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HOW TO: H22 Auto Tensioner to H23 Manual Tensioner Conversion

329K views 174 replies 73 participants last post by  teco 
#1 · (Edited)
Write-up done by Scott Bryars

This seems to be a hot topic for the H22 owners out there. Here is a step by step "how to" conversion to the more reliable H23 (manual) style of tensioner. The H22a block used, is obviously a "mock-up", so don't be critical of the missing pieces. This conversion can be done in the car, but in this case it was done out of the car for illustration purposes only.


Parts list:

13404-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., BALANCER BELT
13415-PT0-000 - BRACKET, BALANCER BELT ADJUSTER
14510-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., TIMING BELT
14516-PT2-000 - SPRING COMP., TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER
90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE
90015-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER SPRING
90016-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM)

Here is a link for the parts list: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto....%282%29
____________________________________________________________
This is a frontal and side shot of what the auto tensioner set up looks like with the timing belt cover, balance shaft crank pulley, balance shaft belt, and timing belt out of the way.
All of these thing will need to be removed to do this conversion.



Start by removing the auto tensioner pieces. These following pictures should be fairly self explanitory.




These following pieces will be removed from the h22 in this step and set aside for later use.


With the parts removed this is what it looks like.


This step, we will remove the troublesome auto tensioner.


With the auto tesioner gone, we will remove the rest of the tensioner mechanism. The following pictures should be self explanatory.






Now, with the complete auto tesioner mechanism removed, we are ready to add the manual tensioner parts.


This bolt and washer are what we start with. The factory washer is critical! It has a larger diameter than the block casting. This is a factory Honda part #90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM), but for those of you who are lazy or pinching pennies, the diameter is 40mm and the thickness is 1.5mm If the wrong washer is used, improper alignment can occure as well as limited movement of the timing belt tensioner pulley.




These 2 pieces will be added next.





Add the timing belt tensioner pulley and check to see if it has full movement on its pivot.





Next we will install the balance shaft tensioner pulley. For this install, we will re-use the H22 part. The H23 part has a larger spacer that places it further out away from the timing belt pulley. I recomend using the H23 part (not shown), but with a few washers (used as spacers) the H22 pulley (pictured) can be used correctly.




If you are reusing the H22 part, MAKE SURE THE PULLEYS CLEAR EACH OTHER! This is a common mistake and can be catastrophic. When reusing the h22 balance shaft tensioner pulley, the pulleys must not touch! if you are using a h23 balance shaft tensioner pulley, there is no need to worry. it is already spaced properly.


Reinstall the balance shaft tensioner retainer.


Manual style tensioner in place completely. front and side views.

 
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#32 ·
i just did this ...i would of took pics but its back together....
the washers are just washers that space the two pulleys(adjusters)

it you buy everything on the list ..you won't need the washers in between the two pulleys(adjusters)

when putting on the timing belt , i had a hell of a time doing it...so i put the belt on every pulley then put the belt on the adjuster pulley..

also be very careful with the crankshaft sensor had to replace mine and it was 179 bucks , on top of replacing the new belts i just put on ...cut and nicked them up after the F'ing thing came loose...

any questions i'll try to clear them up ....

brad
 
#33 ·
thanks for the info. the god damn dealership for some reason gave me a new balance shaft tensioner pulley for the h22. i thought i was loosing my mind when i called people that sells the conversions and told me i dont need a washer. i kept telling them "u said when i put the pulleys together, it shouldn't rub". but mine was and come to find out, honda dealership sold me the balance pulley for h22 instead of the h23.
 
#34 ·
I think it should be mentioned also that you can pick up this kit for $89 from Import Replacement Parts.


I also have a question. The list says that part "13415-PT0-000 - BRACKET, BALANCER BELT ADJUSTER" should be used. But when I ordered the kit I received Honda part number 13415-POA-000. Is this the same? Any one know.
 
#35 · (Edited)
I also have a question. The list says that part "13415-PT0-000 - BRACKET, BALANCER BELT ADJUSTER" should be used. But when I ordered the kit I received Honda part number 13415-POA-000. Is this the same? Any one know.
Yes it is the same just a newer number.

