Honda Prelude Forum banner

HOW TO: H22 Auto Tensioner to H23 Manual Tensioner Conversion

329K views 174 replies 73 participants last post by  teco 
#1 · (Edited)
Write-up done by Scott Bryars

This seems to be a hot topic for the H22 owners out there. Here is a step by step "how to" conversion to the more reliable H23 (manual) style of tensioner. The H22a block used, is obviously a "mock-up", so don't be critical of the missing pieces. This conversion can be done in the car, but in this case it was done out of the car for illustration purposes only.


Parts list:

13404-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., BALANCER BELT
13415-PT0-000 - BRACKET, BALANCER BELT ADJUSTER
14510-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., TIMING BELT
14516-PT2-000 - SPRING COMP., TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER
90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE
90015-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER SPRING
90016-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM)

Here is a link for the parts list: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto....%282%29
____________________________________________________________
This is a frontal and side shot of what the auto tensioner set up looks like with the timing belt cover, balance shaft crank pulley, balance shaft belt, and timing belt out of the way.
All of these thing will need to be removed to do this conversion.



Start by removing the auto tensioner pieces. These following pictures should be fairly self explanitory.




These following pieces will be removed from the h22 in this step and set aside for later use.


With the parts removed this is what it looks like.


This step, we will remove the troublesome auto tensioner.


With the auto tesioner gone, we will remove the rest of the tensioner mechanism. The following pictures should be self explanatory.






Now, with the complete auto tesioner mechanism removed, we are ready to add the manual tensioner parts.


This bolt and washer are what we start with. The factory washer is critical! It has a larger diameter than the block casting. This is a factory Honda part #90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM), but for those of you who are lazy or pinching pennies, the diameter is 40mm and the thickness is 1.5mm If the wrong washer is used, improper alignment can occure as well as limited movement of the timing belt tensioner pulley.




These 2 pieces will be added next.





Add the timing belt tensioner pulley and check to see if it has full movement on its pivot.





Next we will install the balance shaft tensioner pulley. For this install, we will re-use the H22 part. The H23 part has a larger spacer that places it further out away from the timing belt pulley. I recomend using the H23 part (not shown), but with a few washers (used as spacers) the H22 pulley (pictured) can be used correctly.




If you are reusing the H22 part, MAKE SURE THE PULLEYS CLEAR EACH OTHER! This is a common mistake and can be catastrophic. When reusing the h22 balance shaft tensioner pulley, the pulleys must not touch! if you are using a h23 balance shaft tensioner pulley, there is no need to worry. it is already spaced properly.


Reinstall the balance shaft tensioner retainer.


Manual style tensioner in place completely. front and side views.

 
See less See more
32
#4 ·
This should be a sticky if it isn't already...I've already done this conversion myself :grin:
 
#5 ·
it's going in the resource thread. thanks blake :emthup:
 
#7 ·
so that parts list is just for the swap only, right? Cause I need to supposedly replace my auto-tensioner (which means I need to replace the timing belt and water pump). Are those not included in that parts list? I need to know all the parts in order to get all this fixed.

btw, awesome write-up
 
#13 ·
Thanks bro! I'll be using this when I change my timing belt at 85K :)
 
#14 ·
Yeah, just looking through the resource thread here and I echo PreludeSH2000's question: Does the manual tensioner ever need re-adjustment? I was under the impression that it does not, but then a local mechanic friend of mine (who really knows his shit) said that as far as he knows, a manual tensioner would have to be re-adjusted periodically.
 
#15 ·
*bump* Still wanting to know for sure, as I'm about to do this. I've heard different things from different people, all of them very reliable sources. Do I ever have to readjust a manual tensioner after initial installation, or not?
 
#59 ·
I've read this whole thread and still don't hear much talk about the maintenance of the MANUAL tensioner. You said you didn't see the need to adjust it, if that was the case then Honda would have put a manual tensioner on all cars and just called it out on the 30k, 60k, or 90k service interval to check the belt tension. I can't imagine there is any advantage to going manual on a stock engine or even an engine w/ a few mods. On the flip side of that, my Ducati runs a kevlar timing belt w/ manual adjustment and once I set it I don't ever mess with it. Of course I can't compare the pressure/load on the each belt and the Ducati doesn't do anywhere near the miles the Honda does.

