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What are the signs of the engine about to throw a rod?

25K views 23 replies 15 participants last post by  Norwegian 
#1 ·
Just like the title says... What are the ways you can tell the engine is about the throw a rod?
 
#3 ·
Is that when the engine is on? Would I hear it all the time? I only hear it when I shut the car off and when I turn it on sometimes.
 
#5 ·
LudaPower said:
How would you hear rod knock with the car off anyways? They don't have parties when you turn the car off.
:lol: :lol: :lol: That made me laugh
 
#7 ·
Well it sounds like knocking.. thats why they call it rod knock. metal to metal knocking.
You know in the movies when you see a car go out of gas.. and they make that stupid ass noise of a car going out of gas when it actually sounds like rod knock.. well yea thats it.. to my knowledge.
 
#8 ·
if you think your car has rod knock then there are several signs first off you'll have low oil pressure, might see metal shavings in the oil when you do an oil change. Advanced signs of rod-knock will be when you're sitting at idle and the engine is fully warmed and the oil light flickers rapidly not a constant and steady blinking like as if you did a hard turn and experienced a dry spell. And of course when you start your engine from it sitting for a while you might be able to hear a knocking until oil pressure builds and quiets the noise.
 
#9 ·
1. First off you'll have low oil pressure, might see metal shavings in the oil when you do an oil change.
2. Advanced signs of rod-knock will be when you're sitting at idle and the engine is fully warmed and the oil light flickers rapidly not a constant and steady blinking like as if you did a hard turn and experienced a dry spell.
3. Of course when you start your engine from it sitting for a while you might be able to hear a knocking until oil pressure builds and quiets the noise.

I don't have any of that but I will double check my oil when I change it.
 
#10 ·
ReyKe said:
if you think your car has rod knock then there are several signs first off you'll have low oil pressure, might see metal shavings in the oil when you do an oil change. Advanced signs of rod-knock will be when you're sitting at idle and the engine is fully warmed and the oil light flickers rapidly not a constant and steady blinking like as if you did a hard turn and experienced a dry spell. And of course when you start your engine from it sitting for a while you might be able to hear a knocking until oil pressure builds and quiets the noise.
OOw that brings back some not so fun memories....
 
#14 ·
Well you might not notice a knock at idle.. but once you get on the gas it CAN be very loud, if it is, you know you are on borrowed time :(
 
#21 ·
heyfrench said:
to see if anyone would laugh at my post :(
lol chuckle, chuckle, chuckle!


yeah just how you described it.

when m yrod was knocking on the civic , i right away knew what it was...

i was going 60 miles/h and i slammed it in third to pop it... i didn't care.
 
#22 ·
when i developed a rod knock in my 89, the oil light never flickered at all, and there was never any metal shavings in the oil. and when it sat for a while, it never made any unusual sounds immediately after starting. only way i knew was that i noticed it slowly losing power over a few weeks time, and eventually (once i turned the stereo down) noticed it made a rapping/knocking sound between 2k-4k. soon as i noticed that i immediately drove home and spent 16 hours nonstop tearing the motor completely down and rebuilding it with all new gaskets, rings, and bearings.

then came the joy of knowing the motor was fresh again and could be beaten on again very severely with no problems to arise (at least not for 50,000 miles or so). but goddamnit i hate waiting 3,000 miles to rev over 3k, and doing an oil change after 10 miles and every 1,000 miles thereafter for 3,000 miles. that 3,000 miles seemed like it took years to accomplish. and the whole never going over 55mph for the first 1500 miles for more than a few minutes also bothered me.

im so impatient, but at least i do it the RIGHT way, and take absolutely no chances. it pays off big time. now if only some people would follow suit and do the same, they might not come back complaining about how they threw a rod bearing only 500 miles or less after a rebuild

if anyone has ever seen a brand new motorcycle at a shop, or bought one brand new, they would know the sticker i am talking about when i mention the recommended break in procedure, as far as what rpms you can go to after certain mileage, and keeping it below certain speeds for certain mileage. now, cars dont have this. this doesnt mean brand new cars dont need to go through a break-in procedure when bought, cuz they do still to last without problems. the difference in why bikes have the sticker and vehicles dont, is cuz vehicles are somewhat broken in at the factory before being shipped to a dealer. aka, mileage on the car does not represent mileage on the motor. they are broken in to an extent before being installed in a completed car. bikes are not broken in at the factory, they are slapped together and shipped off.
therefore, rebuilt motors need to be very carefully broken in, you cant just jump in them, drive for 100 miles below 4k and think it'll be fine to drive however you wish after that
 
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