Hello everyone! I'm Benny and I've just taken ownership of one of my favourite Honda's so far!
Give you an idea of my Previous Honda's Here's my DC2 (USDM Style)
And my most recently completed and Mag featured HellaFlush CRX del sol
Now onto the good stuff!
1987 BA2 Mk2 Prelude 2.0i-16
One of the last Mk2's made it has a non-VTEC B20 engine, Cool as fark factory single wiper, Shagpile carpets, SUPER comfy seats, optional amazing squidgy spoiler and . . . . . FLIPPY LIGHTS!!!!! Haha
Actually LOVE this car already. It drives like new, no really, it does.
54K on the clocks and it's pretty much the definition of immaculate.
Plans are:
To lower ASAP
Source an HKS Windmaster exhaust
Find some temporary track wheels
Source some old skool Deep dish SSR wheels 15x8 ET's in the minus's
Then get them to fit lol
Time for some pics!
Retro wheels!
Single wiper! + weird bonnet spoiler thing
LOOOOVE the spoiler
Interior is IMMACULATE
Woot!
My questions to you lovely people are:
Will 3G suspension fit?
As BC Racing make a Coilover Kit for the 3G and not the 2G.
How can I avoid the UCA Fouling the body without cutting the struts up?
Benny, I'm currently running the GAZ coilovers (silly head) on my white car and koni/gcs on my red car. Also I'm only running extended top hats that i made for the fronts. no rears. with the 8" long springs in the rears, there isn't any need for them in the rear. regardless, the shocks are to long in the fronts no matter how big your top hats are. I filed a groove in my shocks to get the shock further down into the front lower fork. This gives about 3/4 of an inch and still retains the factory bolt and is literally the only way to get the shock body away from the body of the car. either way, i'm not sure that its the uca or the shocks themselves hitting the body. the bodies really aren't that short.
Rich, I noticed something weird with my gaz fronts... one side seems to turn and turn and turn (although I didn't get to crazy with it, but i'd say maybe around 10 clicks i stopped (how many clicks are there?) The other side however, only have 5 clicks before its seems to hit some sort of resistance. I've not tried to overcome this resistance for fear i would break something. Really to be honest i thought it only had 5 clicks and that the other side was f*cked up. any advice is appreciated.
Here is a picture of the unpainted 20 dollar top hats...
I did paint them and they worked out pretty well, just not the prettiest welds. I did double weld the inside bottom (welded both the outside and the inside) and the "cap" (above and below) just to make sure this thing doesn't come apart. Not the most beautiful part, however prettier than my other setup. If i do make them again (which i may for the red car) i'd definately weld EVERYTHING interior, out of sight. This was my first set i've ever made personally.
Have you got a picture from other angles? and if you could give me a drawing with measurements that'd be great!
My front GAZ's are on 14 CLicks and I might turn them up some more to be honest I had them on 6 and it was waaaaaaaaay too soft the front end would compress down and feel all squishy.
real simple. 1.75 DOM tubing with a .093" wall thickness. two inches on the bottom. 1/2 on top (for bushing locator) and some 1/8 thick square stock. weld everything up. drill a hole for the bushing sleeve (9/16 works perfect) and then cut of as much as possible from underneath. In hindsight, i'd have cut open the bottoms first. then tack weld the tubing on top to locate it, then welded everthing underneath. Reason? looks better and of course you'd have to just barely open up the shock tower. I used a 2 1/16 inch hole saw bit to cut mine open, and it ended up being the perfect size. but cutting things like this open always sketches me out.
materials...
first weld...
plate welded and the top bushing locator
after lots and lots of grinding to smooth everything out...
Just to give you guys the heads up, as low as my car was i was hitting upper control arms on the shock tower. Ive raised up a little and slide my shock back back up in the pinch fork to reduce the preload and niw the car feels much better. Im going to get it aligned but to be honest, im still leaning towards the valving in the konis over the gaz...
I can't go any lower due to humps and to be honest being another inch lower I really can't see it making any difference to handling as Dave said being lower is not allways better!!
