The Official Oil Leak Guide [Archive] - Honda Prelude Forum : Honda Prelude Forums

: The Official Oil Leak Guide


MommysLittleMonster
10-20-2010, 08:49 AM
This is going to be the mother of all "oil issues" responses, mainly because I've seen entirely too many of these in the 5th gen thread.


H22's like to consume oil, and it is a well-known fact in the H-series community. From leaky seals, to FRM cylinder walls wicking oil into the combustion chamber, to bad valve seals- you are going to have to do a LOT of work if you want to cut down on your oil consumption. I've been in the position that many new 'Luders are in (not making much money and trying to repair my car), so I thought I would compile a list of things to do- from easiest/cheapest, to hardest/most expensive. Here is a link to the Helms manual download to help you along the way.

(http://spoonhonda.com/downloads.htm)

Seal it: If your car leaks oil, do something about it- replace the seals on the motor. Staring at them intently and wishing they would go away will not solve your problem.

VTEC Solenoid Gasket: This is perhaps the biggest culprit for stock H22's. The VTEC Solenoid is located just behind your distributor, with the small cylinder sticking out of the top of it. It will require you to remove a few 10mm bolts. Oil will drain out of it, so get ready with some rags or a catch can.

HOW YOU CAN TELL: There will be oil/black gunk on the top of your transmission casing, and along the passenger side of the block.
COST: Gaskets are usually ~$20.. from your local dealer.



Part #15825-P13-005

Shown as #13 & #15 on the diagram:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s3001_e10.png






Distributor O-Ring: Like that creepy old guy that hangs out around schools, this little number is well-hidden. Often times, what happens is the O-ring will dry out after sitting for a while, crack, and then leak oil. To get to the seal, you need to remove the distributor from the cylinder head. Remove the three 8mm bolts from the distributor cap, remove the rotor by taking the setscrew out of the shaft (you may need to click the motor over until you can see this set screw), and unbolt the distributor from the shaft.

HOW YOU CAN TELL: There will be oil leaking on the passenger side of the block, typically black gunk will be pooled on top of your transmission.
COST: Typically ~$2.
Part #30110-PA1-732

Shown as #6 in the diagram:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s3001_e0510.png


Valve Cover Gaskets: Not quite as likely as the VTEC solenoid gasket, valve covers do in fact leak. This is the giant cover over the top of your engine, and is quite easy to remove. There are a few 10mm crown nuts you'll have to remove, then lift off of the top of the cylinder head. You can use a wide flat-blade screwdriver to help start pry it off. It's also advised to put a little high-temp silicone (Hondabond) in the sharp corners of the valve cover gasket, as they don't like to seal very well by itself. It's also a good idea to replace the spark plug well seals, too- they're the funny little guys that look like small rubber donuts. (NOTE- if you are mechanically inclined and your engine has many miles on it, you can also do a Valve Adjustment while you have the cover off. Link to writeup on HondaTech (http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=618786))

HOW YOU CAN TELL: There will be oil/black gunk around the base of the valve cover, usually on the back or sides of the block.
COST: Valve cover gaskets are usually ~$15, the small rubber seals for the sparkplug wells are ~$3 each.
Part #12341-P13-000 (cover gasket)
......#12342-PT2-000 (rubber seals for s.p.w.)

Shown as #3 & #4 on the diagram.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s3001_e09.png


Oil Cooler O-Ring: This guy is in a different area code in comparison to the last few seals mentioned, but is still a pain in the ass. This seal goes between the oil cooler and the block on an H22, and sometimes goes bad from heat cycles or age and cracks. This will cause you to dump all of that nice 10w-30 oil that you just changed all over your driveway, your exhaust, and everything south of the boarder. It will require that you use a 30mm deep-well socket to remove the oil cooler, and a torque wrench to torque it down to 54lbs-ft.

HOW YOU CAN TELL: Your mom will be screaming at you for dumping your oil on her driveway, and oil will be leaking from behind the oil filter and the block. Typically can be seen dripping into your axles and flex pipe.
COST: This little guy will run you about $4.
Part #91316-PE7-730
WRITEUP LINK: http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=324248 (props to xxfallacyxx)

Shown as #32 in the diagram:

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s3001_e13.png


Cam Cap Seals: A close relative to the VTEC solenoid gasket & valve cover gasket, this little black plug is a pain in your ass in more ways than you can count. There are multiple O-ring replacements for these little guys (BLOX, Golden Eagle, Skunk2, ect), personally I think the billet seals with O-rings is a better idea. However, following the OEM ideology of this thread, you can buy OEM replacements. It's a wise idea to use Hondabond sealing agent (although any high-temp sealer will work). You need to remove the valve cover, then remove the cam cap on top of it. Once the cam cap is off, you can replace the leaky bastard with a new one. BE SURE TO TORQUE THE CAP TO 7lbs-ft USING A TORQUE WRENCH!

HOW YOU CAN TELL: There will be black gunk/oil on the passenger side of the block, behind/next to the VTEC solenoid
COST: ~$7 from your dealership, ~$20 for an aftermarket replacement
Part #12513-P30-000

Shown as #8 in the diagram:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s3001_e10.png



________________________________________






All Other Major Seals: Most other seals beyond this point require major disassembly on your motor. If you are going this far, it is advised to do a full timing belt service while you have it apart. So, ask your mom if you can borrow the minivan for the weekend, or fire up your winter beater- because this is gonna get bumpy. Link to writeup for timing belt job/disassembly for jobs from here on out (http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288086). Courtesy of JLUDE.

Cam Shaft Seals: UNLIKE cam cap seals, these hard plastic pipsqueaks are located under the valve cover, behind the cam gears, on the cylinder head. This will require that you remove the cam gears- meaning you need to remove the timing belt. Once the cam gears are removed, you can remove the seals with a small, flat-blade screwdriver and a little work. You can insert the new seals by sliding them over the cam shafts, and pushing them gently on with the cam gears. (NOTE- MAKE SURE THERE IS GREASE ON THE INSIDE OF THE SEAL. All OEM Honda seals come with grease pre-loaded in the seal, to prevent a dry start and premature wear of the seal)

HOW YOU CAN TELL: There will be oil leaking down the front of the block, coming from the seals behind the cam gears.
COST: Typically ~$7 each from your Honda Dealership.
Part #91213-PR3-004

Shown as #38 on the diagram:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s3001_e11.png


Balance Shaft Seal: Like the cam seals, you will need to remove your timing belt and front engine cover to do these. These typically don't leak as much, but it is a good idea to get fresh seals while you are this far in. To remove these guys, you need to break the bolt loose on the end of the balance shaft (good idea to leave the belt on the shaft wheel before doing this) and remove the retainer. Once they are out of the way, it's the same as doing the cam shaft seals.

HOW YOU CAN TELL: Oil will be leaking from the seal, typically black and dirty underneath seal.
COST: About $5.
Part #91233-PT0-003





Front/Rear Main Seals: The biggest bastards of them all, the front and rear main seals. The front main seal is located behind the crank pulley, while the rear main seal is buried behind the flywheel on the back of the motor. If you're going this far, you might as well plan on investing in a new clutch too!

