you dip them in some oil and torque them properly then there shouldn't be any issue. From what I've gathered a lot of people have just put the kits on stock blocks and re torqued everything.

I will add this note that I forgot to add here that is in my build thread if you have time to look it over but the big plug in the oil pump popped out on me because when I purchased my kit I was not told it was only meant to be used on brand new pumps so me and a coworker took some stuff that is like loctite but for cylinder sleeves and used that to keep it from popping out again.

Anything else I can help with just let me know or you can PM me. I'll try to help best I can.
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  #13  
Old 03-20-2013, 07:30 AM
jsinher3 jsinher3 is offline
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Originally Posted by 1Slw4Dr View Post
Motor started knocking on me. It is no longer in my car. I have yet to tear the motor down and determine if my installation of the kit was at fault. I think my oil pump just went bad honestly. The motor was used and I had no prior history of it so it could have been a number of reasons it failed.

I had the head off the motor and used compressed air to blow all the shavings out but I have seen other people that did it with the head still on so it should be fairly simple enough.

I removed the oil pump and shafts before doing all the tapping and such to keep the shavings from getting into the pump when blowing it out.

As far as replacing bearings and torque specs. The bearings will stay in place. If they do pop out though you can just place them back. The torque on the girdle is a "wet" torque so as long as you dip them in some oil and torque them properly then there shouldn't be any issue. From what I've gathered a lot of people have just put the kits on stock blocks and re torqued everything.

I will add this note that I forgot to add here that is in my build thread if you have time to look it over but the big plug in the oil pump popped out on me because when I purchased my kit I was not told it was only meant to be used on brand new pumps so me and a coworker took some stuff that is like loctite but for cylinder sleeves and used that to keep it from popping out again.

Anything else I can help with just let me know or you can PM me. I'll try to help best I can.
ooh, thanks for replying back.. im going to be doing it to a JDM H23A i just brought from a engine depo but im not planing on rebuilding the thing until next year all my money went into getting the stuff i needed to get the motor swapped into my car, so i wanted to see if it could be done with out it having to be completely torn down. but just to be on the safe side i think i might just invest on the bearings and replace them. besides the oil pan gasket, what other gaskets will i need to get or should replace when i do the BS removal?
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  #14  
Old 03-24-2013, 09:51 AM
1Slw4Dr 1Slw4Dr is offline
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I would get a new main seal in case it gets messed up during oil pump removal and the gasket that goes behind the block off plate.
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  #15  
Old 04-07-2013, 08:18 AM
jsinher3 jsinher3 is offline
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Originally Posted by 1Slw4Dr View Post
I would get a new main seal in case it gets messed up during oil pump removal and the gasket that goes behind the block off plate.
do you know that part number to those?
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  #16  
Old 04-07-2013, 08:19 AM
jsinher3 jsinher3 is offline
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i started my BS removal with the kstuned kit. what do you guys think about this?



its the thirds bearing, right under where you are suppose to thread the hole to and place the plug... i felt it with my finger and didnt feel anything same with the crankshaft. any suggestions, on what i should do?

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  #17  
Old 04-23-2013, 08:53 AM
poncec23 poncec23 is offline
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just did this so far i like it. more vibrations sure but the reduced rotating mass and increased oil pressure is nice ill post a power input once i get tuned next friday.
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  #18  
Old 04-23-2013, 05:46 PM
1Slw4Dr 1Slw4Dr is offline
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I never noticed any increase in vibrations but yes it def is a fun mod. Gets ya up close and personal with your motor. I thought about doing it to my F22 before putting it in but time restraints didn't allow. Do you have before numbers? Be interesting to see what a private party can make with just the delete kit.
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  #19  
Old 04-24-2013, 08:41 PM
poncec23 poncec23 is offline
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Yes I had 259whp on my best pull i think. Ill have after number next friday night. Ill post them up. Infact my tuner keeps all dyno runs for a comparison so ill have him put the before and most recent on the same sheet and email it to me
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  #20  
Old 04-24-2013, 08:43 PM
poncec23 poncec23 is offline
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Also I have innovative street/race mounts to its more noticable than with stock mounts and I agree it was fun to tear into a motor. I want ti build one next
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  #21  
Old 04-24-2013, 08:53 PM
1Slw4Dr 1Slw4Dr is offline
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Awesome! Can't wait to see that.
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