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New to PP.com? Ask your noob questions HERE!

729K views 9K replies 760 participants last post by  1funryd 
#1 · (Edited)
I'm taking the initiative, hopefully this will end up being stickied, so that I can be immortalized in my glory for such a brilliant idea.

So here you go...if you're new to preludepower, or if you're too stupid and lazy to use the valuable search tool, or if you tried searching and you're afraid of getting yelled at for making a new thread, then ask your question here. Almost every question a noob has to ask has been covered before, so instead of having 7 thousand threads a day that the mods have to lock after 2 replies...ask here...we'll *try* to go easy on you.

To help keep this from being a clusterfuck, if you're answering a question, please quote the question in your reply....if that makes any sense.
 
#4 ·
radiator is pretty easy, you just drain the coolant into a catch (take the coolant for proper disposal) then disconnect the fans and the fan switch at the bottom of the radiator, take off the hoses, detach the ac hoses from the fans, unbolt the bar across the top and it should slide up.

the radiator comes out with the two fans mounted on it.
 
#4,091 ·
Hey I am a N00B, so I am posting in here at first. Give me a break, im new to forums and the car world.

I saw where you said that you can download the owners manual for my 3rd gen. but i cant find the stickie on pp.com or the link on prelude3g.com.

Help plz. Also, if you know a good link to show me exactly where to look in my engine bay for my clutch slave and master cylinder, it would be helpful
 
#5 ·
boost

Well first of all Im Russ from okc, ok.. Im new to the site but ive had several 3rd gens... at the current time I have an 89 si 4ws, that is currently on blocks.. lol Im doing a full suspension and brake rebuild... So the car is completely undrivable. I have 95% of the parts i need to rebuild just no time. I have been thinkin about turbocharging.... while its down...


heres my ????????

is there any way to achieve 300 hp with a JDM b20a TURBO SETUP???
Without resleaving or rebuilding? What would be the best turbo to use to achieve high hp on the b20a... I am aware of the obd1 swap that has to occur as well as compatible ecu's, and about 450cc dsm injectors..just not the size, spooling and whatnot.... Any help would be awesome

thanx
 
#6 ·
Well first of all Im Russ from okc, ok.. Im new to the site but ive had several 3rd gens... at the current time I have an 89 si 4ws, that is currently on blocks.. lol Im doing a full suspension and brake rebuild... So the car is completely undrivable. I have 95% of the parts i need to rebuild just no time. I have been thinkin about turbocharging.... while its down...


heres my ????????

is there any way to achieve 300 hp with a JDM b20a TURBO SETUP???
Without resleaving or rebuilding? What would be the best turbo to use to achieve high hp on the b20a... I am aware of the obd1 swap that has to occur as well as compatible ecu's, and about 450cc dsm injectors..just not the size, spooling and whatnot.... Any help would be awesome

thanx

read here: Sticky: OBD1 Conversion for Tuning and Fuel Management (
1 2)
1funryd
 
#8 ·
msd

I also found a brand new msd 6al ignition system for 200 would i be able to use this on my 89 3g????
 
#13 ·
I bought my manifold from pp member super soviet soldier. He has a few more last time I checked.
 
#14 ·
Yeah, For now LSD is still selling already produced parts. They may or may not get back into fabrications...it's just that Mike is basically running EVERYTHING, and he's only one man and can only do so much.

LSD Motorsports is going to be doing some great things in the upcoming year or so...lots of expansion, so don't count them out altogether. They've already branched out into selling wheels and tires, I'll most likely start buying all my tires from LSD once they start running out.

If only they did motorcycles....
 
#15 ·
me again...so i replaced the radiator & all is well.

but whenever i drive on the highway like 55-65mph, it feels like my engine is straining itself to pull even that off & the rpms are really high. is there any way to i guess lower the rpms at higher speeds? if that makes sense...other than swapping the engine & transmission

'89 si
 
#16 ·
Yes you can get a accord 5th gear but that requires taking your tranny apart and taking your old 5th gear out and putting that accord one in.

If thats something you want to look into than search it.
 