HOW YOU CAN TELL: Oil will be leaking between the transmission case and the engine block, or out of the bottom of the timing cover and onto the oil pan
COST: $15 for the rear, $15 for the front.
Part #91214-PAA-A01 (rear)
......#91214-PLE-003 (front)

Shown as #45 in the diagram:


http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s3001_e14.png





__________________________________________________ ____________

This concludes the "Seals" section. Any rep will be greatly appreciated, I will write more concerning other forms of oil consumption and repairs a little later. :emthup:

xxfallacyxx
10-20-2010, 09:00 AM
This thread = instant rep :D Good work.

Kane666
10-20-2010, 09:19 AM
repped. looks all laid out pretty for being in that small window lol i would put though that an aftermarket cam cap while more expensive is 100% the better way to go if that's your problem even though your doing an oem thing. rosko makes em.

RomPirate
10-20-2010, 11:02 AM
I don't rep much....

But when I do, I rep worthy threads.

ps. Wont let me rep you again lol

my97bb6
10-20-2010, 11:22 AM
despite a thread like this, noobs are going to come in ask the same retarded questions about their 22 consuming too much oil

just sayin

xxfallacyxx
10-20-2010, 11:33 AM
Yep, but this should be stickied to help alleviate that.

Josh97_BB6
10-20-2010, 11:40 AM
I <3 this thread, immediately helped me find my leaks within 5 minutes, I don't leak unless im driving so I knew it wasn't too serious. So, I read the first thing on this page, and Just by looks my V-TEC solenoid needs to be replaced for sure; along with my cam cap seals. VERY good write-up! Any noob like me who can read and apply the diagrams can even use this. THANKS!!

red98
10-20-2010, 11:42 AM
This thread = instant rep :D Good work.

x2 + needs to be stickied

MommysLittleMonster
10-20-2010, 12:04 PM
I <3 this thread, immediately helped me find my leaks within 5 minutes, I don't leak unless im driving so I knew it wasn't too serious. So, I read the first thing on this page, and Just by looks my V-TEC solenoid needs to be replaced for sure; along with my cam cap seals. VERY good write-up! Any noob like me who can read and apply the diagrams can even use this. THANKS!!
Exactly why I made this thread, very glad to hear it helped. :emthup: Rep is always appreciated! :smilejap:

BlkLUDE5G
10-20-2010, 12:05 PM
i wish it would let me rep you bro - stcky this one mods

catacon
10-20-2010, 12:19 PM
Nice thread. I don't leak oil, but I am sure it will happen eventually and this thread will come in handy.

Thanks! +rep

Sd_h22a
10-20-2010, 12:47 PM
Very nice thread. This will be useful. Sticky this ish!

zuptidi
10-20-2010, 01:27 PM
You should also add up the dizzy gasket,
Very common

MommysLittleMonster
10-20-2010, 01:43 PM
You should also add up the dizzy gasket,
Very common
Aaaaand added. :emthup:

Fail. I had it typed out, then must not have copied it over from word. :lol: Thanks!

klager01
10-20-2010, 04:20 PM
This couldnt have come soon enough. I'm taking on the rear main seal next week and I'm planning on doing a write up because I couldnt find one between here and Prelude Online. Most of rest of these are on my list too, just for the sake of doing them. If the oil loss doesn't stop after that I dont know what I'm going to do. No money for a build right now lol. This should be stickyed/ in the resource thread too. I'd rep you if I could.

96azureVTEC
10-20-2010, 04:51 PM
great post. figured out where i was leaking oil. repped

zuptidi
10-20-2010, 05:09 PM
just today i bought the vtec solenoid gasket cause it's leaking

Christian
10-20-2010, 05:16 PM
awesome write up :) rep'd

aznxviet
10-20-2010, 06:52 PM
Rep'd

shaylude01
10-20-2010, 09:10 PM
Wow amazing post. Repped. Sticky this shit ASAP!

Darren's 01 SH
10-20-2010, 09:24 PM
Good stuff. I don't know how many more of these "official" threads I can sticky, the sticky list is getting way too long,lol.

Midori Si
10-20-2010, 09:26 PM
Awesome! I've had to replace the oil cooler seal and man, yea that is a beyotch! And everyone driving behind you stops you to let you know your car is smoking...

MommysLittleMonster
10-20-2010, 11:07 PM
I haz a sticky! :D Thanks for adjusting the title and stickying the thread Darren, thank you guys for the rep! Glad to see it helped solve some confusion. :)

hondastudent
10-20-2010, 11:27 PM
nice almost 2000000 miles

aznjap808
10-21-2010, 06:40 AM
Repped. Awesome thread bro!

thrashmaniac
10-21-2010, 03:55 PM
AWESOME writeup i read bc my motor is consuming oil, maybe a quart every 200 miles in what seems to be out of nowhere. i recently just changed my plugs and wires. my dad noticed that my plug wires, the part directly above the plugs themselves that goes down into the valve cover, had oil on them. He said that this was definitely not normal. what do you guys think?

xxfallacyxx
10-21-2010, 04:12 PM
I think your dad is right!

Could be the little spark plug shaft seals, requires removal of the valve cover to replace.

jamsandwich
10-22-2010, 12:02 PM
getting it done this afternoon/evening after work


http://i53.tinypic.com/25j81oz.jpg


Edit: When i took out the 3 bolts for the VTEC Solenoid, it was stuck in position on the side of the engine head. Had to give it a whack with a small rubber mallet before i could get it off. And it was DEF leaking. The old grommet was completely flat. Underneath the solenoid on the transmission was a whole mess of burned black oil.

migoreng
10-27-2010, 05:48 AM
All the common leaks have been fixed but I still have one left.

My sump plug was stripped and I really don't know for how long. I used to leak from the cam/balance seals etc and never realised the sump was also stripped. My oil pan used to be covered in a film of oil and it was coming from the timing belt cover...Now my oil pan is completely clean except for drops from the sump plug every night. That's probably the worst place for a leak and with oil pressure while driving I imagine quite a bit would leak out.

A while ago a mechanic helicoiled my sump but it still leaked. Any reason why? I was told some tape can be used on the thread to seal it properly or it might be the crush washer is not sealing properly...I'll have to wait for my next oil change in a month or so.

Any idea? I hope I won't need a new oil pan.

klager01
10-29-2010, 07:12 PM
You left out the oil pan gasket. I went in thinking I was loosing a quart a week from the rear main and found this:

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a163/videogmike/PRE_2010-10-29-195500.jpg

Between the oil pan gasket and the vtec solenoid, oil cooler, cam plug and distributor I SHOULD be good now... I hope.

migoreng
10-30-2010, 03:45 AM
^ mmm nasty..I'll try to check out that little rubber seal on the oil pan next time.

My oil pan is basically clean except at the sump plug. It's obvious oil is seeping out from there and I get drops on the floor everynight.
:S

Anyway our pans don't use gaskets. Isn't it sealed by Hondabond or something?

klager01
10-30-2010, 06:11 AM
^ mmm nasty..I'll try to check out that little rubber seal on the oil pan next time.

