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577K views 5K replies 1K participants last post by  Tsx4life 
#1 ·
are you a newbie?
Too lazy to search?
Do you have a question?
Has it likely been asked before?

well you are in luck. This thread is just for YOU. Here you can post your basic questions that have been asked and answered more times than i can count and not get flamed :eek:mg:!!!!!


Please DO NOT carry on conversation in this thread and either ANSWER A QUESTION OR DO NOT POST.

I'm hoping this thread will stop some of the useless threads and unneeded flaming.

When we get a question that gets posted alot, I will update this first post with common questions and answers to them.
 
#3,751 ·
i have an OG mugen front aero that has t been painted or used. cost was right around the range of $2000 by the time it was shipped, processed and delivered.

expect to pay more for one in the same condition and about halff that for a decent used one.

as for the mounting, i have found my mugen to mount up easily as well as fit perfect, the same cannot be said for the replica kits, they fit like shit.
 
#3,755 ·
both are fiberglass
 
#3,757 · (Edited)
I'm just wondering how much should I be offering for a complete swap from clothes seats to leather seats. If leather seats are in good shape does 50$ seems reasonable? My seat are in perfect shape btw. Just to add more details the guy totalled his car and I'm already taking his front Fender.
 
#3,758 ·
^ hey this guy who totaled his car, would he be wiling to sell the front clip with no engine? I am in need of a front clip in good shape with no damage to the frame rails.
 
#3,759 ·
his front right end is all messed up. anyway are you in Canada ?
 
#3,762 ·
The open hole under your radiator hose (to the left of the heat shield/header) is just an access hole for the transmission. There's usually a simple rubber plug there - no big deal.


The hose that's hanging in front of the heat shield/header is part of your A/C system, which it appears you do not have.



That sound is horrific. Almost like metal on metal contact.... You need to check the oil for metal shavings, do a compression test, and check the timing belt. It's very possible you broke a valve or spun a bearing. Which unfortunately would result in needing a rebuild or another motor....
 
#3,765 ·
I'd start by removing the accessory belts and see if the noise goes away.... those are bad noises lol, I doubt it would be running if all that noise was from the engine itself. Could be timing belt related though

How's the oil level?
 
#3,771 · (Edited)
The oil level is adequate. I haven't had a chance to fix anything yet.

I have another problem now...Car won't start. I started fine yesterday. The only thing I remember doing is trying to take my negative and positive bolts of by spraying wd 40 on the bolts cuz they were rusted and hard to take off. I also was installing the ECU back under the metal plate holder.

When I try to start it, it gets as far as the gauge lights coming on and it flickers sequentially with the alarm light and the door locks go crazy with it. When cranking, the lights go off on the gauge cluster (the gauge lights are dimmer than yesterday too). I think its a bad ground problem. I get no spark. It's a brand new battery. the negative bolt wont come off on battery cable because its badly rusted. The positive cable bolt is not as rusted and comes off easy. I'm thinking of replacing the whole negative wire due to the rust not getting appropriate ground. Could it be the starter?
 
#3,767 ·
There is guy local to me that has jdm trans with lsd. Is there an easy way to tell since it's not in the car? Also can the lsd be taken out and put in the accord trans that currently in my car, I would like to keep it since I will be going turbo soon.

This is the first honda and first fwd car I've owned and I know nothing about hondas.

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
 
#3,770 ·
Here's a question that might have already been asked/answered 1000x but I don't have enough time to really search the forums for the answer so I appologize ahead of time if I'm just reviving the horse that's already been beaten.

I just recently bought GC springs that only fit Koni yellows. If I buy Koni's off of a different car(Civic, Integra, ect) will it still fit on the lude or do I have to buy the specific ones?
 
#3,772 ·
Bought a 97' about two months ago, automatic with 107,000 miles on it.. I was driving my car a few weeks ago and was at a stop about to go on the newburgh bridge when it acted funny and my check engine light came on, i was in d4 and the d4 light began flashing. When i went to accelerate qucikly it would just rev out and not move. Got it to a parking lot in Newburgh, my dad came and checked it. As long as i dont accelerate too quickly its fine, if i keep steady pressure it fine but if i increase the pressure there is an issue. Also went out there today to start it up and it wont turn over, i figured maybe you know someone who is good with hondas, especially preludes. Hope its not the tranny, i believe that it is something associated but not it directly, any help would be much appreciated Also the d4 light is no longer on was just on momentarily. Went out to start it earlier and the engine does not turn over. My friend even came over with his car in cast the battery didnt have enough juice. It still did not turn over, any help is much appreciated, Namaste _/|\_ <3
 
#3,773 ·
Valves??