#21 ·
alright im new to the site.. looking for some help and answers with my 90 si. I have a rod knock now which is getting worse in my b21 just replaced head gasket last summer . but im wondering whither i should get the rod bearings done and fixed up or should i just look for a new motor such as a b20.. i would like to turbo the car for next summer so that would prob be my best bet.. but where would i even start out finding one and the computer and shit to fit it?
 
#22 · (Edited)
Welcome to the fourm. You should check out the FAQ sticky to find a lot of information about these cars.
Most people would tell you to dump the b21a1 and go with the b20a5. Especially if you plan to boost in the future. You don't need to swap computers with that swap if you use the manifolds from your b21. They will bolt right up. All you need is the block and head from the b20 and use everything else from your b21. I've never had much trouble finding one locally to rebuild, as there are quite a few junkyards around here. Maybe you could check junkyards around you. There's also ebay. There is a for sale section in this forum. Or you could try to find a JDM b20a here...
http://mustardcat.brinkster.net/p3g/Engine/JDMB20a/jdmb20a.htm
 
#23 ·
edit: fuck you luzer, you beat me to it by one minute! :D



Honestly, get a b20 and save yourself a lot of trouble. Especially if you want to build the motor for turbo, you're going to want that block re-sleeved. I'm kinda still waking up, and there's plenty of people who know more details about this issue, but the majority of problems in the b21 are caused by the FRM sleeves. Basically they wear out, causing the rings to not seal so well and thus, burn oil badly.

The change over to b20 is actually very straightforward as long as you keep the intake manifold from the b21. Hell you can even use the same transmission and clutch. On my girlfriend's 91 I did exactly that...used a b20 block and head, kept everything else...car runs great. Didn't need to touch the computer, car runs strong, it even feels faster than my blue 89
 
#25 ·
thanks for the reply. Yeah i have been hearing a lot about the b20 seems to be a good engine i would like a jdm.. yeah i have already been through two b21's idk why i even bought the second one. Wow that would be awesome to just switch everything over and not deal with the computer bs and all that.. is there somewhere i could look to get a list of parts i would need to turbo the b20. i know i would want to resleeve it and get pistons and rings . but how about bigger valve springs and cams would i need any of that? you know anyone that has a good set up?
 
#504 ·
thanks for the reply. Yeah i have been hearing a lot about the b20 seems to be a good engine i would like a jdm.. yeah i have already been through two b21's idk why i even bought the second one. Wow that would be awesome to just switch everything over and not deal with the computer bs and all that.. is there somewhere i could look to get a list of parts i would need to turbo the b20. i know i would want to resleeve it and get pistons and rings . but how about bigger valve springs and cams would i need any of that? you know anyone that has a good set up?

You should know that the b20a5 has way thicker block sleeves, then the B21. The B20 has been known for wearing out there piston rings, with little damage to the block, The b21 Was bassically a bored b20a5 with a thinner style of sleeves and different materails. With a good b20 bored to 81.5mm you could achieve well over 300HP safely, but what you really need is H23/F22 oem pistons to boost a B20 safely at 8 psi, anything higher you would need Forged rods
 
#26 · (Edited)
i tried looking this up but i never got a straight answer, at least not for a 3g prelude.

does removing the a/c & all it's components actually make a difference or not? if it does, what are the actual specs, like how much, if any, will it gain in hp/weight loss?

i know it's not that much, but i never use my a/c anyways. just run it with the windows down cuz i don't feel like getting it recharged all the time...

just wondering if it's something worth looking into
 
#27 ·
You will not gain any hp from removing the ac. The ac compressor spins freely till you turn your ac on which then engages the clutch on the compressor. As far as weight saving I do not know how much the whole ac system weighs.

*edit* of course removing the ac will make your car lighter thus a little faster but it will be very minimal.
 
#30 ·
low-hanging exhaust??

the 90 degree bend in the second (back) half of my exhaust is hanging really low. i've never had any issues until the other day when i was forced to go over a speed bump (i usually just go around) but this section of the exhaust scraped on the speed bump, even though i was driving really slow (<1 mph)
my car is at stock height...i was like wtffff

would getting a new cat-back section fix this? i don't think it's the stock exhaust because i can see some weld marks and it doesn't follow the natural path of the undercarriage exactly.

it's not loose or anything, in fact, it's quite sturdy, just hangs really low...

should i just go junkyard hunting?
 