My oil pan is basically clean except at the sump plug. It's obvious oil is seeping out from there and I get drops on the floor everynight.
:S

Anyway our pans don't use gaskets. Isn't it sealed by Hondabond or something?

It is mostly ultra flange but right on the edge (at the end where all the oils coming from) is a little curved 3 inch gasket that sits underneath the rear main. I'll edit this with a part number later.

GrnLude99
10-30-2010, 05:05 PM
repped for a good write-up

but just to make sure before i get under there, I have a major leak and it looks as its coming down to the oil pan. Its most likely my front main seal right?

MommysLittleMonster
10-30-2010, 05:20 PM
repped for a good write-up

but just to make sure before i get under there, I have a major leak and it looks as its coming down to the oil pan. Its most likely my front main seal right?
It's hard to say for certain. Your best bet is to take the timing covers off and take a peek- I know the cam seals and balance shaft seals like to throw a LOT of oil around too.

klager01
10-30-2010, 05:21 PM
repped for a good write-up

but just to make sure before i get under there, I have a major leak and it looks as its coming down to the oil pan. Its most likely my front main seal right?

More likely oil pan gasket or rear main...see above.
It depends though... which side of the oil pan??

GrnLude99
10-30-2010, 08:48 PM
More likely oil pan gasket or rear main...see above.
It depends though... which side of the oil pan??
its like all over its hard to tell.. but i gotta get a good look at it after i wash it down with some degreaser or something

klager01
10-31-2010, 07:28 AM
Most likely oil pan gasket or rear main then. If its coming from the timing side you better hurry up and get in there and have a look, oil on your timing belt will cause it to fail prematurely.

euddys
11-06-2010, 06:57 PM
ok this is my issue, i looked under the car and i noticed oil between the headers and the oil filter all the way across the motor, i do have white smoke coming out of my muffler, i also have skirts of oil on the rear frame by the firewall, i this a the symptom of a blown head gasket?

MommysLittleMonster
11-07-2010, 05:35 PM
Hard to say. Take some pictures of what you see, it's hard to understand what you mean. Oil on the back of your block below the oil filter could mean a lot of things.


Do a compression check and see what the numbers say. If you have two that are unusually low, you may have a blown head gasket. Another easy way to tell is to look at your oil or coolant- if your oil comes out a cream color or milky, you have coolant mixing with your oil, usually meaning a blown head gasket.

Coop760
11-08-2010, 12:47 PM
I have oil leaking while the car is running? any ideas on what it might be??

Right underneath the oil filter....

biglegs
11-08-2010, 01:36 PM
oil cooler o ring.

mrfuzzynuggets
11-08-2010, 01:55 PM
^ now thats a fun one!

biglegs
11-08-2010, 02:00 PM
took me all of 15 minutes, not hard at all. just kinda weird angle.

deludedbbsik
11-08-2010, 02:04 PM
Perfect. Now this is why I love you. I'll get you a cookie, and rep. haha

Coop760
11-08-2010, 02:21 PM
oil cooler o ring.

Thanks I guess it could be that... It just started leaking 3 days ago, i change the oil about a month ago. If you are correct I'll give u some rep.

There any pivs on here on what I might be looking at??

biglegs
11-08-2010, 02:36 PM
yep and a how to...
http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=324248

Coop760
11-09-2010, 01:06 AM
took me all of 15 minutes, not hard at all. just kinda weird angle.

Could not get it, skunk2 manifold takes alot of space. Im going to have to rethink it.

xxfallacyxx
11-09-2010, 08:56 AM
There any pics on here on what I might be looking at??

I wouldn't have told you to look at this thread if there weren't!

klager01
11-09-2010, 12:04 PM
took me all of 15 minutes, not hard at all. just kinda weird angle.
I think you need to add to the DIY how you did it in 15 min on an SH. It took me 15 minutes too... after I took out the ATTS.
Fal- I know I said I'd add to that thread...I have pictures coming soon.

xxfallacyxx
11-09-2010, 12:07 PM
^ Win and thank you! ^

biglegs
11-09-2010, 12:09 PM
do you have an sh? if not go at it from the bottom, the atts unit on the sh is in the way, but on the base, you can get to it. you just gotta manipulate your hands down to the oil filter, really if you can get your oil filter off, you can get the cooler off.

biglegs
11-09-2010, 12:11 PM
I think you need to add to the DIY how you did it in 15 min on an SH. It took me 15 minutes too... after I took out the ATTS.
Fal- I know I said I'd add to that thread...I have pictures coming soon.


whaaaaaaat? why did you take the atts unit off? lmao, no need to go that far to get to the oil cooler. just like i said to coop, if you can get your oil filter off, you can get the cooler off. just do exactly like the diy says, its a tight fit, but its not hard. really, impact guns help too.

xxfallacyxx
11-09-2010, 12:24 PM
It's only 54lbs of torque too, a half inch drive will be able to remove that no problem. On the SH it should be gone after from the top just like changing the oil filter.

biglegs
11-09-2010, 12:25 PM
yup, what he said^

Coop760
11-09-2010, 12:49 PM
whaaaaaaat? why did you take the atts unit off? lmao, no need to go that far to get to the oil cooler. just like i said to coop, if you can get your oil filter off, you can get the cooler off. just do exactly like the diy says, its a tight fit, but its not hard. really, impact guns help too.

I have an Sh, and a skunk2 mani, hand bearly fits, I can take the oil filter off. But i cant get the tool in there to take the top off the oil cooler. If i go from the bottom the i would have to take the axle out and maybe the atts unit! what a bitch!!! Im looking into a relocation kit by greddy at the moment.

biglegs
11-09-2010, 01:28 PM
that wont move your cooler though, just the filter. you gotta get the cooler off to get to the o-ring.i used an impact, so you should be able to get to it with a 1/2" drive 3" extension. a universal joint might help if the angle is difficult. but honestly, even with the skunk2 mani, you should have no problems getting it off. its tight, and you cant really swing the oil cooler too far, and getting the oring on and keeping it inplace is really the most difficult part.

Coop760
11-09-2010, 01:33 PM
that wont move your cooler though, just the filter. you gotta get the cooler off to get to the o-ring.i used an impact, so you should be able to get to it with a 1/2" drive 3" extension. a universal joint might help if the angle is difficult. but honestly, even with the skunk2 mani, you should have no problems getting it off. its tight, and you cant really swing the oil cooler too far, and getting the oring on and keeping it inplace is really the most difficult part.

Ur right about the location of the cooler. So ill give it another shot today. but i might have to go from underneath.

klager01
11-09-2010, 07:33 PM
This should really be in the oil cooler thread but-
I had the ATTS out already because I was doing a bunch of other stuff. No matter if I went at it from the top or bottom and used a shallow or deep socket I could not for the life of me get a wrench on there until the ATTS was out.

biglegs
11-09-2010, 08:16 PM
i have an sh as well, i got mine out with no problems. dunno why you guys are even thinking about removing the atts unit or axles. you are going waaaaaaaay out of your way just to get to the cooler. i followed fals write up , step by step. only difference is i used an impact gun. IF YOU CAN GET YOUR FILTER OFF, YOU CAN GET THE COOLER OFF. its a bitch, but its the way i did it. it might not have been 15 minutes, but it definitelywas under an hours worth of work.