If your going to be slamming it that low then it could be causing an issue, maybe worth having a word with GAZ see if they can make a different front shock for you, but I'm well happy with my setup I can't go any lower due to humps and to be honest being another inch lower I really can't see it making any difference to handling as Dave said being lower is not allways better!! Koni do make excellent shocks and are better than Gaz in design, but they need revalving on top of the cost of the shocks, plus shipping two ways, unless you can get them revalved in US?? I'd definately get some decent coilover sleeve adapters the ones that can be welded with the pound springs you use for extra safety.
To be honest maybe should have gone and spent a bit extra over Gaz and gone with hotbits which could have tailored on better adjustable shocks and ally top hats although you'd probably still run into shock travel issues with those too. I think your just trying to be a little too extreme, I'd set yours up to the same height as mine and try my same geo settings and see how you get on I'm sure my setup with proper track tyres on would be awesome it already does feel awesome with wets on!! When on the race track it's just great and on decent non bumpy roads holds corners better than the Beemer which handles brilliantly anyway compared to most tuned cars!
Have you tried adjusting the damping much yet? I've got mine turned up quite high all round and my Geo is -3.5 camber on front (can go to -4 and does feel good trying to make tyres last longer!) 0 toe in on front, and on the rear I have -2 camber (be good to get that upto -3) and toe in at 1 degree in the dry when tyres upto heat this setup is really balanced with a hint of oversteer although I control this with rear ride height, if I want more OS then go higher on the back, if less go lower. In the wet it is a handful if you don't pay attention lots of power off oversteer so you have to keep the power on all the time to keep it pulling in the right direction but it makes it fun to drive!!
hey rich, I'm guessing your talking towards me... Let me know what your pavement to high arch clearance is, and I might try it. I'm also considering maybe making some slightly shorter extended top hats, but I doubt that i will. However I am REALLY curious about the rear camber options you have thought up... I'm digging the adjustable rear pillow ball (ish) mount option... but i've also been thinking about making a piece that is one unit that fits into the stock mount for the lower control arms and move the lower control arms out... like this, btw this is NOT to scale, took about 10 mins to crank this out
If the offset on those are very high e.g 45-50 then it maybe possible but you'll definatey have to roll the rear arches in and maybe even have them pushed out a bit to fit adapters on and the wheels
I LOOOOVE the SSR's tho! They are at the polishers at the mo and I've got Marine grade Stainless allen head bolts coming to replace the prehistoric SSR Hardware.
Umm they cost me about £150 with the handle and import charges lol
I'm in the UK and there isn't any laws against blinds here.
Update:
Well shortly after I attended the Type2Detectives/StanceWorks coffee morning meet in Cambridge my gearbox decided to lock the diff completely and I was in a bit of a pickle.
After sourcing a 2nd hand box from the ledge that is Rjudgey, I had it sent off and new bearings fitted and the insides checked over. The new 60K miles box was better than my 54K miles box so it came back and with the help of some mates we refitted it back in.
The state of the Diff :S There was metal fyling about everywhere in there! Chunks wedged into the casing and all sorts!
And the Output Shaft was chipped too.
So ordered up lots of stuff that needed doing like 2x upper and 2x lower ball joints, while it was easily accessible I bought a new clutch just to be on the safe side.
Also while the front crossmember was off I had a 6mm plate welded to the bottom of it, This part takes nearly all of the hits when I hit bumps in the road and Speedbumps Ect so should take a beating now as well as lots of sparks lol
Refitting the box.
So damn good to see her back on the floor, I'd forgotten how low it was Soon to be lower once the smaller tyres have been fitted to the freshly polished SSR's
Just waiting for my rocker cover to be hydro dipped so I can start the car and test the transmission. Hope all is well as Japfest is under a week away now! :O
Yea I cannot be without my Honda. My other car is a 1984 Merc Estate 280TE and it's a fucking barge that drinks fuel. So good to have my light car back!
Hey Benny good work man sweet ride amazing what u can do with a lotta $$$ also nice to see people complainin interforumly about me ruining my lude...kinda makes me wanna go paint some more stuff
Glad your getting there and the box has helped you out! As I said don't junk the old casing keep as spare just in case. did you gearbox chap weld a solid pin into the diff or you just gonna use it as is and take it relatively easy?
Can't believe the state of the old diff though that's incredible??? It's almost like it was run without oil for few thousand miles!!
Hey Benny good work man sweet ride amazing what u can do with a lotta $$$ also nice to see people complainin interforumly about me ruining my lude...kinda makes me wanna go paint some more stuff
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