I have a JDM H22A it has JG springs retainers and valves,(came with the car)I am looking to replace them. I'm lost. I have done some research but don't have real world experiences. Can someone point me in the right direction as to Brian Cower Skunk2 Blox Valvetech Ferrea titanium retainers or stainless steal. Its my DD so it wont be raced or anything. I do run it hard, but also drive 160 miles a day. So reliability is my main concern.
 
#3,774 ·
noob

Hey guys, I'm definitely a noob to the prelude world. My brother and brother-in-law have talked me into getting a prelude and I know very little about them. I know to go ith a 5-speed, and not red..other than that, I dont know much. I'm young, and just looking for a nice car, that I can put some work into, but still have a nice car. I've found some for decent prices, but I wanna do some better research. Tips?

Thanks!
 
#3,776 ·
Hey i need some help. I had a CEL on for my emissions before I did a 5 speed swap, and a timing belt job. The CEL came back on two days after the swap so i went to O'reillys to make sure it was only the emissions code still. I cleared the CEL and then the diagnostics computer told me this.. "No DTC's are presently stored in the vehicle's computer". (when i did the swap, i had to move a resistor on the ecu to make sure no CEL's came on from not having the auto tranny so maybe that has something to do with it) Can someone please let me know what this means and what it may be affecting? Thanks in advance for any help
 
#3,777 ·
You need to drive the car for 50 miles or so prior to having it checked for emissions or the ecu will tell the computer that the car has recently been cleared of all codes.
 
#3,778 ·
Is it possible for rats and/or mice to make the engine bay their home? I don't drive much these days and I found some type of animal droppings on the top of my brake fluid reservoir.
I started the vehicle a few days ago and after about 5 minutes there was some type of light smoke coming from underneath the valve cover. What could this be? :(
Smelled kind of like burning but not really. I'll have to look into this.
 
#3,781 ·
Yes, very possible for them to make a nest ontop of the intake manifold/under the fusebox/next to the clutch master cylinder or any corner really.

Did you let the car run and keep an eye on the temperature as well as check for any leaks or odd smells? How was your oil level? Any unusual sounds? May have just been from sitting.

Is it fine if engine light goes away after a while. The engine code was the EGR. Just wondering if it some how got cleaned up or it just doesn't matter.
Since you're positive it was an EGR related code, I wouldn't really worry about it. Could have been something as simple as your gas cap being loose or a bit of carbon built up in the system that broke through. If the code is no longer there, do a quick scan of the ECU just to play it safe. I assume your check engine light still works when you first turn the car on?



my idle seams a bit lower after the 5 speed swap so im just curious what the idle at operating temperature should be. it is usually around 800 but sometimes when im at a stop for a little bit the rpm's will get all the way down to 5-600. is this normal, or too low?

My idle is around 5-600rpm on average, but that's due to having a lightened flywheel. 7-800rpm is normal for a stock 5 speed.

Was your swap done with factory spec items? It's usual for the RPM's to sometimes drop a little lower but go back up. As long as the car is running fine - I wouldn't put too much thought into it. I'm used to mine nearly stalling out due to my flywheel :?
 
#3,786 ·
Double true!

Wing, I put some oil in my vehicle and filled it up with a little bit of gas. Started her up and listened to her purr! Nothing seems to be wrong, maybe it was just getting near the really really low point of oil but everything seemed to be ok. I'm planning on doing a oil leak down test, compression test and fix any of the leaks (if any) once I get employed, which is not looking so good at the moment.
 
#3,789 · (Edited)
Hi, I'm New here, I just got a 98 prelude with an h23A with p13 head. I'm curious about the horsepower/torque it puts out and the redline because I see two different answers all over these forums. Some say it makes around 200hp and some say 165. I also see some people say it redlines at 7200 and some say it's 6500. Which is it? Because of this, I haven't taken it past 6000 just be because I don't know. It has headers and a free flowing exhaust and I think the stock intake. It's also a manual. Oh, and a black top. Thanks for some answers!
 
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