Coop760
11-10-2010, 10:14 AM
I had it done, My friend has a shop kpowered. But In order to get the cooler ring out he had to do it from under neath, pull the axle off too. No more oil Leaking!

biglegs
11-10-2010, 03:52 PM
still dunno why he had to pull an axle, but at least you got it done! told you it was the cooler, those things are a bitch!!! rep?

addicted2fresh89
11-14-2010, 10:31 AM
this is wat i needed.. now only if it got a lil warmer in PA i can get this shit done. THX MommysLittleHelper

gaborn73
11-14-2010, 07:25 PM
repped. Awesome thread!

Coop760
11-14-2010, 11:06 PM
still dunno why he had to pull an axle, but at least you got it done! told you it was the cooler, those things are a bitch!!! rep?

My strut bar was in the way, and the manifold. But he got it done... I'll give rep.

GrnLude99
12-31-2010, 03:26 PM
ok so im getting my clutch done soon. Should I trust this ebay rear main seal, or should i drive up ~50 miles to the closest honda dealership and get it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fel-Pro-BS40430-Rear-Main-Bearing-Seal-Set-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZModelQ3aPreludeQQhashZitem 1e606fa321QQitemZ130466947873QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fT ruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

MommysLittleMonster
01-10-2011, 01:36 PM
ok so im getting my clutch done soon. Should I trust this ebay rear main seal, or should i drive up ~50 miles to the closest honda dealership and get it?

http://rover.ebay.com/ar/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpt=1267561174&adtype=1&size=1x1&type=3&campid=5336714513&toolid=10001 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fel-Pro-BS40430-Rear-Main-Bearing-Seal-Set-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZModelQ3aPreludeQQhashZitem 1e606fa321QQitemZ130466947873QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fT ruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campid=5336714513&toolid=10001&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2FFel-Pro-BS40430-Rear-Main-Bearing-Seal-Set-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZModelQ3aPreludeQQhashZitem 1e606fa321QQitemZ130466947873QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fT ruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
I would get an OEM honda part. Fel-Pro is okay, but hard to beat OEM. You can order it from Majestic Honda, they'll ship it to your door.

GrnLude99
01-10-2011, 02:19 PM
I would get an OEM honda part. Fel-Pro is okay, but hard to beat OEM. You can order it from Majestic Honda, they'll ship it to your door.
Well thanks bro, i already bought from the dealership.. cost me $23 including taxes. I was cheaper at majestic but the shipping was killer. They were going to charge me $28 and on top of that I'll have to wait a few days.

ThatWhiteSH
03-01-2011, 05:13 PM
this helped alot!!

Coop760
03-01-2011, 05:24 PM
Allways go Oem on seals, belts plugs.....

MommysLittleMonster
03-01-2011, 10:13 PM
this helped alot!!

:emthup: That's why I do these writeups. Thanks for the rep!

boymeetsfence
04-20-2011, 06:55 PM
Bringing this back a little... I have an SH and I got my Oil cooler o-ring replaced, OEM part used, but I'm still leaking quite a bit, maybe even more. Is there something else I might be overlooking?

scndchnce
05-20-2011, 12:17 PM
I have a pretty bad oil leak but I'm not sure how to go about fixing it. I'm leaking a couple courts every couple weeks so it's starting to be a pain in my ass to keep up with it. I went to go remove my valve cover before the winter, and all but 2 of my bolts came out. The one in the middle, and the front drivers side bolt. They just kept spinning, and spinning, no matter if I was trying to tighten or loosen them. I figured these were probably my culprits and I was leaking from my valve cover probably from those spots. So.... how would you guys go about fixing this? Do you think my valve cover studs are stripped? Or maybe the block itself is stripped and I need a helicoil or timesert?

MommysLittleMonster
05-21-2011, 12:09 PM
Bringing this back a little... I have an SH and I got my Oil cooler o-ring replaced, OEM part used, but I'm still leaking quite a bit, maybe even more. Is there something else I might be overlooking?
Read through the thread man, there's a lot of places for oil to leak on H22's. Just gotta look around and find them!

I have a pretty bad oil leak but I'm not sure how to go about fixing it. I'm leaking a couple courts every couple weeks so it's starting to be a pain in my ass to keep up with it. I went to go remove my valve cover before the winter, and all but 2 of my bolts came out. The one in the middle, and the front drivers side bolt. They just kept spinning, and spinning, no matter if I was trying to tighten or loosen them. I figured these were probably my culprits and I was leaking from my valve cover probably from those spots. So.... how would you guys go about fixing this? Do you think my valve cover studs are stripped? Or maybe the block itself is stripped and I need a helicoil or timesert?
That's hard to say for sure, sounds like the standoffs might be stripped or something similar. Try to find a way to take the valve cover completely off and check them out.

Take all of the nuts off of the outside of the valvecover first, then do the 3-4 on the inside of the cover. Odds are someone overtightened them at one point, and stripped where they are held in the head. If that is the case, you may have to helicoil the spots where they were stripped, or find a way to clean up the threads with a tap.

F4tal
06-09-2011, 05:34 PM
Awesome thread! Def going to help me stop my leaky H22

mikeschmeee
06-13-2011, 12:41 AM
This thread is indeed awesome but I have a question.... I recently changed my VTEC solenoid gasket, about 1000miles ago if not way less but it still leaks a bit when I put my finger under the bottom bolt to check. Not much of a leak but there definitely is a noticeble amount.

Now my question is did anyone ever encounter this issue and/or use HondaBond around the VTEC solenoid gasket? Perhaps use a different type of sealant? I hate leaks and I want this sealed up right... Yes I made sure the bolts are screwed in tight.

Help

Thanks
Mike

STLude
08-07-2011, 10:52 PM
damn. wish i had this thread when i first noticed the oil leak! luckily it was just the o-ring on the distributor so it was a real easy fix once i noticed it.

scndchnce
08-08-2011, 01:05 PM
just fixed my leak too. turns out my valve cover nuts went on crooked and got stripped so they just spun and spun and the valve cover didnt tighten down enough. so i got some PWJDM valve cover washers in black and allen head bolts that came with them. looks dope and works great. be careful with those valve cover nuts folks

tuu
09-17-2011, 01:54 PM
for the distributor O-ring (Part #30110-PA1-732), the website says its $15 bucks, not $2. where did you get yours? its hard to believe the ring costs that much for such a simple design.