#33 ·
The flex pipe absolutely was not designed to absorb speed bumps. That's what your suspension is for. If the exhaust is that low, especially at stock height, then it was made wrong. If you don't want it dragging on speed bumps either get it fixed/adjusted or stop going over speed bumps.
 
#34 ·
PS Fluid Leak/Seatbelt Retractors

i know honda made a new oil seal to fix the power steering leak, but after i replace that, how do i clean the belts/pulleys & get all the ps fluid off of them? because it sounds like my car is hissing.

also, i saw this on another post but will honda still replace the seatbelts if they don't retract properly? & if so, how much is it?
 
#35 ·
i know honda made a new oil seal to fix the power steering leak, but after i replace that, how do i clean the belts/pulleys & get all the ps fluid off of them? because it sounds like my car is hissing.

also, i saw this on another post but will honda still replace the seatbelts if they don't retract properly? & if so, how much is it?

Actually I'm planning to talk to one of the service advisers tomorrow about the seat belts. I want them to fix the seat belts on my car. It should be free under recall.

As for the shit with fluid all over it...spray it down with carb cleaner...wipe it first, of course. Carb cleaner isn't supposed to be harmful to rubber like brake cleaner.
 
#40 ·
how difficult would it be to replace the rear upper control arm? my bushings wore out & it more than likely bent the arm because that's what happened to the other arm...
That question can be answered with a question. How mechnically inclined are you? That will answer your question. And if you pull a search on the 3rd gen forum, you will find quite a lot of threads on changing out the upper control arm bushings.

You will need to have whats left in the UCA bracket pressed out, in order to replace them with another set of OEM or aftermarket bushings. Search the stickies for this information.
 
#42 ·
I couldnt find a service bulletin regarding the seatbelts not retracting. Some dealers, however, will honor this and replace the seatbelts, some won't. It depends on the person you're talking to...I'd probly say right now that it's less likely to work with the economy being in the shitter. They're more inclined to deny you because there's no money coming in from replacing your seat belts.

Personally, I plan to ditch the door belts in favor of a harness.
 
#43 ·
Personally, I plan to ditch the door belts in favor of a harness.
Is your car caged? I've been doing research on five points,and found an article that says if your top mounts are too low it will compress your spine and cause damage......
If you are caged,please post,I've got mine to the point where it can toss me from the stock belt..
I've searched cages but damn you should see the result!
 
#51 ·
Hi guys. I was wondering if you guys had info on how I can turn off the [brake lamp] light in my dash. My brake lights are working the way they should be, I'm not sure why the light always come on. Its an 88' Si 4WS, automatic transmission. The [brake lamp] light doesn't come on when the car first starts up, but when you tap the brake pedal to shift into drive, the [brake lamp] light comes on. Any solutions for resolving this issue? Thanks for your patience and help guys.
 
#53 ·
As you probably know, that indicator tells you when you have a bulb out. Are you sure that all 4 of your bulbs in the tail lights are good, as well as the high mounted brake light in the rear window? Did you recently add or remove a spoiler? It's common for this to happen when you add a spoiler to a car that previously didn't have one, and use the wires from the high mounted brake light to power the brake light in the spoiler.
 
#52 ·
introduction

Wanted to register and say hi. Appears to be much needed information here.

My name is chuck, and am a new owner of a 1989 prelude 2.0si I bought for a song from the estate of a deceased family member.

The only history I have is the car was parked running about 2-3 years ago. Anyhow, the body is in excellent condition with zero rust. I brought is down to Florida via transport, and got it running with a fuel pump change.

Ran very well, for about 50 miles. Smooth... until....

One morning, I went out to start it and no compression. My initial thought was the timing belt broke. To my surprise, upon removing covers, I discovered this was not the case, and that the belt appeared as if it was fairly new???. (and in correct time)

Anyhow, next step was to pull the valve cover, and discovered that 2 intake lifters (1 of the 2, on different cylinders) were laying loose in the head. It appears as if at least 2 valves are bent, maybe more, don;t know yet. The exact cause is still a mystery. My only guess is that it threw a timing belt in the past and was slapped back together and parked? I have no idea and its former owner is dead.