Mike (H4L)
 
#41 ·
yea u guys are right if u order the parts off the list you wont have a problem but the fucken dealership sold me the wrong balancer pulley. the h22 balancer pulley does not have the spacers built on it and the h23 does have a spacer built on the pulley. thats why i couldnt figure out why my pulleys were rubbing. but its good now. i just gota fight the battle on finding out how to set the balance shaft drive pulley thats to the right of the crank below the water pump
 
#50 ·
hey juiced. when you have the belts on please take pics... i have not got my problem resolved yet. thebalance shaft pulley. cant figure out how its suppose to line up. i see 2 markings on my balancer pulley thats to the right of the crank and below the water pump. 1 marking is on the outer edge looks like an indentation dot. and the other marking is a notch cut out on the innner edge of the gear looks like a v shape.
 
#55 · (Edited)
I'm not sure if it has been mentioned in this thread or not, but if you plan on getting rid of the balancer shafts/belts, just use PN: 92510A826 (aluminum spacer) from McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com). This works perfectly instead of the heavy h23 balancer shaft tensioner, or reusing the equally heavy h22 balancer shaft tensioner with washers. Saves more than a couple bucks too (if you decide to buy the h23 balancer shaft tensioner)! Over 30 bucks saved! This was originally the idea of "skrewdlude" from honda-tech. Hats off to you my friend..

A picture of my conversion with the McMaster spacer...



Very lightweight aluminum and sexy! Some specs on the piece from McMaster-Carr if you decide to find your own somewhere else....

Desc: Aluminum Unthreaded Round Spacer
Size: 1" Od, 1" Length, 1/2" Screw Size
 
#60 ·
if a manual tensioner back off on tension, then it needs to be replaced. You shouldn't ever have to retension the belt unless doing work on the timing belt. Using a manual tensioner is just added insurance, not to mention that it lasts longer and is much easier to work with than an auto tensioner
 
#61 ·
How do you accurately measure the tension w/o a special tool? Or did you purchase one?
 
#67 ·
Update on my timing belt job:

Held up by the Crank Pulley Bolt! 28" breaker bar and probably 300 ft lbs of torque will not budge it! Fortunately I hadn't taken that much apart on the car because now I have to drive it into EagleEye's shop and have him put an impact wrench on it.

Tip: Have your crank pulley bolt broke loose at a shop BEFORE you begin your T-belt job at home. Trust me.
 
#125 ·
Update on my timing belt job:

Held up by the Crank Pulley Bolt! 28" breaker bar and probably 300 ft lbs of torque will not budge it! Fortunately I hadn't taken that much apart on the car because now I have to drive it into EagleEye's shop and have him put an impact wrench on it.

Tip: Have your crank pulley bolt broke loose at a shop BEFORE you begin your T-belt job at home. Trust me.
wrong, this is the way to go. im 200 pounds and didnt even put my full weight in it. It's 180 ft-lbs. "http://www.youtube.com/v/RE-pzP8g_x...&feature=player_embedded&fs=1"></param><param
 
#68 ·
lol. jlude. thats so true. I tried 3foot breaker bars. 75lb impact gun. 300ft gun and finally couldn't do anything. so my friends dad from honda came over with a impact gun called Earthquake puts out 1000+ft tq. that sucker came right off! :Rock:
 
#69 ·
I actually didn't mean to post that in this thread. heh.
 
#72 ·
got damn crank pully bolt. Shit What is the torque spec on this fucking thing?
I think the spec is in the 150 Ft Lb neighborhood. :shock:
 
#74 ·
Does anyone know what this part is for? It came with my manual tensioner kit but no mention of this bracket is shown in this DIY?!!! According to the parts list this is 14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER But what does it do? Where does it go?





EDIT: I answered my own questiong by reading this entire thread:


That bracket goes where the old autotensioner was.
 
#75 ·
I'm going to have to do this pretty soon for my other motor :)
 
#76 ·
wow... all that effort for the pulley bolt? I work at honda so I borrowed the "special pulley tool" which is about 28 inches long and had a 2 ft breaker bar... took me a few seconds to break it loose. I did try an impact on it first, didn't do shit. I'm curious how hard it is to swap the tensioner while the engine is in the car?
 
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