@ http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/srchrslts.jsp?search=sku&srchwords=30110-PA1-732

hapasnyper
09-19-2011, 01:49 AM
^uhmm it says $1.35

tuu
09-19-2011, 03:06 PM
when you cart it for final purchase , it says 15 bucks. does anyone know any other honda part dealer sites

Wing8806
09-19-2011, 11:07 PM
when you cart it for final purchase , it says 15 bucks. does anyone know any other honda part dealer sites


Just go to your local dealership and get it.

Shiloh51933
10-26-2011, 02:07 PM
when you cart it for final purchase , it says 15 bucks. does anyone know any other honda part dealer sites

I know this was about a month ago but I just ordered a bunch of stuff from Majestic and i got the o-ring referenced for a 1.35. Did you ever get the o-ring? Cause when i checked out it stayed at 1.35 on my receipt. You probably got it by now but for future reference for anybody else it's 1.35. Actually most of the stuff I ordered threw Majestic was set at good to decent prices.

Kpro22
11-16-2011, 07:50 PM
nice guide

nickflanders
01-17-2012, 07:57 AM
Very heplful! Thanks for listing part numbers.

scndchnce
01-25-2012, 02:15 PM
just replaced my oil cooler o ring. thanks for the guidance and specs

SuperNova153
01-26-2012, 05:08 PM
This helped me so much, I got this done in a matter of hours thanks to this post!

Thanks again

MommysLittleMonster
01-27-2012, 02:58 PM
Very heplful! Thanks for listing part numbers.just replaced my oil cooler o ring. thanks for the guidance and specsThis helped me so much, I got this done in a matter of hours thanks to this post!

Thanks again
Glad this helped guys! Rep is always appreciated. :)

bb6ryder
02-08-2012, 04:56 PM
good shit bro

Jmd471
03-07-2012, 09:51 AM
Great writeup! I'm working my way through these hoping to find where the root cause is. Have already done dist o ring and vtec solenoid gasket, both seemed on. This weekend will be oil cooler, pressure switch, cam seal and vc gasket. I can't quite place it but it seems like its a higher up leak coming down the back passenger side of the block, but can't observe it actually coming out anywhere while it's running.

dandamanimal
04-23-2012, 03:00 PM
Great writeup! I'm working my way through these hoping to find where the root cause is. Have already done dist o ring and vtec solenoid gasket, both seemed on. This weekend will be oil cooler, pressure switch, cam seal and vc gasket. I can't quite place it but it seems like its a higher up leak coming down the back passenger side of the block, but can't observe it actually coming out anywhere while it's running.

This sounds just like what I have run into. Did you ever find a definite solution to the leak?

Shiloh51933
04-26-2012, 08:08 PM
http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz180/Russell_Maass/NissanHondaparts005.jpg
(http://s825.photobucket.com/albums/zz180/Russell_Maass/?action=view&current=NissanHondaparts005.jpg)

I just got the rest of the seals for my Lude, I've already done the oil cooler o-ring, speedo gear o-rings, oil pressure switch seal/hardware, distributor o-ring/dizzy cap seal, new oil plug/crush washer, miscellaneous hardware and some tranny hardline banjo bolt crush washers. Tomorrow I'm cleaning out my EGR system and taking the VC off to repaint. I'm planning to install these seals/hardware while I'm at it, I like to replace any nuts and bolts that look like they need replacing.






(http://s825.photobucket.com/albums/zz180/Russell_Maass/?action=view&current=NissanHondaparts005.jpg)



(http://s825.photobucket.com/albums/zz180/Russell_Maass/?action=view&current=NissanHondaparts005.jpg)

Rckev1
05-22-2012, 09:08 PM
I changed my o-ring tonight after reading the thread and it went great! Thank you. However, now i think my timing may be off as when i hit the throttle there is a slight "cough" before reving up. Only two of the three holes are slotted in the distributor to rotate to adjust timing. How do i fix this issue?

Please help

bb6ftw
05-28-2012, 02:24 AM
love this guide. helped me with all my oil problems

zacx
06-09-2012, 12:42 AM
Repped! Great post!

So far I've replaced

VTEC Solenoid Gasket
Dizzy O-ring
Valve Cover Gaskets
Oil Cooler O-ring (this was annoying to replace on a SH)
Cam Cap Seal

Major service was done about 17k kms ago (engine was replaced)- Timing belt, water pump etc, including rear main seal

BUT I still have a minor (but very annoying) oil leak. Here's a pic from the engine bay
http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy47/ramzacx/IMG_2195a.jpg

Does anyone have any idea where it's leaking from?

Also from what I can see, there's a bit of oil on top of the gearbox but the area underneath the cam cap seal, and vtec solenoid is pretty clean.

The area directly underneath the dizzy is fine - where the dizzy connects to the block, but further down is not
http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy47/ramzacx/IMG_2198a.jpg

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated!:)

MommysLittleMonster
06-11-2012, 02:27 PM
Looks like your valve cover gasket is leaking down the front of the head, you can clean it off with some carb cleaner and double-check before replacing it again. Did you add some silicone to the corners of the gasket before torquing it to spec?

mikeschmeee
06-11-2012, 03:08 PM
Yea! This thread rocks! and MommysLittleMonster is an awesome dude!
I have a tiny oil leak at the bottom of the engine. Where the engine meets the transmission. I wipe the area clean everytime I do an oil change but it keeps coming back. Not sure where its coming from, probably somewhere else and slowly makes its way down to the very bottom but its annoying everytime I look at it. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the oil pan silicone stuff. I'd like to use a large amount of HondaBond on that area hah. If I remove the oil pan though, I'd like to install a JUN baffled oil pan instead of the OEM pan.
I'll try to take some pics of it if I can jack the car up high enough or if a mechanic is generous enough to let me use their hoist.

00-SH
07-07-2012, 05:14 PM
I gotta say this is one of the best write-ups I've ever seen. I used this today to change the seals in my engine. I have an SH, and the oil pressure switch was leaking. This little sucker is located underneath the intake, above the ATTS unit, and far enough past the oil filter housing as to make it impossible to reach without taking off the ATTS. Unfortunately, I couldn't take off the ATTS because the driver's side axle refused to come out, and it blocks one of the bolts that holds the ATTS to the block, so I pulled the engine. Bit drastic, but effective. And it made it very easy to change the seals. Piece of advice: When taking off the crank gear, there is a small retainer under it with two 10mm bolts holding it to the block. I didn't see this and managed to snap the edge off the gear backing plate. Serious crapola. But all that to say that I wouldn't have been able to do this without MommysLittleMonster and his amazing leak guide. Thank you!

MommysLittleMonster
07-10-2012, 08:59 AM
Glad it helped you guys out! :)

ZekeComa
08-09-2012, 07:37 PM
I've seen videos on the Cam Cap Seal (not Prelude specific), but some of them are able to pop them off without taking off the valve cover, etc. Is it possible on the H22A?

00-SH
08-10-2012, 06:25 AM
From my experience, no. You have to take the valve cover off to be able to access the bolts that hold down the cam cap cover. You can't pull the seal out the side of the engine because of the way it's shaped. There's a lip on the back that catches on the inside. Hope this helps.