So in short, how are you guys actually measuring tension on the belt, and how often do you feel compelled to check it?
 
#17 ·
My question is, What is part #14521-P14-A00 Plate/Adjuster used for? I have helped 2 different people do the swap and never been able to figure out where it goes.

It is listed as one of the parts needed, but it not used in your write up either. I have seen other people on other sites list it in swap kits for the H22 also.

Thanks,
Mike
mnhondaparts@gmail.com
 
G
#21 · (Edited)
In Pic #18 & #19 there is shown a small threaded "pivot shaft" that is shown to be threaded into the block. I am doing this conversion and ordered the parts list posted here. I received a small plate not viewed in any of these pics. It appears to bolt to block right where the auto tensioner bolted, the bolt pattern is the same. That "pivot shaft" did not match the threads on my block where it is shown in #18 & #19 being installed. It did however fit the bracket (bolted where auto tensioner was), I believe that this is how you lock the pulley into position on a h23. On this application, however, I am finding that the belt is already pretty tight at full loosen on this bracket.

My question:

Is there an additional part # that I need to order to get the piece from #18 & #19 ?, I think I need something there for the timing tensioner pulley to pivot on.

anyone follow what I'm saying ?, I'll try to get some pics and put them up.
 
#26 ·
stiffer valvesprings put more stress or "tension" on the timing belt thus wearing out the stock autotensioner quicker than normal. With built motors, especially, you dont want your timing belt coming loose, lol.

This allows you to manually tension the belt and you dont have to worry about it failing.
 
G
#27 ·
I'm assuming that nobody here knows the answer to my questions a few posts back?


There are still gaps in this write up, parts that are not shown to be installed are on the list provided.......still some confusion.


After installing my kit, I think that there are 2 ways to install this conversion.
 
#28 ·
Well, I do know that there is one part, a bracket I believe, that all the writeups I have found for this include in the parts list, but is never used for the conversion. So I'm sure that's what you're thinking of...
 
G
#29 ·
Well, I do know that there is one part, a bracket I believe, that all the writeups I have found for this include in the parts list, but is never used for the conversion. So I'm sure that's what you're thinking of...

If it's the one with 2 bolt holes and a threaded hole, it goes right where the auto tensioner bolted up, with the 2 bottom bolt holes. The oval adjustment slot (vertical, slightly curved) on the manual tensioner bracket, is where I have a threaded pin (came with part kit) threaded into the threaded hole in this bracket that we speak of.

My confusion;

the write up shows a similar threaded pin being installed in the block just to the upper right of the manual tensioner bracket, the bracket pivots or appears to pivot on this pin.

My pin (in parts kit) would not thread into the block as it was too small and threads did not match. Instead I installed it as mentioned above.

my threaded pin is also made of aluminum, the one shown to be installed looks to be brass colored.

I don't believe that both this part and the one that I have can be installed on the same motor, the belt would be too tight to install in my opinion. My belt had to be stretched into place, even with the pulley at full loose.

I'll try to email a pic to you tonight.


Andy.:)
 
#30 ·
since this thread has been dead for a while, il bring it back up for a question. i've read that the bracket (14521-P14-A00) is suppose to be installed where the auto tensioner use to be. does anyone have a pic of it? im a rookie but want to do this just incase something was to happen and from what people been saying, auto tensioners are very bad... so if anyone has pics of the manual tensioner installation WITH ALL THE PARTS LISTED, please post them...thank u
 
#31 ·
also anyone that is familiar with this thread, on pic 28, theres a washer in between the tension pulley and the balance shaft pulley. where can i get that washer. i went to the dealership and they couldnt find that washing in their schematics. and its needed because i butted up both pulleys and they rub. also, the bracket that was brought up that goes where the auto tensioner use to go, its suppose to bolt onto the tension pulley as like it was to hold the pulley in place. i cant find that screw eigther at the dealership. anyone can help me???
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top