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Need help ASAP. Car got overheated...now it won't even start.

16K views 51 replies 12 participants last post by  Shiloh51933 
#1 ·
I have a 99 SH Prelude. The car got overheated bc of a coolant leak from the main line (the radiator hose to the engine). There was a cut on hose so the coolant got all over the engine bay. The car shut off when I got almost to the house. Replace the radiator hose...it starts fine for a couple of days...then it won't start...it only cranks. Replace the ignition coil and the module inside the distributor cap bc it was going bad. It works after pushed start the car...starts fine for another couple of days. Now it doesn't even starts...a weak crank for a couple of seconds...then only a clicking noise now. What is the problem with my car? Much help is appreciated.
 
#4 ·
Just because it's new doesn't mean not check it lol. There's always a chance something went wrong - better safe than sorry.


So your coolant is topped, and it ran after you fixed the leak. At lest it doesn't sound like you seized the motor.
 
#8 · (Edited)
It's possible the fuel pump. But you would still be able to start up with the leftover fuel in the system. It would run for 10 seconds or so but it'd still run.


I kill my fuelpump power too many times and forget about it - surprised it's not burned up yet.



Howabout your ignition switch? on some years there was a recall.... do a quick search on the symptoms for that real quick


edit*

http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=341545&highlight=ignition+switch
http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=338037&highlight=ignition+switch
http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=338383&highlight=ignition+switch
 
#10 ·
Check your coolant and oil for contamination. If you see a milky brown sludge in either you probably warped the head. Do a compression test as well just to make sure you still have compression in the motor. Either would indicate a headgasket.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Some heads can be redecked by a machine shop. I had to do that on my BMW when I let it overheat and the head warped. $500 later... Not to mention you're taking the ENTIRE engine apart to replace the gasket.

I just checked both...there are not any milky brown sludge. But my oil cap smell like gas...don't know how that get into my motor...probably from the spark plugs I'm guessing.
That's a good sign that theres not any milky stuff in your coolant, that means that oil hasn't found it's way in there which would be a sign of a blown headgasket/warped head. As for the gas smell, you may have flooded the engine trying to start it. Take the plugs out, pull the fuel pump fuse, and crank the motor a few times. That should clear the flooding condition. Wipe the excess gas off the plugs and put the fuse back in.

In EXTREME cases (Learned this trick from RX7 owners, rotaries are notorious for flooding if you start the car, move it 5 feet, and then park) gas can contaminate the oil, and that will cause a low compression state, which is only compounded by trying to start the car, which adds more fuel to the problem. A quick way to raise compression is to remove the plugs, take a teaspoon of oil and drop it in each cylinder through the plug holes, If you have a syringe and can shoot it directly onto the piston through the hole it works best. This artificially raises the compression of the motor a bit. Put her back together and start the car. EXPECT LOTS OF SMOKE. LOTS. Until that oil burns off at least. Do NOT try this in a closed garage. The car may stall out once the oil burns off, and that would indicate your compression is still too low to run the car. I'd suggest changing the oil and trying again at that point. But at least you may be able to get it started.

Good luck. I can't agree with shiloh more though, DO NOT RUN A CAR OVERHEATED. EVER. Tow it home.
 
#13 ·
Possibly plugs, more likely injector seals since you ran her overheated. U know now to never run a.motor u care about overheating, pull over.and.shut. I'd tow mine home or try and diagnose/repair onsite. Bad injectors would make more sense from your posted symptoms. If you haven't done a compression test then do a test asap and I would bechecking your injectors.
 
#15 ·
The plugs were kinda of wet and it was kinda of black (probably from the gas). The car doesn't even crank...just clicking noise now. I probably change the oil tomorrow and see what happen. Also need the compression tool to do the compression test. How do I do the oil test if it doesn't even cranks?
 
#16 · (Edited)
Did you burn out your starter or kill your battery? Jump start the thing. If it's your starter going bad you can try either jumping the car directly from the post on the starter (negative terminal to - battery, + terminal to the post on the starter). Sometimes hitting it with a high enough voltage will force the starter motor to turn. Other trick would be having someone hold the key in the start position and hitting the starter motor with a hammer. If the brushes in the starter are binding either way is likely to break them free.
 
#19 ·
Just change the oil...my battery was low, so I went to Autozone and got it recharge. The only problem right now is there is no spark so the car won't start. What is the problem? The mechanic that came to my house thinks is the distributor...but I'm going to check the spark plug wires first. Any suggestions?
 
#23 ·
Well, Have you checked ALL your fuses? Start with that.
Try starting it with starting fluid does it start?
No spark? pull the wire from the ignition coil. Spark there?
DON'T THROW PARTS AT IT!
Check for voltage at the coil. If you know know how, get a meter and a manual.
Get a noid light tester, check for injector firing.
When a mechanic says "Thinks", Don't go replacing the distributor.
 
#27 ·
Has anyone hooked up a scanner to point you in the right direction, sounds like your timing via PCM or one of the sensors(CKP,CYP,TDC) that feed the PCM info.. An OBD II scanner should tell you something if your not getting spark like you said. That distributor you got was used right, it could be bad itself since they seem to be problematic on some of them.
 
#28 ·
Has anyone hooked up a scanner to point you in the right direction, sounds like your timing via PCM or one of the sensors(CKP,CYP,TDC) that feed the PCM info.. An OBD II scanner should tell you something if your not getting spark like you said. That distributor you got was used right, it could be bad itself since they seem to be problematic on some of them.
Good point. I'm not sure which one but I believe one of those sensors being bad can cause a no spark condition. That said, I'm more inclined to believe that since the OP didn't have trouble until he overheated the car, that overheating is still at the root of the issue.
 
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