IridiumCore
08-10-2012, 08:10 PM
From my experience, no. You have to take the valve cover off to be able to access the bolts that hold down the cam cap cover. You can't pull the seal out the side of the engine because of the way it's shaped. There's a lip on the back that catches on the inside. Hope this helps.

Where exactly is this cap seal located. I've replaced my vtec solenoid gasket twice. The first time I stared at it littlemonster said not to cuz it won't help. This time I used a high temp oil resistant sealant so I'm hoping it goes away. but in the description for the cam cap seal it looks like the leak evidence would be in the same place for cap seal as it would be for the vtec solenoid so I just want to make sure I'm replacing the right thing cuz I have add about a quart of oil a week.

00-SH
08-11-2012, 10:03 AM
The cam cap seal isn't hard to change. If you look at MommysLittleMonster's original post, in the first diagram, it's #8 (top right of the diagram). It's on the end of the camshaft that is closest to the rear of the engine and on the passenger side of the car. It's behind the vtec solenoid. To change it, you have to take off the valve cover, remove the cam cover plate (about 10 bolts hold it on), then undo the bolts that hold the end cap cover on. You may need to hit the cap with a rubber mallet to knock it loose. Once it's off, pull out the seal, clean all surfaces where a gasket will be touching so that there's no sealant or gasket bits left, then put in the new seal and reverse above procedure. Ensure you torque the valve cover bolts in the correct sequence. If you can't find a guide, remember to start at the center and work your way out in an even distribution.

IridiumCore
08-11-2012, 10:33 PM
The cam cap seal isn't hard to change. If you look at MommysLittleMonster's original post, in the first diagram, it's #8 (top right of the diagram). It's on the end of the camshaft that is closest to the rear of the engine and on the passenger side of the car. It's behind the vtec solenoid. To change it, you have to take off the valve cover, remove the cam cover plate (about 10 bolts hold it on), then undo the bolts that hold the end cap cover on. You may need to hit the cap with a rubber mallet to knock it loose. Once it's off, pull out the seal, clean all surfaces where a gasket will be touching so that there's no sealant or gasket bits left, then put in the new seal and reverse above procedure. Ensure you torque the valve cover bolts in the correct sequence. If you can't find a guide, remember to start at the center and work your way out in an even distribution.

Thanks Man.

ZekeComa
08-22-2012, 07:16 PM
The Honda mechanic that did my timing belt said I can just put Hondabond on the cam cap seal and put it back in and not need a new cam cap seal. Any truth to that?

00-SH
08-22-2012, 07:24 PM
It depends on the condition of the seal. If it's still in good shape then yes, some hondabond should do the trick. But a new one is about $11. Better to not take a chance.

ZekeComa
08-23-2012, 12:29 AM
I wish there was a way to take out the cam cap without having to take the VC and the valley off :(

00-SH
08-23-2012, 06:21 AM
If you could take it straight out the pressure inside the VC could potentially blow it out. That would suck ganky smelly dead rotten walrus balls.

schmitty
08-23-2012, 06:47 AM
I wish there was a way to take out the cam cap without having to take the VC and the valley off :(

It's not as bad as it seems. Just follow the proper removal/tightening sequence as per the Honda Factory Service Manual and you'll be fine.

I just did mine about a month ago when I had the valve cover off for a valve adjustment.

Jmd471
12-11-2012, 02:41 PM
This sounds just like what I have run into. Did you ever find a definite solution to the leak?
No I haven't. I did the oil cooler and sender gaskets but no luck. It still appears that there is oil coming from above (new vc gasket as well). Realized last night that my oil fillet cap was missing a gasket, so will see once I replace that... Could be the culprit. It's hard to diagnose how much I lose vs burn at 170k, but would like it to be as sealed up as possible.

PreludeBB6
01-03-2013, 02:13 PM
For the Vtec solenoid gasket what is the difference between #13 and #15 in the illustration?

15815-PR3-004 "Filter Spool Valve" is #13 on the illustration and 15825-P13-005 " Filter Assy., Spool Valve" is #15 on the illustration.

I assume #15 is all i need to do this job?

mid9pitstop
01-16-2013, 06:51 PM
For the Vtec solenoid gasket what is the difference between #13 and #15 in the illustration?

15815-PR3-004 "Filter Spool Valve" is #13 on the illustration and 15825-P13-005 " Filter Assy., Spool Valve" is #15 on the illustration.

I assume #15 is all i need to do this job?

You are correct, you only need #15, which comes with #13. I just finished doing all the seals two weeks ago. Big thanks to the author of this writeup :top:

Good luck.

Droops
02-17-2013, 06:51 PM
Just started reading the first page great info. Gonna be a great read.

97hondaSS
03-10-2013, 09:47 AM
testing

Christian
06-15-2013, 07:29 PM
im ordering most of the first half of seals (minus the oil cooler one) and when i look up the part # on yourhondaparts.com for my 4th gen, the part # comes out as a part for a civic and stuff. is this the correct one? im assuming the reason this happens is because they use the same part? lol just dont wanna order the wrong part

Wing8806
06-18-2013, 04:10 PM
im ordering most of the first half of seals (minus the oil cooler one) and when i look up the part # on yourhondaparts.com for my 4th gen, the part # comes out as a part for a civic and stuff. is this the correct one? im assuming the reason this happens is because they use the same part? lol just dont wanna order the wrong part

www.hondaautomotiveparts.com



use that to match up the part numbers with whatever you're looking for

MommysLittleMonster
06-21-2013, 12:03 PM
I would suggest majestichonda.com over hondaautomotiveparts.com

Wing8806
06-25-2013, 10:48 AM
I would suggest majestichonda.com over hondaautomotiveparts.com


Aren't they both the same place?

and beat you to it :troll:


however another site would be www.hondapartsnow.com (http://www.hondapartsnow.com)


www.hondaautomotiveparts.com (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com)



use that to match up the part numbers with whatever you're looking for

superbeefy2050
06-30-2013, 06:09 PM
So question about putting the O-ring in. There are like two grooves, and outer and inner to put the ring back on. My old one fell out as soon as I disassembled it. Which groove does the ring sit in?

kisaku1218
07-05-2013, 09:03 PM
best of all!

High temp RTV? Hondabond or RTV RED?
Ultra Gray is high torque, Ultra Red is high temp (there is no 1000F above RTV in the market, I think RTV Red is 650F at max)

Apply every gasket with hondabond should be good? the oil pan seems pretty complicated.

Now my most important question, I do have support of professional garage, they have every tool I can imaging, so when I do timing belt, water pump, oil pump and all that good stuff, what engine sitting should be? should I drop it? or should I rise it?
Because if I did rise it, I might as well do the engine mount.

178000 mile and still add up, I had another honda over 400k and still pulling....to be honest if I change oil and get all the gasket right, do timing belt, that thing runs forever.

minilogoguy18
07-05-2013, 09:17 PM
Use hondabond or ultra gray, only use it where you're supposed to, only hacks or people who don't know what they're doing use it in conjunction with seals and o-rings.