Well, move forward to today. I am in the process of removing the head. I am to the point of removing the intake manifold and am finding that it is a bear getting to all the bolts holding it to the head, mostly the ones under the manifold. I assume they are accessed underneath through the opening you;d change the oil filter through?

I read about others changing a head gasket in 3 hours? Well, this newbie took 3 hours to get the exhaust manifold off LOL.

At anyrate, I am planning a new timing belt, waterpump, tensioner, gaskets, and a head overhaul. Glad the car was cheap! If any of you 3 hour dudes or dudettes have a magic technique or secret tool to remove the bottom intake manifold bolts, I would appreciate some tips.

And last, love the car. Everything appears to work, with the exception of the speedo, cruise, and S3 code which I belive is all related.
My main transpotation is a silverado SS, the Honda is intended for days when I dont need a truck at work. ( I own a machine shop).

Regards,
Chuck.
 
#54 ·
Wanted to register and say hi. Appears to be much needed information here.

My name is chuck, and am a new owner of a 1989 prelude 2.0si I bought for a song from the estate of a deceased family member.

The only history I have is the car was parked running about 2-3 years ago. Anyhow, the body is in excellent condition with zero rust. I brought is down to Florida via transport, and got it running with a fuel pump change.

Ran very well, for about 50 miles. Smooth... until....

One morning, I went out to start it and no compression. My initial thought was the timing belt broke. To my surprise, upon removing covers, I discovered this was not the case, and that the belt appeared as if it was fairly new???. (and in correct time)

Anyhow, next step was to pull the valve cover, and discovered that 2 intake lifters (1 of the 2, on different cylinders) were laying loose in the head. It appears as if at least 2 valves are bent, maybe more, don;t know yet. The exact cause is still a mystery. My only guess is that it threw a timing belt in the past and was slapped back together and parked? I have no idea and its former owner is dead.

Well, move forward to today. I am in the process of removing the head. I am to the point of removing the intake manifold and am finding that it is a bear getting to all the bolts holding it to the head, mostly the ones under the manifold. I assume they are accessed underneath through the opening you;d change the oil filter through?

I read about others changing a head gasket in 3 hours? Well, this newbie took 3 hours to get the exhaust manifold off LOL.

At anyrate, I am planning a new timing belt, waterpump, tensioner, gaskets, and a head overhaul. Glad the car was cheap! If any of you 3 hour dudes or dudettes have a magic technique or secret tool to remove the bottom intake manifold bolts, I would appreciate some tips.

And last, love the car. Everything appears to work, with the exception of the speedo, cruise, and S3 code which I belive is all related.
My main transpotation is a silverado SS, the Honda is intended for days when I dont need a truck at work. ( I own a machine shop).

Regards,
Chuck.
Hi Chuck, welcome to the site. Congrats on picking up what sounds like a pretty clean 3rd gen.:mrgreen: Did you change the oil before driving it around? If If the engine was running as well as you said, the cause of your problem may have been the old oil that was in the engine. First thing I would have done is replace all the fluids and a do a tune up. Who knows how old the oil in that thing is.

It's kind of a tricky getting those nuts off the bottom of the intake manifold. First thing I usually do, assuming you've gotten the exhaust out of the way, is remove the oil filter to give you some room to work. You can also pull the support that's next to the downpipe if it's in your way. Next I pull the supports for the intake manifold. It's kind of a bitch the first time because part of the wire harness is anchored to one of the supports. Once those are out of the way there is a lot more room to work. One other thing I may do, that some may think is overkill, is to remove the driver side axle and intermediate shaft. It's a bit more work, but it really gives you a lot more room to work back there without the intermediate shaft. I've removed my axles so many times that I can have one out in about 10 minutes, so for me it's worth doing the extra work. Just keep in mind that if you remove the intermediate shaft you'll lose transmission fluid out of the axle hole.
 
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