Only time I ever jacked up an engine to do a timing belt was to get the motor mount bracket on the side of the engine off on cars where it is necessary and that was only on certain cars. Otherwise after removing the side mount the engine just hangs slightly without it.

Pro tip on Preludes/Accords, loosen the 2 bolts halfway out on the front part of the subframe to let the engine fall down a little extra, makes the lower timing cover practically fall out where it normally gets stuck in there.

You mentioned the oil pump, you could I guess do the seal on it, seen them leak on a little less than half the Honda's I've done t-belts on.

You should really only use liquid gasket where you're supposed to, I work at the dealer and have NEVER reinforced a gasket with rtv nor have I seen anyone I work with do it. As long as you are buying OEM gaskets/seals then you shouldn't worry about them so much. Aftermarket gaskets suck ass, especially oil pan and valve cover, they NEVER fit, usually too big.

Aftermarket water pumps are garbage also, they leak past the impeller shaft, the o-rings don't last and the impellers tend to corrode causing them to fall off inside the engine making the pump not move coolant.

SiccLude99
07-17-2013, 11:55 AM
When replacing the distributor o-ring, is it necessary to remove the rotor? Or can I just remove the 3 bolts to the shaft to get to the o-ring?

Wing8806
07-22-2013, 08:16 PM
When replacing the distributor o-ring, is it necessary to remove the rotor? Or can I just remove the 3 bolts to the shaft to get to the o-ring?


Just remove the entire distributor and swap the O-ring. You shouldn't need to remove the cap unless you're doing the seal around the cap.

kisaku1218
08-29-2013, 05:52 PM
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1f_2YAqGRuBElWNXMfeGE5OGxaHoWjBVg8YVsQl8wHUo/edit?usp=sharing


Just did a print out version, and so far I got all the part, just need to go to the DIY shop and start work on it.

I like to have a print out while I am doing the job, is way better than cellphone check it....

zonian91
10-03-2013, 04:56 PM
Great write up! Awesome information.

superduperscott
11-26-2013, 08:37 PM
This thread has been invaluable to me in my adventure with my new leaky 'lude! Slowly stopping them one at a time. hehe

jdm92lude
12-10-2013, 10:32 PM
i had my 92 h22a prelude sitting on the driveway for 10min to warm up b4 i went to school. when i got home. i noticed an alarming amount of oil on the driveway. id say a shot glass full.

now i checked the dip stick and it was below both dots. i topped the oil off an put cardboard under the engine. its been sitting for 2 hours(car off), and no oil has dripped anywhere. So if I turned the car on, I believe it would leak. ill let you know tomorrow. but what are these symptoms pointing to.

thanks

Wing8806
12-12-2013, 07:40 PM
i had my 92 h22a prelude sitting on the driveway for 10min to warm up b4 i went to school. when i got home. i noticed an alarming amount of oil on the driveway. id say a shot glass full.

now i checked the dip stick and it was below both dots. i topped the oil off an put cardboard under the engine. its been sitting for 2 hours(car off), and no oil has dripped anywhere. So if I turned the car on, I believe it would leak. ill let you know tomorrow. but what are these symptoms pointing to.

thanks

Buildup of oil pressure while the motor is running - which is normal. The oil will pass out through the weakest seal/point.

So you have a bad seal somewhere. What is the general area of the leak?

ds403
12-18-2013, 07:21 PM
I’ve already replaced the VTEC Solenoid Gasket, Distributor O-Ring, Valve Cover Gasket, Oil Cooler O-Ring, and, most recently, Cam Cap Seal. Many thanks to the author of this post! Unfortunately, I still have a leak on the passenger side. Oil appears at the bottom of the car at two places, between the transmission case and the engine block and below where transmission fluid is drained. It appears to originate below, what I think (I’m new at this), is the thermostat housing. It pours down the back side at the large bolt (shown in the picture), as if it was coming from the hole where the bolt is. The black hose in the picture is directly below the VTEC Solenoid. Any ideas? Is the oil coming through the cylinder head gasket? Front main seal? What is the bolt for?

https://imageshack.com/i/0mvffnj
https://imageshack.com/i/17br76j
https://imageshack.com/i/nf6l1sj

Wing8806
12-18-2013, 08:55 PM
Remove your flywheel cover/transmission brace (giant silver cover beneath the oil pan that connects to the transmission) If there is oil within the clutch housing via that hole - your rear main seal, or the small oil pan seal is leaking.


However - I see green beneath the transmission. It's possible you are leaking coolant and it's picking up leftover oil...


So first things first - clean the entire area with purple power or some other engine degreaser, any oil marks etc, and then try to locate the leak once again.

The thermostat housing is located on the side of the block, beneath the vtec solenoid - where the large radiator hose exits. (to clear your confusion)

nop
12-21-2013, 09:01 AM
Excelent post, it helped to solve the o-ring leak.

Thanks

ds403
12-21-2013, 08:30 PM
Thanks Wing8806 for the guidance. I got serious with the cleaning yesterday. Removing the intake air duct helped get better access for cleaning.

Also, I went ahead and removed the transmission brace (or center beam as referred to in the manual) and flywheel cover (or engine stiffener as referred to in the manual) and took pictures. Clearly there is oil on the inside.
https://imageshack.com/i/jwnuc2j
https://imageshack.com/i/1nc8wpj
https://imageshack.com/i/0tczzlj

After cleaning, I ran the car and found oil draining off the upper part of the VTEC solenoid. That appears to be the major source of oil. Below is a picture taken with UV light that picked up the dye in the oil. Either I did a poor job replacing the VTEC solenoid gasket or the VTEC solenoid base gasket is the problem (36172-P08-015; it’s #17 on the first diagram of this post).
https://imageshack.com/i/nsd0oqj

I also saw a small amount of fresh oil on the flywheel and on the oil pan next to the flywheel. Do you think this oil is from the rear main seal?
https://imageshack.com/i/5h3w5oj
https://imageshack.com/i/fkx046j

Wing8806
12-22-2013, 07:23 PM
Have you replaced your cam plug seal?

Also, sometimes the bolts holding the vtec solenoid get worn to the point of not making a good seal. I had that issue after replacing mine.

The oil around the flywheel could be as I mentioned, the rear main or the small oil pan seal. It's hard to determine which.... Oil pan seal is the easier of the two to replace.

ds403
12-26-2013, 09:23 PM
Have you replaced your cam plug seal?

Also, sometimes the bolts holding the vtec solenoid get worn to the point of not making a good seal. I had that issue after replacing mine.

The oil around the flywheel could be as I mentioned, the rear main or the small oil pan seal. It's hard to determine which.... Oil pan seal is the easier of the two to replace.

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I replaced the cam plug a couple weeks ago. Plug one leak and another pops up. :x Today I removed the vtec solenoid and then took it apart with the intent of quickly replacing the internal vtec solenoid seal. As it turns out, the valve plunger was stuck in the down position and the entire inside was black. After fiddling with it for 2 hours, I managed to get it freed up, cleaned up and functioning again (I think). No telling how long its been out of commission. That fixed the gusher of an oil leak.

I still notice oil on the flywheel and oil pan. I had kinda hoped that leak would just go away. :) Most of this oil appears well after the engine is shut off. From the first picture below, it looks like some of the oil on the flywheel is above the top of the oil pan. Would that be a good indication that it's the rear main and not the oil pan?
https://imageshack.com/i/172rkzj
https://imageshack.com/i/f7qpx6j

MommysLittleMonster
12-27-2013, 08:57 AM
I still notice oil on the flywheel and oil pan. I had kinda hoped that leak would just go away. :) Most of this oil appears well after the engine is shut off. From the first picture below, it looks like some of the oil on the flywheel is above the top of the oil pan. Would that be a good indication that it's the rear main and not the oil pan?
https://imageshack.com/i/172rkzj
https://imageshack.com/i/f7qpx6j
Clean the entire area off with brake cleaner so there is no residual oil. Drive the car around the block, and check under it again. If it's the oil pan, you should see oil around the edges where it meets the block. If it's the rear main seal, you should be able to see the oil dripping out of the little "vent" hole at the bottom of where the transmission meets the block.

ds403
12-29-2013, 01:52 PM
Clean the entire area off with brake cleaner so there is no residual oil. Drive the car around the block, and check under it again. If it's the oil pan, you should see oil around the edges where it meets the block. If it's the rear main seal, you should be able to see the oil dripping out of the little "vent" hole at the bottom of where the transmission meets the block.

Thanks…never noticed the hole in the flywheel cover. Obviously the oil on the flywheel would end up draining out of the hole. I took it for a spin anyway. It’s nice having the vtec again. Just a few drops of oil from rear main after a 15 minute drive. Looks like a lot of work to replace it for a small gain. But, at 170K miles, my clutch is probably due for a replacement. Tie rod ends and steering rack boots are torn and could use replacing while I’m at it. I have zero experience at this, but I’m going to give it a go (my family thinks I’m nuts). After some research, the plan is go with the following. Any comments/advice will be appreciated.
o OEM Rear Main Seal (91214-PLE-003)
o OEM Clutch Release Bearing (22810-P21-003)
o Exedy standard OE replacement clutch kit (ebay ~$106)
o 4 Tie Rod ends (ebay ~$43)
o Steering rack boots (ebay ~$12)

Wing8806
12-29-2013, 07:41 PM
Thanks…never noticed the hole in the flywheel cover. Obviously the oil on the flywheel would end up draining out of the hole. I took it for a spin anyway. It’s nice having the vtec again. Just a few drops of oil from rear main after a 15 minute drive. Looks like a lot of work to replace it for a small gain. But, at 170K miles, my clutch is probably due for a replacement. Tie rod ends and steering rack boots are torn and could use replacing while I’m at it. I have zero experience at this, but I’m going to give it a go (my family thinks I’m nuts). After some research, the plan is go with the following. Any comments/advice will be appreciated.
o OEM Rear Main Seal (91214-PLE-003)
o OEM Clutch Release Bearing (22810-P21-003)
o Exedy standard OE replacement clutch kit (ebay ~$106)
o 4 Tie Rod ends (ebay ~$43)
o Steering rack boots (ebay ~$12)

You only need (2) tie rod ends. One drivers and one passengers on the steering rack. And clamps for the steering rack boots.

Don't forget oil and a filter for an oil change, a little rtv for around the rear main as the manual suggests too. As well as a new master cylinder, slave cylinder, grease for the clutch release bearing and brake fluid for the new clutch.

Dropping the transmission to do a clutch job and rear main isn't that hard of a task. It's best to have help though. The transmission isn't exactly light and you can easily hurt yourself.

Take your time and follow the writeups on this site as well as the HELMS. Bleeding the clutch will be a pain without a bleeder too.

After replacing the tie rod ends, it's always recommended to have an alignment done.

Shimee
12-29-2013, 08:14 PM
Get some 1/4" Tygon tubing from a hardware store and you can bleed the clutch/brakes on your own.

Wing8806
12-29-2013, 08:21 PM
Get some 1/4" Tygon tubing from a hardware store and you can bleed the clutch/brakes on your own.

It's a pain when air gets in the lines, though.

95preludese
01-11-2014, 10:06 AM
I just noticed that my 95 Prelude SE has a puddle of oil leaked out, on the driver's side. Not sure what it could be. The oil, transmission fluid have oil on the dip sticks. I wonder if the extreme cold weather we has this week had something to do with it. It's been sitting in the garage all week. I only used it once.

ZombieSoldier
01-16-2014, 06:59 AM
Great thread, thank you!

MommysLittleMonster
01-21-2014, 08:15 AM
Great thread, thank you!
No problem. :emthup:

ds403
02-03-2014, 09:52 PM
Sticking points:
• Removing the axle from the hub. Mine were stuck on both sides. I managed to tie them up semi out of the way and got the transmission out anyway. Later I was able to pound one out with my newly arrived 4lb orange rubber mallet.
• Physically removing the transmission. I was afraid it would drop on the floor…so I built an adaptor for my jack. :crazy: I just wasn’t expecting having to solve an 80lb rubik’s cube.
• Removing the rear main seal…that did not want to come out. I had to take the plate off and use a chisel on the seal
• Physically installing the transmission… double the effort!
• Getting the passenger side drive shaft back in the transmission… used the orange mallet on it
• Getting the three bolts back in the bearing support…there are two types of bolts (Dowel and Flange) and I didn’t recognize that until I had stripped part of the threads out of one.
• Bleeding a defective set of master and slave cylinders. I wore a path on the garage floor walking between the clutch pedal and the slave cylinder trying to bleed air out of the system. :-x I fixed it finally after buying and installing a different set. Note the master cylinder has a not so obvious Allen wrench socket…tighten that before installing or you’ll have a leak.

Right or wrong I didn’t drain the oil or remove the oil pan. Also I put the seal on the plate and then installed the plate a seal together.

So far no oil leaks under the car. I did notice some oil under the distributor cap. Next task it to replace the inner shaft seal (BH3888-E0) to fix an internal distributor oil leak.

Thanks again for all the suggestions. I wouldn’t have attempted this without the wealth of information on this website.

Shimee
02-14-2014, 10:21 AM
Just a tiny bit of info for those who can't do something themselves due to time, money, inclement weather, etc.

Getting a garage to replace the oil cooler seals is approximately a $200 on average. I was hoping my seal would last until spring but I had to get it done at a shop since it burst the other day and I wasn't going to be doing any car work in 0° weather.

STL_prelude
02-14-2014, 01:00 PM
Just a tiny bit of info for those who can't do something themselves due to time, money, inclement weather, etc.

Getting a garage to replace the oil cooler seals is approximately a $200 on average. I was hoping my seal would last until spring but I had to get it done at a shop since it burst the other day and I wasn't going to be doing any car work in 0° weather.

thats quite a bit to replace ONE seal. but when you have no choice ...

Shimee
02-14-2014, 02:10 PM
There's two seals on the SH I believe, and with the lack of room back there I was expecting the labor to be much more.